I agree. I've been known to scab together engines myself. Well... you saw the 390 in my '56, right? That thing is in worse shape than your 351W and it runs pretty darn good. If there is no lip at the tip of the bores (not counting the carbon ring) and there is crosshatching still visable, you're in really good. Crank kits are no big deal. The only other high wear item i look at is the cam bearings. And since you're talking honing out yours, you'd probably want to vat it clean. For $75-100, the machine shop should vat the block/hardware and tins and install cam bearings for ya. The only other thing I can think of, machine-wise, would be balancing the rotating assembly. Some suggest to do it, some say its not necessary. As long as you're not changing the pistons, i think you'd be ok. If you are are going to replace the pistons (new-std bore) then it might be wise to balance the rotating assembly. Typical prices for balancing is around $150.

Do you know the milage that is on this engine/tranny by chance?

 

Once you find a machine shop check with them sometimes they will trade your 351 for a 302.... Doesn't hurt to ask... that is how a friend got a 289 for his Mustang... He took the engine into the shop to have it built (that he bought at a junk yard). He told the shop what he was looking for and they took him into a store room and showed him a 289 that they could trade with him and rebuild for him...

 

I wish i knew the mileage, the speedo was gone. I do have the computer that was with the truck...I wonder if that can be read? No matter now I guess.
I won't change the pistons unless it would need bored, which I am doubting now since the original x-hatching is visible. The pistons look good except they are a little carboned/oiled up. but not much at all. And I have done the crank kit route before. Thanks Dano!

 

That's a good thought as well Moe. I did that with a set of heads once. I took them in for an inspection, and they showed me how loose the guides were, they said we can rebuild these or we have a set ready to go, same price. I took the heads ready to go! Well I will make some calls tomorrow and see what happens.

 

At this point you are only into it $175. If you really want the 302 now is the best time to do it. Put the money into the motor you want. Sell this one or like others have suggested, see if you can find someone that wants to trade.

 

Another thought too. Alot of times machine shops build up and engine for a customer and they never come back to pay the bill. These engines are usually for sale at only what is owed on the bill. And in some cases the machinist can make changes to these engines to beeter suit they needs of your vehicle. I know my guy has to do this from time to time when he gets a deadbeat customer. Might be something to look into aswell, could get a rebuilt engine cheap...

 

Jeff, I vote for the crank kit and a set of rings, too. Maybe a little more expense than you'd planned on, but at least you'd know what you have when you got done. Any other used engine is just going to be another question mark.

 

Jeff,

At Neal Autoparts Salvage yard in Peoria (1-800-548-2138), they have a 302 out of a 1996 Ford Explorer for $500. I like 1996 ford explorer motors because they have the GT40 heads which flow much better than the E7 heads. Further, the motor is stated to have 119,000 miles.


If you choose to go with the 351, that is a great choice too! Just thought I would pass the information along.

Lance

 

I bought a used 85 302 for my 49 F-1 that I heard run and it sounded fine, but I wanted to be sure it was good so I took it to a local machine shop late last year. As it turned out, this was a very high mileage engine and it needed a rebuild. The crank was reground .010 under and new main and rod bearings were installed. The block was bored .030 over and new flat top pistons and rings were installed. It got a new RV cam, cam bearings and lifters, a new high volume oil pump, timing chain and gears, and the heads were shaved and rebuilt to bring compression up to 9 to 1. The total cost was $1140 which I thought was reasonable. I also bought an HEI distributor, a new oil pan, a Summit aluminum 4bbl intake, a rebuilt Edelbrock 600 carburetor, a new starter and a new waterpump for less than an additional $500. Since you already have the engine, I'd stick with it but with only $175 in the engine you could just start over with a 302...

 

Lance, thanks for the help! I have bought motors from them before. They are the most reputable place around here. Usually their prices reflect that. But they are GOOD people to work with. I am going to stop by and check this out. I use to get a better deal from them through one of the guys there, but it's been since 1995 since I bought from them. He probably won't even remember me! He does still work there though. Where did you see $500 ? I went to the search and saw $630 ?

 

Jeff,

This is off topic for this forum, but my father is in the process of building a 1932 3 Window Coupe. I purchased him a 1996 Explorer engine (100,000 miles) from the Y-yard in Effingham. I am going to take the engine apart to have the block tanked, get a 3 angle valve job, and hone the cylinder. I will then put it back together with new bearing, rings, and cam. I fully expect this engine to make around 300 hp and achieve close to 20 mpgs which will make for a great engine for my father.

Last month, I built a 331 stroker motor for a friend to put in his 1967 Mustang. He's got it back in the car and tearing up the roads already.


Lance

P.S. I found the engine on www.car-part.com

1996
Engine
Ford Explorer

ran good 119,000

A 00019753 $500

Neal Auto Parts USA-IL(Peoria) E-mail 1-800-548-2138

 

With gas doing the climb again, I am not sure what way to go, but smaller sounds good right now!
Also the 302 EFI is more common and better looking IMHO.
And better support on the web, although the 351W EFI is similar.

I did buy a different oil pan and oil pick up tube for the 351W to fit the JAG IFS...that was $100 bucks.

How much difference in mileage do you guys think there will be?

Sorry, I am still on the top of the fence.

I am not really looking to build a drag truck. Just something that runs nice and does the job.

I keep thinking about how distinct the sound of a 5.0 in a mustang sounds. You can tell it's a Stang without even looking...

Just rambling...thanks guys

 

I can only speak regarding the engines in trucks, and a mustang, but I have gotten 21 mpg as an average hand calculated mileage in my 1989 f150 with 3.08 gearsa and a 5 speed. That was about 6ish ears ago when I last drove it out to the drilling company I was working for. Back when I was a teenager and drove the truck nice it got even better then that!

The mustang got 23-26 mpg depending if you could keep your foot off of the floor.

The last 351w my dad had was brutal on gas. That was back in the early 90's, but it never got over 15mpg. (he sold that thing and traded for a diesel and never looked back to gas)

 

Hey Jeff check out this little 302 on youtube,maybe this will help you decide. I am building the same motor and I am hopeful I will have the same TUNE. 1992mustang trickflow stage1 cam youtube. It sounds like a sweet sewing machine.LOL

 

Well Gentleman, I want to thank you for all your input.

I bought the 5.0 that Lance Hogan brought to my attention.

Now I got some stuff to look into.

I am still going to run EFI. But now it's a little less mind boggling to figure out

and it should be a little better on fuel.

This is what I really wanted in the beginning, hope I didn't let anybody down!

You freakin' GEARHEADS !!!!