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Have not had a lick of issue with this truck until now. Been starting and running fine. Stared right up this AM and drive 45 minutes. Stopped for cup of coffee and no start. Just cranking and cranking, Grabbed tools and scanner (SCT) and checked for code. P1212, After reading on my Iphone and checking everything.. Oil 1/2 up stick from needing to full, Plug puled on reservoir and full of oil, checked all electric plugs are tight, etc, etc, Figured it might be ICP sensor from reading on forum, Called closest dealer and they had one in stock. While waiting for buddy to come pick me up I tried stating again and after long crank it did start.
Drove 10 miles to get part and then 20 miles home and parked truck. I had cleared cope when I got it started, so when I got home I checked before I shut it down and NO codes. Turned off truck and tried to start again and NO start. Checked for code and sure enough P1212.
Now I am in house and doing some reading that this might be the ICP or IPR or leaking Injectors. I have not opened the ICP and can return if not used.
I was wanting to get opinion on where to start with this. Hate to change a part that is NOT needed...
SCT gives limit info on live readings. I am going to go get my Diabo Sport tuner out of my F350 with 6.0 and see if it provides more live info for me. Also will try to start truck again as it has had a hour to cool down.
Yes tested and cleaned when broke down this AM. Seems to be when cold it will start and hot it wont. So seems to be heat related internment over random that you get with dirty or shorting connections.
Went back out with SCT scanner and created .dfl file to monitor ICP. Still starting after cranking for a 4.2 seconds. Even let warm up and and still starting but after 4 or more seconds. Here is the graph from the ICP. look like its taking a LONG time to get to 500 and start the engine. Is this normal due to lack for pressure and needing to build and or sensor that takes a long time to read before it fires.
I think its one of these, anyone care to coment on where to start first?
bad ICP sensor
bad or dirty IPR
leak of oil at injectors.
Now that you have a profile for the IPR, disconnect the ICP and try to start it and record your battery voltage and RPM in addition to your ICP (no need for ICP volts).
This is built into the system. If you are unsure of the ICP sensor, pull it and the PCM will default the IPR to what it believes will put ICP at 700 PSI (cold start ICP). Your data says two things: Your IPR and your HPOP are functioning... but it does NOT say you have a bad ICP (yet).
Look at your volts: I don't know what voltage reading that was, but I'm pretty sure your engine didn't crank with zero volts. I did see that your graph shows 8 volts the first time, then about 10.5 volts the second time. You want your volts above 10.5 when you start, but since it started... I'm guessing the reading was of something other than battery.
If you have correct battery voltage AND that pathetic ICP reading is what you're getting when plugged in AND the truck fires right up with ICP unplugged... yuh dun good by getting a new ICP to install.
I did not want to use the 160 dollar ICP from the dealer so ordered one from Pensacola Diesel. I came in Saturday and I replaced it. Truck now idles like crap and engine shakes at idle. Worst is when driving (driving is fine) but when I come off the gas and it goes to idle but in gear its rough. Also lacking some power it seems like. I was not sure if related or something new so tonight when I got home and parked it with it idling I pulled the cable going to the ICP and idle got a LOT better. Could a bad ICP cause this type of issue?
Also the one that came from Pensocola Diesel and the OEM one look alike bu the one I pulled from the truck looked different. Did they make different ones?
Injector o-rings are worn not allowing the oil pressure to hold and fire them up. As the oil gets heated up and thins, the problem shows itself. With the onslaught of winter and extreme temps o-rings, and seals for that matter, that are near the end of their lifecycle will be brought down faster going from frigid to hot etc.
If you do open it up, I would recommend changing everything in there i.e. gasket, harness, glow plugs and especially the o-rings. Re-use the large pink o-ring in the middle as replacement gaskets for the dog house vent on the drivers side valve cover.
I am going to put the old ICP back in. Even though it took a little more cranking to start it was working. I want to see if this idle issue goes away with the old one back in.
Here is a picture of the old ICP. Is this just a old style ICP? As the new one does not look like it.
The new ICP has a different exterior design, but it is the correct one. At 160, you were getting a deal from the dealer. Mine ran me 190. But I needed the part then and had no where else to get it. So I took the raping unlubed.
I am not sure its the O - rings on the injectors. I pulled the plug from the ICP and took her for a drive, No idle issues at all. If the O 0-rings were leaking enough for a bad idle you would that the issue would still be there ICP or not.
I am thinking I got a bad ICP and about to make a call to the place I got it. Anyone comment on the o-ring over bad ICP issue?
The new ICP has a different exterior design, but it is the correct one. At 160, you were getting a deal from the dealer. Mine ran me 190. But I needed the part then and had no where else to get it. So I took the raping unlubed.
Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR)
Injection Control Pressure (ICP) sensor
Restriction in high pressure pump
Restriction in front cover
The IPR percentage is much lower than normal, but the ICP reading is much higher than normal, especially at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Normal readings at idle are around 500 PSI on the ICP, and 11-14% on the IPR. At WOT (driving), the IPR is usually about 2600 PSI with IPR at 35%.
Try unplugging the ICP sensor (round, 3-wire sensor screwed into the oil rail on the driver side cylinder head, toward the front of the head). Drive the vehicle with the ICP sensor disconnected. If the vehicle runs better with the sensor disconnected, it is likely that the sensor is misreading the pressure and causing the actual ICP to be too low.
If the vehicle runs the same or worse with the ICP sensor disconnected, there is probably a sticking Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR), a restriction in the oil drain passage of the high pressure oil pump or the engine front cover.
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