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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Engine Decision to make....

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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #61  
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They get you coming and going....
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 07:53 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Jeff and Nicolle
Got my 5.0 home today. gotta see if the front stuff is interchangeable between the 351W and 302. Timing cover, brackets and such. That would make life a little easier for me. The place I got it from, took the bracketry,alt,power steering pump. I guess that will cost ya more...
I'm thinking it won't interchange. The rebuilt parts are semi reasonable to purchase, so you might want to price them as opposed to buying them used.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #63  
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I gotta jump over to chat with the guys in the '95/96 truck forum. there are a few that have helped me out. Using this era of motor, they know quite a bit. I am really hoping I can still use the saginaw steering unit I bought.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 02:06 PM
  #64  
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It'll all fit, Jeff. The '95 truck brackets primarily bolt to the heads and the bolt pattern is the same. If memory serves, there is one water pump stud that goes through the power steering and A/C bracket. Since the deck height is different between the two motors, you'll find two holes in the bracket for that one - one for the 5.0L and one for the 5.8L. Only one of them will line up. You'll see what I mean. You will need the 5.8L timing cover and water pump as the Explorer pieces are completely different. They will fit just fine.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 10:44 PM
  #65  
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5.0 update

I never learn...$500 for the motor. Tore it apart. took the heads to the machine shop, milled .006 and basic valve job. $267....Engine re-ring kit Northern Autoparts. $200....new oil pump...$20.something...parts washer tank craigslist $25. parts solvent $40.

Started today.
Checking new rings for end gap...should be no more than .020" I stopped checking at .030"
Piston to cylinder clearance...do I even need to say?

I gotta take it to the shop. She needs to be bored and I need to be shot..

Go ahead! I fully expect to be scolded on this one!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 03:14 AM
  #66  
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Yeah probably would have had the machinist that did up your heads run a bore mic up and down the cylinders of your block before you ordered the kit. WHOOPSIES! Hey- we've all done it man..

As for interchange the oil pan, harmonic balancer, flexplate/flywheel, intake manifold, oil pump, oil pump drive rod, distributor are about the only pieces that won't interchange between the 351W and the 302/289. Everything else will fit. BlueOvalRage is right. In the latter 70s they started using multi-engine fitting brackets that were drilled for use on several different engines, or at least within the engine families. Very commonplace from the 80s on up.

You keeping this thing EFI? If not, you'll need a front cover with provisions for a fuel pump and then ensure you have the eccentric on the face of the cam gear. Earlier pieces can be used in their place.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 09:24 AM
  #67  
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Jeff,

I believe you are still ok. You might check to see if Northern will swap out your kit for a different one. New pistons shouldn't cost too much. In the end, you will be very happy with your 302 selection.

PS

With all the costs you listed, my salvage yard 96 302 cost more and I haven't even tore into the engine yet.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 10:55 AM
  #68  
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Dano: Yes I am gonna run EFI.
Lance: I am pushing forward, and will call Northern Auto about it. But if they say no, I won't be surprised....my fault, not theirs.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 12:08 AM
  #69  
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I thought i would update this.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 12:10 AM
  #70  
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You can see more on my build thread link at the bottom of my signature line.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 07:04 AM
  #71  
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Jeff,

You are making really good progress. Thanks for the update.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 08:22 AM
  #72  
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No scolding necessary ,everyone gets overly optimistic sometimes . clean up the parts , put them back int the wrappers and boxes and take them back for an exchange . confirm with machinist appropriate oversize and undersize first . Surprises me that with that much slop in the bore you can still see the crosshatch . I must have missed it but how much ridge did you have to ream off the top of the bores ?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 08:59 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by oldmerc
No scolding necessary ,everyone gets overly optimistic sometimes . clean up the parts , put them back int the wrappers and boxes and take them back for an exchange . confirm with machinist appropriate oversize and undersize first . Surprises me that with that much slop in the bore you can still see the crosshatch . I must have missed it but how much ridge did you have to ream off the top of the bores ?
Oh I should have explained. I took it to the machine shop and didn't say it needed anything. I told them what I want, in the end.
It didn't need bored after all. They did all the necessary stuff and 3 weeks later,
back to the garage.
I don't know what I did. Maybe I was using the metric side of the feeler gauge? Anyway that's old news now..
 
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