IMO you have high pressure oil leak (likely), failed pump (unlikely) or a bad ipr valve (maybe).

 

Haven't had time to work on it much, the water quit in the corral with 100 calves in it, that took preference. Heading to town to get an adapter to put air into the ICP port, and I'm praying it isn't branch tubes. I've done the stc and the o-rings, and it runs good once you get it started, it happened suddenly so I don't think it's the hpop, but I would rather it be the pump than the tubes.
I'm replacing the engine in my son in laws '06 Dodge, and I can see why folks rave about the Cummins. Everything is just so simple and easy to get at...

 

I woud pull the IPR valve since you have already done the STC fitting, dummyplugs and standpipes.

 

Ok, I put air to it last night, and heard it hissing out of the drivers side valve cover. Pulled the cover, used a piece of 1" hydraulic hose as a stethoscope, and it was coming from the standpipe. Pulled it off and the o-ring was broken. I just changed them, so I figure I must have got them on wrong place or something.
I tried commanding ithe IPR open and closed and at different percentages, and it never made any difference in the air coming out, is that normal? I changed the screen on it a year ago when I did the STC fitting and am fanatical about oil changes etc, I wonder if it's ok?

 

You might try putting 12V directly to the valve instead of using AE and see if that makes a difference. I was thinking that I commanded ICP or IPR to 0 and it killed the truck but I don't know if it will totally shut off the HPO system. I would still pull the IPR and check the screen.

 

I thought a new IPR would be +$500 since the ICP sensor was $180, but it was only $279 so I just bought a new one. Building a socket right now to get it off without pulling the turbo. No good tool stores around here, all I could find was a 25 pound impact socket with half inch walls, so I've been grinding and torching quite a bit - it won't fit between the HPOP cover and the valve.
I went to town and got a new standpipe today...the dealer had 3 when I phoned yesterday morning and was out today. He said the tech was doing a 6.0 and had them all. I told him the tech didn't need 3 of them, go talk him out of one. He did, and gave it to me for free! That was great, the $422 price on the 2 new injectors (a piece) wasn't.
Put them in, and hooked up the ficm and did a buzz test, and they clicked merrily away at room temp, the old ones wouldn't. Caps lock is going on...
BUY FORD INJECTORS, THE 1500 BUCKS I SAVED ON THE CHEAPO'S WASN'T WORTH IT!!!

Now for the bad news...the o-rings on the other stand pipe were eroded badly, and were ready to blow too - I have NO idea why! I paid a hundred bucks for that stupid little kit, and they never made it 6000 miles wtf is with that?? Now I have to wait till Monday to order another standpipe, guess I get to go out and work on the Dodge tonight.
Many thanks to all who have helped out, I'm going to rep you all, and I'm also going to post a few pics of things I made to do this job, we have the best info on the web here, but not many pics. I'll update when I get it back together.

Here are some pics of the IPR socket I built.



Rough cut on mondo socket. I probably spent 2hrs getting this thing to work..











Notice I almost daylighted the thing to get it to fit between the hpop cover and the IPR valve. Would have been nice if they cast it a half inch higher and put the electrical connection straight out so an ordinary box end wrench would work on it.



Sorry about the lousy pics, I have a cheap phone and lousy lighting in my shop.

Got the old IPR out...screen was still good, didn't need to change it...but now I have a spare, and a socket to change it - I no longer fear the IPR!!!

 

You put in the standpipe/dummy plug kit and the o-rings are already erodded??? Wow......I wonder WTF caused that?............

 

Don't know why that would be...parts guy told me they just sell the standpipes now, not the o-ring kits. I got mine from e-bay originally...I wonder if somebody sold me the old style o-rings that were prone to failing?
Here's some pics I took while doing the air check. Most will find them boring, but maybe it'll help somebody who has a hard start/long crank time issue.
The reason it took so long is photobucket rejected my browser. I had to get google chrome to get the site to upload pics.



Putting air to the ICP port



Homemade air thingy. The adapter that screws into the port has 12mm threads that I got from a hydraulic shop.



Blown standpipe o-ring that caused an 8000lb, $60,000 truck to become a boat anchor

 

I, personally, have never had a problem with the old style o-rings. I think that they simply added a teflon backup ring to the mix, which is a good idea in a high pressure situation. I wonder if the fleabay orings you were sold were the correct material to start with???

Glad you got it sorted out John. Are you back running yet?

 

No, not yet. Probably tomorrow.
The fleabay rings must have had something wrong with them, there was no reason for them to die that quick. Guess I'll never know.

 

Ok, here's the end to the story, I always like to finish this stuff so if this thread comes up in a search, there's a happy ending.
Put the new standpipe in, hit it with air, and had an air leak. Took it back out to bench test it, clamped vacumn nipple plugs over the injector "nozzles", and noticed they would rotate - they're in a socket, and that's where the air was leaking. Put it back together since it wasn't leaking before, hoping the high pressure oil would seal it. It took a couple of high speed blasts to get it seated so the truck would start normally, but it's good now.
And the injector problems are solved, I can't believe the difference in the way it sounds when I fire it up, just a smooth purr compared to the rattling, smoking, missing POS it was before.

I don't like slamming companies on the net, but I would not recommend buying from Bostech. 2 of their injectors were faulty, wouldn't even click on a buzz test at room temp, number 4 wouldn't click until 110 degrees, number 7 wouldn't click until 150 degrees, the engine missed until it was almost at operating temperature - they were obviously suffering from stiction. And to get warranty on them, you have to take them out, send them back, they test them and decide if you get a warranty, and then ship the replacements back. I was looking at close to a month of downtime, so I just traded the 2 faulty injectors in at my Ford dealer.
I don't know how they are tested, it must be with 200 degree oil and 120 volts, there's no way these things would have passed the testing they claim to do - they never worked from the time I put them in.

 

I think that's just another good testimony for Motorcraft injectors, John. More expensive on the initial outlay of $$$ but cheaper in the long run.

Interesting observation about the oil rails. I'll be checking mine out in the near future.

 

Lots of proof to this, but it is harder to convince folks of this than using the proper filters (and that is still hard at times).