I'm deep into gathering needed stuff for a '48 F1 I am building, and am at the engine buying stage. I know I'm going to stay with either a 302/351W V8 or maybe a 351C V8. I have come across a pair of the "C" motors, one complete 2 bolt/2barrel, and the accompanying one a short block, but 4 bolt main. What are the "C" motors worth these days in rebuildable state? I'm pretty aware of the 302/351W stuff, and the 460 V8s but with the rarity of the "C" motors, I'm wondering if that is worth the trouble. I also am aware that the C motor can be made to put out a lot of torque and hp, but the F1 will be a driver that I hope to keep reasonably efficient, and still have a bit of zip to it. Any thoughts and suggestions would be most welcome.

Robert in Spokane.

 

Are you sure that they are rebuildable? It is risky to bore a 351C over +0.030", if they have ever been bored, then I wouldn't go for them.
My chioce if I was to start a new motor project would be a 4.6 Cobra, or 5.4 Lightning motor. I run a highly modified ford 400 in my '53, but it would be a real squeeze to get that into an F1.
I think that an EFI 351W, would give you the economy and power that you want.

 

Danlee,

Thanks for you input. I am going to stay "old school" on this F1 as I already have good carburetors, distributors, etc. The cost of EFI gets up there enough that it would take a long time to pay for the cost difference. I am curious about the bore limit being .030 though for the "C" engines. Two different machine shops I've talked with say that the .030 limit is for the 302, and the 351W engines, while the "C" can be bored realiably to .060" Guess I'll do some more checking. I did run across an EFI 351 via an ad I ran in the last two days. The seller says that it is all there, and runs well. I'll see.....
Price seemed ok at $450. It will depend on the condition of course.

Thanks again

Robert in Spokane

 

keep a eye on your local paper, i waited for awhile and found a 72 f100 with a 302, fmx trans for my 49f1. the 72 also has a good 9 inch rear end that will be put in my 49 also. all for 600 dollors and runs good too. good deals are out there if you look and wait. good luck on your truck

 

I'll double check my source on that bore information and post it here.
The EFI 351W will give you good power and reasonable gas mileage. At $450.00 for a running motor sounds like a good deal, if it is in good condition.

 

Here are the words of an expert from the 351C Yahoo group.

"Boring a 351C more than .030 without a sonic check is risky, 302s are
risky too. All thin wall Ford castings are at risk from core shift.
Factor in 35 years of neglect, lack of coolant, repeated overheating,
and any block can be a crap shoot.

Some blocks can be bored a lot but the one who says ANY 351C can be
safely bored to .060 without a sonic check is living in a fantasy.
Maybe if we get some new aftermarket blocks that fantasy can come true."

The problem that I see for you is that if you buy a previously rebuilt 351C block, and take it to a shop. They will cook it and clean it and check the dimensions. When they find that it has been previously bored, they should recommend a sonic check to see if it can be bored more. If it passes the sonic check, then you are OK, but if it doesn't, you have spent $, for nothing. If they don't recommend a sonic check and bore it, Then you at risk of cylinder wall failure at some time in the future after you have spent $$$.

My recommendation is: Do not purchase ANY motor with the intention of rebuilding it unless you are sure it has not been bored already. A motor that has been rebuilt and is in running condition is OK.

 

I run a 351C in my daily driver 56. I have put about 12,000 hard miles on it, with some street racing and drag racing mixed into the back-and-forth-to-work driving. It produces great horsepower and has been very reliable and fun to drive.

It recently broke an intake valve spring and I decided to have the engine "freshened up". I chose to have it all balanced and to match port the mainifolds to work better with the Comp Cam that is in it. The shop told me it was already .060 over bore. It only needed to have the cylinders roughened. They did the sonic check and the block was OK. They gave a one year warranty on the rebuild.

My truck came with a 351C in it, which is why I stayed with it, but if I was to spec an engine again, I might want to go with the 351W. They can easily build comparable hp and "pretty parts", including serpentine, chrome and billet stuff is very available, while aftermarket goodies for the 351C are very hard to find (other than manifolds, dizzies, etc).

If you're not a racer, the 302 is a great choice as it has considerably more hp than the stock engine ever did and will certainly get you around town and down the highway nicely with decent mileage.

 

I'm with Randy, I have had Clevelands in 4 different rods and I love 'em

 

I am not putting the Cleveland down. It certainly is a great motor, but good blocks are getting scarce, and there is a lot more available for the Windsor motors.

Some of that may be about to change. There are aluminum heads available from several sources right now for the 351C, and there is talk of a new alloy block with 4 bolt mains, siamese cylinders that can be bored to 4.155", and other upgrades. This may be expensive, but it will bring new life to the Cleveland motor.

 

I've had them both, and a few 351M's(puke) and the 351W is the best all-round street engine. The C will make more power at revs, but not as much torque, and torque is what you want on the street. Plus you can build several W's for the cost of one C.

 

Wow... thanks for all the good info guys. The Cleveland is one engine I've never fiddled with. Built several 302s, a couple of 460s, even one 427, but am pretty unaware of the "C" motors. The restorers of Mustangs and Cougars do like 'em though of course. I did find a crate 302HO available locally, and if that works out, I'll probably go that route. Depends on the $ amount. One local wrecking yard has a complete 302HO in a low mileage Mustang that they are pricing at $850 without the EFI. I haven't looked it over yet, and don't know if that can be fitted with a distributor ignition or not. I do plan on a carb and Edelbrock manifold if that engine is a go. The idea is to get something reliable, and not priced out of my budget.

Thanks again for all the help. I'll post what happens in a few days. Need to get this engine issue settled, and get back to building the truck!!