You need to check it without the engine running as blade said KOEO... Then they should be within 0.5

 

that was without the engine running....KOEO

 

Anybody have any comments on my readings? I will be leaving work in about an hour and a half and will have limited access to internet until Monday as I will be on the road over the weekend. Wouldn't mind knowing what the high BAR reading means before the weekend.

 

I had to drive from Sioux City, IA to Omaha, NE this evening. Decided I would unplug the egr valve to see how the truck would react. Truck ran the best since I've owned it. I got 17.4 MPG on cruise at 2000 RPMs or ~70 MPH. I've never even came close to that kind of mileage. Normally at 2000 RPMs I get 14.5-15 max. Truck never posted any codes with egr valve unplugged. I only felt one or two misses when I first started the truck with egr unplugged. Why would the truck react this way?

When I first got the truck I had to replace the egr valve because it kept popping a code even after cleaning it. Even when the current egr valve was brand new the truck never ran this good. Do you think it's a combination of recent coolant flush and unplugging egr valve that has made the difference?

I'm going to drive the truck for a couple days without the egr valve plugged in and see what happens. If it continues to run fine without popping a code, should I just leave it that way or buy a new valve?

Also, my ECT vs EOT was 186 vs 200 the whole way. The last 10 miles I dropped down to 60 MPH and it immediately went down to 186 vs. bouncing back and forth between 197 and 198. I know the spread is larger than desired but the TSB says that ECT should be at 190. Should I be concerned about this? FYI - this is not a new occurence although the first time I have seen at 14 degree spread.

I really appreciate everybody's help!!

 

You need a new BARO sensor its to far OFF

to me BARO sets the standard for the PCM

it might be that the PCM sees the baro so high and is opening the EGR to much Im not shure Exactly

or the X-gauge Code is off

I think we need to verify the BARO X-Code very first thing it looks exactly Double what it should be (14-15 PSI Normal)

Hang on I will go verify on my SGII

Almost sounds like the EGR valve is open to far I dont know if Cuz the Baro so far off or just a bad EGR valve

 

ok My Bad

I have 3 diff codes for BARO I have alot of diffrent codes I think some are for diffrent stratigies/MY sooner or later we will get it

TXD=07E0221442

RXF=046285140642

RXD=3010

MTH=001D00500000

Try this code pretty shure this the code Im running I do have 1 more code for it if this one dont work
but pretty shure this the code I have entered in mine

And sounds like you need a new egr valve

 

Thanks BLADE! Much better results now. BAR at 14.0, MAP at 14.2, and EBP at 14.4.

I'm going to drive with egr unplugged for a couple days and see what happens. If it continues to run like it did tonight sounds like I will be buying another valve.

What do you think about my ECT vs EOT delta?

 

oh on the egr valve its probably ok this time of year unless your pulling a trailer but the Fan dont work at all levals with the egr VALVE UNPLUGGED

and if it Does set a Cel for the egr valve unplugged it could go into a Limp Mode
If it does go into limp mode turn truck off plug it in and clear codes with the SGII

heres a good thread on the EGR valve From Cheezit

Unplugged EGR VALVE & the problems that follow
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...egr-valve.html

and since egr is unplugged watch the temps CLOSE and put in the X-Gauge for Fan Speed Sensor

FSS

NAM: FSS

 

What values should I be looking for with the FSS?

 

Thats a Very BROAD Question

the PCM figures lots into it

Ambeint Temp,Speed MPH,ECT,A/C,Stratigy

mine will run 300-600Fan RPMs Ambeint under 95 over 95 ambeint 600-800
ECT at 218* kicks up to 1400-1600 Fan RPMs

those are only a couple examples you will just have to watch it for awhile to get a feel for it
and you might get diffrent results since the egr valve is unplugged
if egr valve is plugged in it will work right and you would get a better idea how it works Properly

The best thing would be to either replace and run the EGR valve or Deleate it Right.
I would do what your doing and see if it pops a code for EGRvalve being unplugged for a few days
If it does eventualy pop a CEL you will need a tunner if you go deleate route

Mine never did throw a cel with the egr valve unplugged so I did the Full egr deleate and the plugged the egr valve back in for fan operation and gained 1-2 mpg since not recycling spent exhaust gasses back into the intake
so watch that fuel milage to while unplugged

And Really watch those TEMPS
if your crusing down the road empty you should be fine if it does get hotpull over and just let it idel and it will cool down then turn it off and plug the egr valve back
But empty this time year yoyu should be fine just a little caution

 

Back home today and back to normal daily driving. EGR valve still unplugged. Over lunch today it was doing the miss at idle and shudder/jerking at speed again. It didn't seem as bad though. Is my next step to check injectors? If so, I need some advice on how to go about that. I called to check prices for diagnostics and they want $176. That is half the price of the AE. Should I just bite the bullet and buy the AE for this?

Or is there something else I can check before going the injector route? What about relearning the computer - how do I do that?

 

to me your symtoms point to a bad injector maybe a bad injector harness or FICM issue

The AE would be the ticket cuz you could do a cylinder balance test and see a bad injector if thats what it is.

I beleive clay at riff raff diesel has the best price and he also has the newest version too if you decide to go that route

you could also try a Ballon test for the injectors

check it out see what you think

Injector Ballon Test
DTS Articles - The Balloon Test

 

Can the AE diagnose a bad injector harness or FICM? My Scangauge shows a healthy FICM but I've read good voltage doesn't always mean it's healthy, correct?

Also, any chance this is injector stiction? If so, will the AE show which injector(s) are affected by stiction?

 

I mean AE wont nessacerly come out and tell you its an Injector harness vs and injector

It will be a process of elimination with diffrent tests

Ae will run the cylinder balance test then it will also buzz the injectors 1 at a time

A injector harness needs to be checked with a DVM for continuty and may even need a load test

sometimes you take and plug the injector harness to diffrent injectors and try and move the problem and then check with a buzz test if the problem moves you know its not the injector but a harness or FICM

An AE will also check for manufacture specific codes what SGII wont

 

Yes good ficm voltage doesnt mean its Good ficm or healthy

Stiction usually goes away as the truck warms up

Since your missing at all times I think you have an injector going out

AE will show weak cylinders with the cylinder balance test

try this and give Clay a call he could tell you more about it than me
Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle