I will be going down to the garage shortly to check things out but in your first picture your key on the clutch tube is almost parallel to the ground, not quite at the 3 and 9 position but closer to 4 and 10. I am almost positive mine is at a completely different angle. That is what leads me to believe my fork is on the shaft incorrectly.

Your second picture leads me to believe I have a second problem. The clutch fork fingers are completely smooth on the side closest to the transmission and slightly curved on the side that touches the throw out bearing hub. I am pretty sure mine is the opposite way.

What do you reccomend I use if that 1/4" pin is obsolete, a small bolt and lock nut with some loctite maybe?

Thanks again, you are my savior, I hope thats the problem!

 

Note that in the first pic, the spring is pulling the release bearing all the way back to the trans, if installed in the truck it would be forward some more, just clear of the clutch. So the key would be almost horizontal.

You can buy 1/4" hardened steel pins at many hardware stores. If you end up having to pull the fork, measure the old pin carefully. A Grade 8 bolt wouldn't be bad, but it needs to be a real tight fit. You can likely re-use the old pin if you don't destroy it getting it out.

 

Well just came back up and I was wrong, it appears the angle of my key is almost the same as the one in your picture. So maybe the clutch fork shaft is in correctly. It looks like my fork is also on the correct way.

At this point I am even more lost.

With this inspection cover off I can see the throwour bearing move towards the clutch fingers. How much is normal for the throwout bearing to move from its rested position against the trans (I have the equalizer tube disconnected again) before it contacts the fingers? Mine is moving about 5/8".

Now I understand this slop can be taken up with the clevis but I am just checking to make sure thats normal.

Back to 48tl8fords pictures, his third picture shows his equalizer tube arm that connects to the clevis about at the 11 oclock position, I can get mine to that same exact place but my clevis is adjusted WAY more than his.

This is just not adding up!

 

Here's a pic of my equalizer. The key on the clutch fork shaft is nearly horizontal. The arm where the clevis attaches is about 20 deg towards the rear.

 

Same as mine, only difference is my threaded rod is about an inch further in the clevis than yours.

Thank you so much for the pictures!!!

Why do you think mine needs adjusted so much more?

 

A different clevis, maybe? Do you have clevises on both ends of the adjusting rod?

 

Just a point of reference - if you ever find it necessary to remove the fork from the shaft, I've found that the simplest way to reinstall it without dinking with that stupid pin is in fact to use a bolt, but not just a through-bolt with a nut. I align the fork on the shaft in it's proper position so that the original pin holes line up and then I redrill and tap all the way through both parts for a 5/16" fine thread bolt. Install grade 8 bolt with a little blue Loctite and you're good to go. No hassle with trying to peen the pin in place and it's easily removeable for future service.

 

Albuq,

Its hard to say what someone has done over the past 60 years. However with my old column shifted 3 speed the clevis was adjusted about where yours is now. It only needed adjusted so far in when I put the floor mounted shift trans in. Thats why I was thinking something was up with the new trans.

I do not had a clevis on both ends, 1 end has a hole that fits overtop the stud from the clutch pedal and a cotter pin through it. I never removed that from the clutch pedal end.

BOR, great advice! I am in the process of wiring the truck now so in a week or so I should have it ready to start and hopefully move.

Still not feeling good that while in gear and the clutch pedal pushed in it was hard to push. Time will tell.

 

I don't see how it can be the trans its self - I believe that there two release/throwout bearings that have been used in the flatheads - one is for the three finger clutch the other is for the other type (That the name just flew out of my head)

 

Diaphragm clutch, Dick. I hadn't heard there was a RB just for that? I'm using a diaphragm clutch with my old RB. It is not "completely" satisfactory, but it is very smooth. I think it needs more throw than a Long.

 

After racking my brain all day the only thing I can come up with is the pressure plate fingers are out of adjustment. Someone had suggested that earlier and I didnt put much thought into it but now I dont think anything else is left.

Can you adjust them with the inspection cover off? I am hoping not to pull the trans out but if I have to then I have to.

Either way, Im not even sure how to adjust them

 

Before you do that, can we review what you've got?

Is the key on your clutch shaft about horizontal?
Is the outboard end of your equalizer about 20 deg to the rear? Or is it further to the rear? Can you post some pics?

 

Im not sure how to post pictures but yes, my ear is about horizontal and my outboard end of my equalizer is about 20 degrees backwards. My setup looks exactly like yours minus the fact my threaded rod is adjusted way more into the clevis than yours.

I got the transmission from 4tl8ford and it came from his 48 panel van and I am almost positive he said he drove the van with that transmission and pulled it to put in a different one. Im pretty sure he didnt pull the clutch rod or fork out.

 

IMO you need to know if the clutch is operating correctly or not. If it is, the position of the clevis is irrelevant. Can you start the truck up and operate the clutch?
When you remove an old worn out clutch and install new parts, yes, the linkage will be in a different place.....

 

If the clutch shaft is as stated and the equalizer is too, I have to believe something is keeping the clutch pedal from returning all the way. Is there a return spring on the pedal?

I agree, Scott, ultimately what matters is whether the clutch works.