Hi All,

Quite a story here. My son was driving my '05 6.0, 215k mi. and it white smoked on him, started running terrible so he parked it.

He and his buddy said it smelled like anti freeze so I replaced the EGR cooler with an upgraded model and while I was in there, replaced the oil cooler with an upgraded one. Jeez, what a freakin' job. Thank the good lord for dieseltechron, just don't believe the timeline on the videos, it takes a LOT longer than that.(at least for me)

I know the egr cooler was bad because I was losing antifreeze but it wasn't leaking anywhere. I figured the egr cooler just let go sonce it was an original. I put one of the coolers with SS tubes welded in. Hopefully it will last.

Those two mods seem ok, so far. Haven't had any issues with leaks, at least.

That brings me to my problems. Upon starting after the egr and oil cooler install it was obvious it was hydrolocking. So, after removing glow plugs #6 injector was the culprit, diesel fuel everywhere. If y'all want to see I'll post the video.

Since I was going through everything I replaced the stand pipes and dummy plugs on both oil rails. I knew I was going to have to replace #6 injector so I went ahead and bought 4 rebuilt injectors from DCP on ebay for $150 each replacing 2,4,6,8.

So, after replacing the injectors I started the engine and got a #8 injector circuit low. After taking all the stuff back off to get to #8 plug, it showed one of the coils was reading high resistance. C'mon, don't they read out the coils during rebuild? So, I took the valve cover off, took out #8, put one of the old coils on it, put it all back together and tried it.

When I started it after #8 coil replacement it ran like a dream..... for 10 minutes. It was idling good, sounded good, I thought I was home free. I just let it sit and run for a while.

Then it started running a little rough. I checked my scanner and it had a P0272 code, #4 cylinder injector balance.

Oh no, here we go again. So, tomorrow I will jerk it all apart again, see if I can find anything wrong with #4. If not, I'll put a "known" good one on from the originals (not #6, for sure) put it all back together again and try it. DCP will get the offending #4 back.

One other thing is it is starting hard every time, cold or hot, so I don't know if I messed anything up on the standpipes when I installed them. They are not rocket surgery. After I get the injectors solved I'll work on the hard start.

My question to all of you is, what experience do you have with #4 balance (P0272) code?

I am so weary of working on this truck. Call me obsessed but it's all I can think about and I actually dream about it, what to do next and the sequence. It's maddening. I'm sure none of you have this problem.

Your thoughts on the problems appreciated. (I know, I'm crazy, no need to comment on that, lol.)

 

Well, you won't be the first or last one to dream about working on a 6.0


As for the DCP rebuilds? Less than stellar reviews. 90% of the forum here will tell you should get Ford remans and be done with it. They can be had for $200 each after cores.
Just a cursory search on Google for DCP injectors I came up with pages of unhappy blokes, not just 6.0 but Dmax guys as well.
I think I would take them all out, get your money back whether they give you a refund or you end up disputing the charges.......and stick the Ford remans in.
Go to Autonation Ford parts(google Tousley Ford parts) or Ed at FICMrepair can set you up. Good chance your contribution codes are related to crap injectors.

Your starting issues might be something as simple as the fact you have air in the high pressure side that needs to be worked out. It might take a few hours or a few days but should improve.

 

Great post Mike.

 

That's normal i think If not well you and I are alot alike

On the injectors my only input is I would not use anything but casserly or oem injectors new or rebuild. I've not had these issues but when i do i know what I'd do. Also after the work you've done---you should be confident you in your skills on the 6.0 as you've done most of what these trucks need done to them at one point or another.

 

Thanks for this. I also appreciate the other posters' comments.

I got the procedure down pat, for sure, but boy, it's a real killer getting my big ol' gut up on that truck.

I'll start yanking it apart again this evening. The worst part for me is that blasted air filter and the valve cover bolt in the back, there's a lot of grunting and straining on those two. Other than that, piece of cake.

Wish me luck.

 

Airfilter? Try leaving it all together. Only undo the hose clamp and pull the ends and filter element as one piece. They go back in the same way too, as a unit.

 

If someone gave me a set of Ebay injectors and paid 3X the normal cost
to install them I wouldn't. The only thing that they are worth would be for cores.

If you used paypal and have not let the complaint time clock run out I would
get in touch with Paypal and get you $ back and then go to someone like Ed
at FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
Reasonable cost for real Ford injectors. Less than you pay at most dealerships.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Do what I did go to autonation ford and print out the cart with an injector for you truck

Take to local ford

Mine always comes close to matching there price

I personally did this today with a bad inject

Autonation was $203.50

My ford came in at $222.00 plus tax NO SHIPPING CHARGE NO CORE FEE walked out Reman OEM inject in hand
TOTAL cost was $237.00 2 year warrenty

IV done this many times at a couple diffrent Ford dealers local here

Other then that I would used FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts


You really have to be careful on reman injectors ALL the cheaper options Other then Ford dealer or Ed at www.ficmrepair.com and a couple other good ones the rest are JUNK

 

How is the FICM

how's the rest the stuff I'm talking live data


If I was you Id do this test below before pulling apart for 3rd Time cause them inject you have are questionable


COMPRESSION/INJECTOR BUBBLE TEST
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...37662676074714

 

X2 ^^^^^^^^^

Let us know if we can help. Thanks for the referrals, guys!

 

Thanks for this. I now have learned to pull it off as a unit. Much easier than struggling with taking the filter out, then the accompanying ductwork.

 

Thanks for this. I will keep this in mind, for sure as I am still not confident in the injector set up I have now.

As to the rest of the story...

I did put in one of the "old known good" injectors, that cleared up the #4 code.

In the meantime, the Y pipe on the degas bottle broke. Instead of doing the pvc fix, I opted to buy a new gates, $83.

When I put it all back together, it ran beautifully. Just sounded great and plenty of power. I was really pleased, however, the battery light was coming on and voltage was 11.6. So, off I go and get a 140 amp alternator for it, $180. I put that on this morning, fired it up and got good voltage, about 13.6 when the batt is charging.

So I'm a happy camper. I hook up my trailer and get ready to go get my sister in law's furniture about 50 miles from my house(yes, my wife is making me do it), the truck runs fine pulling the trailer down I 85 in SC. I'm not running it too fast, about 65 - 70, ICP pressure looks good, FICM voltage is 49, ECT and EOT are within 6 deg. Outside it's in the upper 80's, really beautiful ride, AC is cold, life is good.

We get to my mother in law's house (she passed away just over a month ago) where we were getting some furniture for my sister in law and just when I pulled into the yard, the truck died. I mean like someone just pulled the plug.

I am so thankful it didn't happen on the side of hot I85 with my wife, sister in law and great nephew in the truck. That would have been misery, for sure.

So, the truck won't hit a lick at a snake. IPC is reading about 105 psi when cranking, base oil pressure is good.

The only thing I can think of is that the IPR has trash. When I put on the oil cooler and EGR cooler, I did my dead level best to keep all trash out like dieseltechron says.

So, the truck sits at my mother in law's house and I am going to get a new IPR and put it in. I'd really rather not have to tow it again.

Once I get it back home I'll dig into it again. I have to believe that I will get through this and it will be a good truck. Or, I will go stark raving mad, put a nickle in it and push it over a cliff to say I threw something away.

Again, wish me luck, your comments and suggestions are appreciated.

I will be buying new(reman)injectors again and installing, but I'll have to recover from this first. This thing is thousand dollaring me to death.

 

Don't buy a new IPR, pull and clean the screen on the old one.

 

Thanks Tideman, I appreciate it.

I have a new IPR on the way, however, I will have the old one out, screen cleaned, ready to install should the new one get stopped up.

When you look at dieseltechron's video, he emphasizes to keep things clean. I tried my best to do so, but something must have gotten in there.

 

Question for you all. Is the plastic "bracket" that fits on the bottom of the air filter really necessary? I left it off last time I put the assembly back in.