After setting up about 8 days, my truck has long start now. It starts but takes longer. Before I start the process, thought I would get a few simple suggestions.

I plan to start with charging the batteries over night and see what happens. No idea how old they are since I bought it last year. The batteries did drag just a tad when it started but seem to be back up after driving.

New ICP few months back.

I have a couple scan tools.... Forscan and Dash Command. Any suggestions on what to look for?

Last note: it starts fine, just takes longer now.

Is plan to start tonight.... Any suggestions on what to check would be appreciated. Thanks Jed

 

Since you have the OBDII tools, the last link in my signature will be a big help.

 

Just getting back to this problem today but I have a unique symptom I wanted to ask about:

To re-cap: long start in morning. Temp in 80s and 90s. After first crank in the morning, cranks fine the rest of day. Actually got a romp yesterday morning.

Forscan readings all within normal range. Could not get Dash command to connect to wifi today. ICP is few months old. No oil leaking. Batteries are at least two years old. I have not tested them yet because I'm not sure how to do that with Forscan or Dash Command.

According to Forscan:
ICP from 486 to 519 at idle
IPR at 10.16
Volt 13.19 to 14.00 at idle ... 12.44 KOEO
193k miles (probably still on factory injectors).
Motorcraft 15/40 with about 2000 miles since last oil change.

One other thing, friend told me to add little extra oil and see if that helped. I usually keep it close to full mark but right now it may be 1/4 to 1/2 quart low. Don't see how that would have much effect since I've had it lower and it has cranked fine. Didn't have any oil on hand today to try that anyway.

So, what would cause the long crank in morning but cranks fine the rest of day?

Thanks Tugley for the link..... Reading it now.

Jed

 

No smoke from exhaust

 

Couple other things:

If bad injectors, wouldn't it run bad all the time?

No way to load test unless I take it somewhere, but wouldn't an overnight charge (until it reads float), be a good way to text batteries?

Thanks

 

No. That is a State of Charge Test and not a Dynamic Load Test. You could use a Hydrometer or Refratometer to determin the Specific Gravity which, is more accurate than either above.

 

Tired injectors would be my guess.

Change the oil to Rotella T6 synthetic 5w-40w and see if it improves.

It has made a difference for me at about the same mileage.

As it was explained to me, when the oil is warmed up by running, it thins. Tired injectors are helped by thinner oil. Our trucks also need the heavier weight by design.

The 5w-40w covers that range, which helps a lot in cold weather, can also help the tire injectors in warmer weather. 90F isn't much when compared to 200F normal operating temps

Romping is a key symptom that this will likely help.

 

Mine turned out to be a bad starter/solenoid. Would crank great throughout the day but if it sat overnight it would be a slow start. If it sat for a couple of days it may or may not start. Lived with this for a year or so. The bad starter had killed my batteries. Buck$zooka: New starter and new batteries. Everything has been working fine since.

Not saying that's your problem but that's what mine was. I had no other symptoms.

 

Thanks .... Might be heading that direction.

Thanks to all who replied. What ever happened occurred over 8 days while truck was sitting up. It went from cranking fine to the long start from one start to the next. If it were injectors, which I would be glad to replace, wouldn't it run a little rough at other times? Or blow some smoke? Can injectors do this from one crank to another? It runs great after the first start and cranks like a champ every time there after. It actually fires up pretty good but just takes it longer to get there. Other than the one romp, it fires up, no smoke or shudder.

So, I did a little experiment. I charged batteries all night until charger went into float mode. Temp around 90 this afternoon. It Had the long start but fired up. I immediately shut it down after no more than 15 seconds. I Started it again; it fired up without long start. I did that to not let oil warm up. I then drove down road exactly one mile and shut it down. Fired right back up with no long start. Brought home and let it sit for 3 hours. Started like a champ.

I'm willing to try the T6 but if takes an oil twice the cost to run, I would like to find the problem first since it has run fine on 15/40 for 15+ years. These trucks were designed to run 15/40. If it needs injectors to run 15/40 then I will get injectors. I get the T6 stuff in cold weather but these trucks will crank fine with 15/40 if everything is working properly. Mine cranked all winter as low as 10 degrees (after I replaced ICP) and that was just 500 miles ago.

Thanks again for advice. T6 might be answer but the way I see it, the problem is still there, correct? Is the experiment I mentioned about helpful, or did I just waste my time?

Jed

 

If your HPOP reservoir leaks down it may take some cranking for the LPOP to refill it. Next time it sits pull the plug on top of res and check the level. It's not a common thing but has happened in the past.

 

Makes sense to me. Now to figure out where plug is......

 

Forgot to ask, what causes oil to drop or leak down? Where does it leak to? I have no oil leaks that I can see.

 

plug is on top of reservoir.

 

It would be an internal leak.


IIRC There is a check valve in the block on drivers side right behind the HPOP. could have a piece of debris in it. oil would be leaking back into the pan

 

The cap/plug of the HPOP reservoir is on the top of the HPOP reservoir. I think it has a hex allen fitting in it.

The T6 is diagnostic as well as helpful, if you have this problem. If it can extend your injector use time, it's easier to get your options and plan for the expense and project.

It would stink to replace injectors and still have the same problem

At least that's the intention