thank you for pointing that out, kind sir. i'm sorry my grammatical errors seem to put you off trying to even read them. i'm sorry my ebonics seem rather "obviously intentional". i'm sorry that whatever i intended to write just seems to **** people off. i'm sorry that i "intentionally" meant to have my posts seem useless to everybody. hold them horses, have i apologized enough to you and everybody else yet?

and here i thought that my sole intention was to help a fellow ford "brother" out in a legitimate ford truck forum. hmmm, maybe the fact that i was trying to cover all the bases in a possible problem for my fellow ford "brother" was done so rather distastefully? hmmm, i wonder where i've been misleading. was it the fact that i forgot to mention that it might be possible unburnt fuel? in that case, my sincerest apologies to the OP and everybody else.

does anybody care what my grammar is, or is it more important to get to the root of the problem, which in this case was the issue of too many injectors dying out in the OP's car in such a short period of time? i would safely assume that since i've been on here, that everybody i've come in contact with seems to get what i'm saying, and if anyone was offended by my apparent lack of written cohesion, that they would already have approached me by now.

maybe i should go back to my alma mater and get my money back because i did not learn a damn thing. oh well, let me try to approach Westpoint Academy for my money back. i'll be more than happy to keep you posted on whether i got my money back or not.

maybe the fact that i was an army airborne ranger and i got pummeled with bullets, knives and incendiary devices might have jarred my typing skills. maybe i should be sorry that i can't type right. i'm sorry. i thought i was here to help out another fellow ford owner to the best that i can, and if he (or yourself) were ever close by my side of town, and needed an extra pair of hands or tools, i'd drive out there to help in any way i can.

maybe i've been wrong all along.

 

Not too sure how much help or consolation it is to the OP, but I'll share a very similar story. About three years ago, a truck (one of MANY) came in on the hook as a no-start, accompanied with the complaint that the owner saw LOTS of white smoke and ongoing coolant loss just before it finally quit and left the driver on the side of the road. Long story short, I slam-dunked a couple coolers at it (but NOT before verifying that the EGR cooler HAD in fact failed by bench-testing since this vehicle didn't run, so I had no way of monitoring ECT/EOT data). When it came time to start the engine, it wouldn't fire up. After monitoring ALL the usual 6.0L data pertaining specifically to no-start type scenarios, I was baffled due to the fact that EVERYTHING (ICP volts/psi, ICP desired, IPR duty cycle, FICM_M voltage, FICM_SYNC, SYNC and fuel pressure) was right up to where it needed to be, to fire up. The ONLY thing I noticed was an apparent lack of injector pre-cycling during key-on events. Soooooo, I swapped FICMs with a known good FICM as my first attempt, NO GO. I double-checked and triple-checked that I was getting fuel, TONS of it. It would fire off instantly with brake parts cleaner and then die out once it was all burned off. When I did an injector buzz test, only TWO of the eight buzzed/clicked. Completely doubtful that THAT many injectors could fail all at one time, I plugged in my homemade "noid light" tool into all eight of each injector connector and repeated the buzz test, one by one returning conclusively that the FICM was functioning and delivering current to all eight injectors. I even went one step further and plugged in a new injector to each connector one by one, repeating the above test, and sure enough the new injector clicked. Replacing the six NON-BUZZING/NON-CLICKING injectors got the truck up and running. The point of this story? Weird things do happen. As far as what could cause THAT many to fail at the same time? Who knows? Fuel quality? Lack of maintenance? It could be one, or any combination of the above. Just my two cents.

 

sounds like tat truck was possessed, m-chan68. lol. i'm allegedly qualified to do exorcisms. maybe if i had known u then, i might have done it for u for free. lmao.

 

Well you said a whole lot of things im not up to code on chan, but i get your point. Ive gained alot of good advice...clean good oil, fuel pressure, fuel filters. What should i use for oil? a friend of mine is a amsoil dealer and his stuff sounds pretty great. Also is there anything else that i can do to this truck to get the most out of it for the long term?

 

Also....how do i get a dang signature? do i need a certain amount of posts? or a different type of account?

 

I certainly don't give a flying "you know what". I appreciate everyone here that offers solutions to problems.

In the general news forums I used to give those "proper English" armholes a piece of my mind. Now I don't waste my time.

Thank you for your service - both here and for our country.

 

Personally, I'm not a fan of Amsoil. For the price you can run Rotella T (synthetic) or Valovine Blue and still save some $$$. There have been hot debates in the past as to how far you can run a full synthetic in these engines. The fact remains, the 6.0L (like any other HUEI engine) shears the oil since it's used to fire/ram the fuel into the cylinders. I subscribe the to reasoning that at 5k miles it's sheared out (all the additives are gone) and needs to be replaced. I've been running Mysthic JT8 which is a synthetic blend for the last 70k miles. At $14 a gallon I think it's a reasonable price. You may discover oil threads (there are several in the 6.0L forum) are like what kind of underwear you wear. As long as it gets the job done and you & the truck are happy....I say run it. Here are a couple of the acronyms Mike used:

http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/Engine/Sensors/Sensors.html

You'll have to wait until you have 25 posts. Then on the left side of the blue bar...under "User CP" there will be an option to update your signature. Also, after 25 posts you can send/receive PM (private messages) from other members.

 

Great thank you.

 

Ok i have been reading the tech folder and wow i guess thats why they say READ FIRST. there is a ton of info in there! haha well i guess i have just one more question for now, where do i buy oem filters? does it have to be from the dealership or is there some place cheaper. Im sorry for the dumb questions but this is my first diesel and i just want to do things right. I want this truck to be around when my son drives....he is three.

 

Home - Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks

 

+1 for dieselfiltersonline

or an International Dealership - if they will sell them to you.

Fram are also OEM Racor's

 

Great thank you

 

I've bought my filters in times past through DieselFilterOnline. I won't buy filters from my local Ford dealership....$90 for a filter kit is STUPID. I've also bought 'em through my Navistar dealership as well.By the way, Clay at RiffRaff is offering Ford filters now...if you'd like to do business with a site sponsor.

Oil Filter:
Riffraff Diesel: OEM Lube / Oil filter

Fuel Filter:
Riffraff Diesel: 6.0L Fuel Filter Set

(Got some fan mail...directly from him a couple of weeks ago about this very subject. I'm sure he'll see this post at some point and he'll give me grief about this disclaimer)I know the oil filter is a repackaged Racor, but they offer the fuel filters as well?

 

Yes, Racor (Parker Hannifin) verified to me that they supply Fram w/ their 6.0L fuel filters. A Fram representative posted up some time ago - also confirming it, That being said, who knows when, or if, they will ever switch to cheaper filters. If you don't know what the real thing is when you are looking at it, just go w/ what is safe - Racor, International, or Motorcraft.

 

I find I can get Ford filters ect. on line at a fraction of the cost, I kinda like keeping my money, mine.....