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"Truck wouldn't start last night, spent 2 hours reading the no-start thread on a Ford truck site, had it narrowed down to a hpop leak or icp/ipr failure, grabbed my laptop, multimeter, code reader and other electrical gizmos, went up and pulled codes...none, then decided to wiggle the wires under the dash, away it went. The K.I.S.S. principal in action."
I was all reay to start diagnosing, then I remembered it had a dead pedal a few months back...it would start and idle, but wouldn't respond to the gas pedal, I wiggled the wires under the dash and it started working, so I tried it again.
Guess I need to crawl under with my trouble light and tape and get it fixed.
Ok, wishful thinking, went back out and it wouldn't start. Finally got it going, now it has long crank times...I'm thinking it only starts now because it's warm and cranks faster. Seems to help if I push the gas pedal down. Going to start working on it, will let everyone know what I find. (I've did the stc and standpipes/dummyplugs).
I cheaped out a couple of months ago and bought Bostech injectors for it, #4 and #7 won't even click on the buzz test until the oil temp is over 100 degrees, maybe another one is going and that's why it won't start. Buy Motorcraft!!!
*Update*
Just tested the pressure digitally with a multimeter. I made a permanent test point by clipping 2 of those blue things that you use to splice into a wire on and leaving 2 short pigtails sticking out with crimp connectors on the ends of the wires. The multimeter just plugs into the crimp connectors and I can set it on the cowl and read it. That way I don't need an assistant.
I cranked for a long time (30 seconds) and it only got up to 0.56 volts, and won't even fire. Going to test the IPR next with the AE.
It's a learning experience for sure. Maybe someone needs to make a youtube video of how to operate it??? I'm sure it has a lot more capability than I'm able to drag out of it.
Thanks for changing the title John.
Ok, just tried the AE. Checked the 4 boxes that deal with the Injection Control Pressure, this is what I got.
KOEO...Injection Control Pressure Regulator-14%. The other 3 were at zero.
Cranking...Injection Control Pressure Regulator - 39%
Injection Control Pressure Desired - 19%
Injection Control Pressure - 19%
Injection Control Pressure Volts - 0
The first thing I did this morning was unplug the ICP..still no start.
How do I check the IPR? I wish they would make the manual a little more "dummy" friendly. Maybe a "Auto Enginuity for Dummies" book?
Thanks for changing the title John.
Ok, just tried the AE. Checked the 4 boxes that deal with the Injection Control Pressure, this is what I got.
KOEO...Injection Control Pressure Regulator-14%. The other 3 were at zero.
Cranking...Injection Control Pressure Regulator - 39%
Injection Control Pressure Desired - 19%
Injection Control Pressure - 19%
Injection Control Pressure Volts - 0
The first thing I did this morning was unplug the ICP..still no start.
How do I check the IPR? I wish they would make the manual a little more "dummy" friendly. Maybe a "Auto Enginuity for Dummies" book?
IIRC IPR cranking should be closer to 85%. Not sure why ICP desired is only 19%. Plug the ICP sensor back in and check the voltage. A bad ICP sensor won't keep the truck from starting.
A bad ICP sensor won't keep the truck from starting.
Think again!!! I had a truck that was in for a no-start not too long ago. While monitoring the ICP and IPR PIDs, everything indicated it was within specs while cranking the engine over attempting to start it. Unplugging it resulted in the engine starting up, very quickly indicating a biased reading. Replaced ICP sensor and problem was fixed. The point of the story is NEVER trust the ICP psi readings when monitoring it. It is only a calculated value. ICP VOLTS are the actual readings. And to the OP, 0.56 volts is well shy of the 0.8 MINIMUM required for the PCM to "tell" the injectors to fire.
So it's obvious I don't have enough pressure in the system. Low pressure is good, the guage climbed right up this morning and would stay there for close to 10 seconds after I stopping cranking. (+25F)
If my IPR is 85%, does that mean it's ok? I don't really understand the percentage thing yet, but I will.
Think again!!! I had a truck that was in for a no-start not too long ago. While monitoring the ICP and IPR PIDs, everything indicated it was within specs while cranking the engine over attempting to start it. Unplugging it resulted in the engine starting up, very quickly indicating a biased reading. Replaced ICP sensor and problem was fixed. The point of the story is NEVER trust the ICP psi readings when monitoring it. It is only a calculated value. ICP VOLTS are the actual readings. And to the OP, 0.56 volts is well shy of the 0.8 MINIMUM required for the PCM to "tell" the injectors to fire.