The Tranny shifted fine, I removed it when I tore the Truck down to do a frame up
I've racked my brain on this, looked at every reference I can find and unless you removed you cross shaft it has to be in the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing area

 

I did not remove the clutch shaft and I didnt think you did either. The clutch pedal has full travel, it goes down to the floor and all the way back up to the rubber bumper. I have a brand new return spring installed too.

With the inspection cover off the throw out bearing moves when the clutch pedal is pressed. At no time does the throw out bearing stop while the clutch pedal is still moving. Nothing seems to be binding, when you press the clutch pedal it feels nice and smooth.

When the clutch pedal is not pressed the throwout bearing is right by the fingers but not pressing on them because I can still spin the throwout bearing. So I think that adjustment is correct according to earlier posts.

When the clutch pedal is pressed the throwout bearing pushes on the fingers and they move too. Everything seems to be working fine.

The truck is not wired at this time, I am hoping by the end of the weekend it will be up and running.

The only remaining problem is that while in gear and the cl,utch pedal pressed in the truck does not roll like it is in neutral.

 

Found these threads where folks are haveing different clutch problems - Maybe you can garner some info that will help us all understand whats up

clutch adjustment dilemma-update - The Ford Barn

8ba clutch - The Ford Barn

8ba/8rt Flywheel and Clutch Help Needed - The Ford Barn

8rt Clutch - The Ford Barn

 

Thanks Dick!!!!!

Going to read them now!

 

Found this quote in article 1 "Richard, another problem those thick clutches cause is they wont fully release even with the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor"


Thats exactly my problem, I just hope when I push the clutch pedal in I can put the truck in gear. Those threads were very helpful and it seems like my clutch/ pressure plate from LMC, I said Dennis Carpenter in an earlier post but I was mistaken, may be the culprit of my clevis adjustment. The article states that aftermarket clutches may have a thicker disc and that clevis adjustment could become a problem. I have my throwout bearing adjusted just like the articles say to, less than an 1/8" clearance from throwout bearing to clutch fingers.

The clutch was labeled high performance 11" clutch kit. It came with the pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool. I also bought a new throwout bearing hub while I was at it.

I guess my last question would be.....when your clutch pedal is fully pushed down and the clutch is disengaged what position is your equalizer arm that connects to the clevis? Earlier we said when the clutch pedal is not pushed in the arm is at about the 11 oclock position, when the pedal is fully pushed down to the floor is the arm at the 12oclock position or 1 oclock position?

Thanks soooo much everyone for trying to help me, you have all had great suggestions and I wish I could do something for all of you!

I just want to make sure I am getting full travel of the clutch rod.

 

When this is figured out there needs to be something written up about the problem and the fix
Are the fingers on the pressure you got adjustable? - There are two reasons
One - some that are adjustable have the fingures adjusted improperly or unevenly
Two - The pressure plates that don't adjust have a high spot on the tips where the throwout bearing rides that are two high
Three - There are some throw out bearings that have a lip around the inner surface that sticks out and interferes with the fingers on the plate
These might be covered in the articles I posted or might require some more digging.

 

A too-thick disc would put the clutch fingers further forward, which is the opposite of your problem with the clevis. If the PP is "remanufactured" the surface of the PP may have been cut too many times/too much.

I've looked everywhere and can't find any specs for height of the clutch fingers, but a clutch shop would undoubtedly have the specs.

For now at least, I'd adjust so the RB is real close to the fingers, so you get as much clutch disengagement as possible. RB's are cheaper than gear teeth! Just make sure the RB won't hit the PP cover at full disengagement.

 

My pressure plate fingers are adjustable, I think they can be adjusted through the inspection cover but I havent tried yet, I was going to get the truck running and see if it will go into gear and shift.

I must have had a brain fart, I know pp is pressure plate but what is RB?

 

Release bearing same same throwout bearing
Release is the technical name somewhere - I just learned it a few years ago - I didn't know that I had been putting the wrong part in

 

Sorry, I'm too lazy to type that stuff out!

I don't know if I'd try adjusting the fingers thru the inspection plate, above all they need to be equal height. You can judge if they are by PP wobble, but those bolts are also very hard to move. Maybe go one flat at a time?

 

If I need to go that route I will pull the trans and pp and go from there. Not sure if this matters but the box says all the parts are new and not remanufactured.

I will keep you guys posted, thanks again!

 

I you do decide to try adjusting thru the inspection hole be sure to Ty a piece of string around the wrench - That way when you drop it inside you can pull it back out - Not my idea but I could've used it about 30 years ago

 

Hahaha great advice! I could easily see myself dropping the wrench! If the truck won't go in gear while running I will pull the trans and try to fix it the right way. The short easy fixes never work for me!

 

I'm 99% sure if you adjust the fingers, you would do it with the clutch completely assembled to the flywheel.

 

Makes sense, it would be easier to do all assembled but with the trans out much easier to access and take clearance measurements