Question for ya BLADE...

Last night with truck to full operating temps - ECT ~186, EOT ~194. I revved the truck up slowly in park. Around 2000 RPMs I heard a thud/pop/miss then the RMPs dropped 100-200 then eventually came back up. Now, I thought maybe the drop was because I reacted to the noise. So I did it again. This happend 5 or 6 times before I stopped with the same result. It didn't always happen at 2000 RPMs, it would happen at lower or higher RPM but seemed to never happen below about 1500.

Sounds like a bad injector, right?

I should probably get AE coming.

 

AE arrived this weekend!

What tests should I perform?

 

I didnt see you question B4 about the pop,thud or whatever it is and I really dont know what that could be. Does it still do that. Have you tried to have someone work the throttle while you listen in the moter and try to dial in where its coming from???


As Far as the AE Man Im so jelous of you that thing is sweet I keep telling myself when an Injector goes out or I get something thats beyond the SGII capabilities I would get one But my truck runs sweet KNock On Wood

What you want to do is get it too run a cylinder balance test and you should be able to see the weak Cylinders/injector. I havent used one so Im not 100% shure but you want to see a flat line when doing the cylinder balance test. Thats what Iv read from other posts anyway

 

I haven't checked for the popping noise again. I'll check it again tomorrow.

I'll run the balance test and hopefully find something out.

BTW - I pulled my 25' enclosed snowmobile trailer with sled, four wheeler, and some furniture from Omaha to Sioux City (~100 miles) tonight. Truck seemed to run great. I just don't see how it could run so good with a bad injector. Oh well, I'll find out with the AE soon enough.

Will post results....

 

It maynot be an injector at all who knows that AE will dial it in

You also can buzz test each injector with the AE and can note any weak injectors/coils

And make shure to scan for codes with the AE you will be able to see all of them Now

 

Here's the codes I received:

P0672 - Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit

B1483 - Brake Pedal Input Circuit Failure

B1352 - Ignition Key-in Circuit Failure

Do you thinkg any of these could be the culprit?

I haven't done the contribution test or buzz injector test yet. I just ran the DTC before work this AM.

 

Ran AE again over lunch. Ran buzz test and power balance. Don't know what to take from the tests. Buzz test just said it was completed successfully. i let power balance run for awhile and watched the graph. It dipped and spiked occasionaly but never above or below 200.

BTW - i jiggled the connectors to the GPCM around before running AE again and the P0672 DTC is now gone. I only have the P1000 - OBD II readiness test has not been completed.

Also, the battery icon was on for much of my testing. Don't recall when it came on but noticed it while running the power balace. Went away after I shut the truck down and restarted. The test results said by batter voltage was 12.64. Running back to work AE said voltage was ~13.7. FICM right at 49.

How should I proceed? I also started another thread titled 'Using Auto Enginuity' if you want to partake.

thanks for all your help Blade!!!

 

I wouldn't worry too much about a P1000, several folks have gotten 'em with nothing wrong with the truck. I've wondered if the AE/PCM don't always get along and that's the default error code when something doesn't jihad just right?I'd keep an eye on that, could be the first stages of an alternator or battery issue. Could be something as simple as a poor connection...or something a little more severe. Wouldn't hurt to check your battery post & wiring at the alternator for good connections.
Answered what I could, I'm 200 miles from my AE...I know, stupid move on my part.

 

Not having much luck with the AE. I tried the power balance test while driving but the graph always goes way above 600 (which is the max) while accelerating. The jerking/studdering occurs while accelerating. what do i do? otherwise graph doesn't move.

if it does move, should i pay attention to the black or red line?

Also, something new i noticed today. i noticed bluish smoke most of the time i was driving today whether cold or hot. would a bad turbo seal cause the jerking/studdering? i tried to check the downpipe but couldn't get the clamp off. the clamp seems to be stuck and was bending - was afraid i was going to destroy clamp. any tricks to getting it off. could the bluish smoke be related to a bad ficm?

i have read that just because the ficm voltage is good doesn't necessarily mean the ficm isn't bad. if my ficm voltages are right on, how do i determine if it really is in good shape.

oh btw - had my batteries load tested at O'Reilly's today. both tested 'good' at ~12.6 volts. seem low?

 

What Battery light came on????? the one on the dash??????
If it was the one on the dash somethings up Cuz that ones very accurite

When you do the Buzz test you will also want to listen to the tone in the Buzz they should all be about the same tone and strong Buzz

And I thought on the cylinder Balance test you want a straight line any dips indicate a weak cylinder
Sounds like its going off the screen during acceleration
maybe try a mild acceleration IDK I dont know about that AE other than its supposed to be the Cats A$$

Zach can help you better than I with that AE

Oh a bad turbo seal wont cause your problems just make it smoke

 

well, if i get a dip it's always most of if not the entire line.

 

was it the battery light on the Dash that poped on

 

I'm throwing ideas out at this point...the few times I've had contribution issues I was able to pick it off at idle. Didn't have to be accelerating to find it. If the truck is acting like it's got a dead miss, might try disabling one injector at a time and taking it for a spin a couple of times to see if it acts worse or the same. That's assuming it's an injector issue.Going from memory, the black is desired amount, red is actual...don't have my AE with me to confirm and it's too blessed cold to be out there right now.Tap on the bottom of the downpipe to see if you can jar it loose. The heat/cool cycles have seized the blessed thing to the exhaust of the turbo. As far as the smoke, could be oil getting burned somewhere...leaking oil seal on the turbo comes to mind.
If you suppect your FICM, I'd get in touch with Ed at FICMrepair.com; I'm sure he'll tell you more than you'll ever want to know about FICMs.That sounds about right...my current set are showing 12.8VDC; but they're just barely a year old.

 

And a reply just for BennyThe line in the balance test should be somewhat level all the way across. It's going to peak as the injectors fire when there's a change in power/rpm for the engine. But other wise it should be level...never more than 200 "delta" on the graph.
It's the cat's meow, your such a square Benny