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As for the "Factory" transmission temp gauge, it is a glorified "idiot" light as its response is severely dampened. The panel gage will show the temp as fully warmed up at 50 *F. Between 100-220*F the needle will remain in the same position on the gauge. At 230*F it will move up slightly to the middle of the normal range. At 250*F it will move to Yellow. The gauge moves to red at 280*F. This is supported on page 36 of the OBDII Theory and Operations manual. The tow/haul light will flash at 275*F.
Over 220*F is really too hot for continuous service - most likely something is not right when you see temps continuously this high. Never exceed 250*F for more than 30 minutes. The fluid can get to 300*F for a SHORT time w/o any damage (however a measured temp of 250*F could actually mean that some areas and parts may already be as high as 300).
Engine temperature is not the only parameter that the PCM monitors to determine cooling fan operation. This is the reason that you will see some variation in engine temperature as it correlates to fan operation. The operation/description of the FSS (Fan Speed Sensor) from the PC/ED manual has a fairly good explanation as to how the system "thinks". This is not your traditional engine hits temp X and the fan clutch locks up. The fan speed sensor is a Hall-Effect sensor integral to the vistronic drive fan (VDF). The powertrain control module (PCM) will monitor sensor inputs and control the VDF speed based upon engine coolant temperature (ECT), transmission fluid temperature (TFT) and intake air temperature (IAT) requirements. When an increase in fan speed for vehicle cooling is requested, the PCM will monitor the FSS signal and output the required pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to a fluid port valve within the VDF. Engine begins to defuel at 221*F. The thermostat begins to open at about 190*F to 195*F and is not fully open until about 215*F to 219*F.
OK, here is the result. The mechanic tried it on the road with the camper and pushed it and he could not find anything wrong, he had the computor plugged in and says may EOT and ECT was all well within operating range, he checked everything, nothing wrong. He says maybe my scangauge was at fault. He did not say what was the EOT temps but the computor was showing all good,
He did not charge anything, thanks to Gilmore Ford, yes there are some good dealer. I am heading south now and I will try to re-enter the codes in the scangauge.
Thanks, I was happy he told me everything was OK, but on another note, how come it is OK..... My delta is still in the 20. Well, he test droved it, tried to reproduce a problem, there was no codes at all, could not find any discrepencies, sometimes, you have to believe.
I am not sure. I am sure he was using equipment just for the truck. Again under a load (you said you had the camper on yet, and he was getting on it pretty good) that delta is not that bad. That 15* delta is just a warning that the oil cooler may be going bad, and I am sure their is discrepancies. If he said it was ok, he either didn't want to work on it, or it is ok!
I am not convinced also that there is no problem, i will watch things closely. May be I will ask another advice down the road from another Ford Dealer.
I am not convinced also that there is no problem, i will watch things closely. May be I will ask another advice down the road from another Ford Dealer.
Could the Gauge Be OFF that your using
how are the temps after a cold soak are they the same
I still dont think the 15* spread applies as much when your pullen/haulen a load
that 15* is for an unloaded truck
Hit the road, don't look back, that is what I did today. 75 to 80 MPH pulling the rigs, ETC stayed at 190, EOT between 215 to 220, may be this is my new readings. Just wonder what happen after my coolant and T Stat change. The old coolant was pretty clear, no scale or dirt came out of the engine, will never know.
When I go back home, if I get there, I will try a back flush, maybe with VC9. Maybe I will think of changing the oil cooler and EGR before my trip to Alaska. This trip is a 12000 miles one, so do not want to be scared all the way up there.
Hit the road, don't look back, that is what I did today. 75 to 80 MPH pulling the rigs, ETC stayed at 190, EOT between 215 to 220, may be this is my new readings. Just wonder what happen after my coolant and T Stat change. The old coolant was pretty clear, no scale or dirt came out of the engine, will never know.
When I go back home, if I get there, I will try a back flush, maybe with VC9. Maybe I will think of changing the oil cooler and EGR before my trip to Alaska. This trip is a 12000 miles one, so do not want to be scared all the way up there.
If you travel down I-59 in MS between Meridian and Slidell and have problems PM me and I may be able to help. Good Mech in Ellisville,Ms and Hattiesburg ms. God speed on your trip
Eagleinms
If you travel down I-59 in MS between Meridian and Slidell and have problems PM me and I may be able to help. Good Mech in Ellisville,Ms and Hattiesburg ms. God speed on your trip
Eagleinms
Thanks, this is not far from where I am right now. I will be on the road in a week or so.
I entered the new numbers in the Scg II and will see what happen. Yesterday my EOT was at 206, but I was very gentle on the pedal. ECT is allways around 188, 190.
Thanks, this is not far from where I am right now. I will be on the road in a week or so.
I entered the new numbers in the Scg II and will see what happen. Yesterday my EOT was at 206, but I was very gentle on the pedal. ECT is allways around 188, 190.
Can they do the oil cooler and EGR cooler?
The guy in Ellisville can but you can expect a day or two wait. Not many good 6.0 mech's in this area. He did my EGR delete and have had no problems. Good Christian guy. Just off I-59 at exit 86.
Hope everything keeps going and good luck.
God Bless & Godspeed
Eagleinms
So whats the deal with those coolant flush machines? Couldnt you flush all the coolant out and replace it with distilled water, then drain your system, put in restore and top off with distilled water, run for 3 hours, then hook the flush machine back up, flush with tons of distilled water till clear, then replace water in system with elc?
I did flush it a couple time, but not with a cleaner, just straight distilled water. The problem started after the flush. Many people on the forum did not have googd result with VC9, they plugged their cooler, so this is why I did not want to disturb anything. Do not know what happened.
Right now, my EOT keeps between 210 and 215 crussing, never over 222, so it should not damage the bearings and engine. Maybe it could be bad on the EGR cooler if not enough coolant goes through, but how can you tell there is no coolant going to the EGR cooler. The EGR would work hard if you have the truck work hard I thinK, but if you keep it easy on the pedal, it should not go all that hot, I think
I did not loose any coolant yet and nothing blew out of the coolant pressure cap.
OK, I tried it empty and same 18 to 20 difference on highway, no wind, just cruising.
I saw a guy here in Bay St-Louis, Missisipi, near New Orleans, Lakeshore automotive, with a few Fords diesels in the garage, he charge $1800 for the oil cooler upgraded OEM, egr cooler bullet proof and gasket. He says he also reprogram the engine to spec. He said he would not do the intake stud because he has to lift the cab. He has a few different years Ford diesel trucks in the garage and outside waiting to get worked on.
I have to phone another guy in Toronto, but this is 1600 miles away, it would be better for me for Warranty. And maybe the guy up in Missisipi. As for Powerstrokehelp, don t know but looks strange..
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