I was on my way home from a week long camping trip yesterday. 2 1/2 hr trip pulling my 5th wheel with my 2006 6.0 all stock except blue spring, coolant filter, zoodad mod. the last 15 miles of the trip, cruising on the highway at 55 mph the truck started to stutter loosing power then died. CEL never came on. I made it on to the shoulder and tried to start it. At first nothing, then I let the fuel pump run for a few seconds and it started except it was billowing white smoke, rich with fuel. I checked the degas bottle and it was where it was suppose to be. I am assuming it is an injector, looking back I have noticed a decrease in fuel milage but thought maybe I was just driving different. I tried a few things while i was waiting on the tow truck, got it started and unplugged the egr, no change, unplugged the ICP, no change. After doing those is the only time i have gotten any codes. does this sound like an injector to everyone else?
Does anyone know anybody in the Clarksville TN area with AE scan tool?

 

I think it still could be an injector . I had one go out last summer at first had no codes . I had no smoke but that was cause it was dead as in no fuel , then after a couple of days had an injector code for number 1 injector replaced it all was good . And as bad as truck ran no engine light . Also have you checked your EGR valve . And I am in knoxville where is Clarksville ?

 

I have checked and cleaned the egr just yesterday. No signs of coolant there.

Clarksville is about an hour NW of Nashville.

 

Sounds like an injector to me. I wouldn't be driving it that way either. Even trying to start it could risk a hydrolock.

 

I lost three injectors, no codes, symptoms quite similar to yours. Check the fuel pressure - mine was below 50 psi idle, 42 psi full load. Need the blue spring...

Brian

 

Those that say that they lost injector(s) and didn't get any codes, what are y'all using to read those codes?

If an injector is going south, there should be some code, off the top of my head a cylinder contribution/balance code. Those codes though will not throw a CEL though. So it would be up to how good your good reading device is.

I would say you should for sure be getting a balance code based on your description of the smoke.

 

By no codes, I mean no standard codes apparent on a plain jane reader, and no wrench light and no check engine light. There is a cylinder contribution code that a ford specific reader can see.

Brian

 

is there a code reader that i can buy other than a $300+ system that will read a low contribution code?

i was thinking of going ahead and replacing all 8 injectors along with installing arp head studs while i was in there along with stc fitting, cleaning turbo, rebuilding oil cooler, and blocking off egr cooler, and cleaning the hfcm, giving the intake a bath and other misc. cleaning

 

I never understood why people want to try to cheap out on some things. On things that will help them save money down the road as well.

You are doing one thing that I wouldn't recommend doing on a variety of levels and if I'm not mistaken that would pay for AutoEnginuity with the Ford License from RiffRaff. Unless you are lucky on ebay or other means, that is hands down the best bang for your buck buying new.

Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle

That's 3 trips to my local dealership just to have my codes read. They do nothing else, just pull codes it would cost me about $370 total for those 3 trips. For all that you are getting with that software, that software is cheap. Y'all have no idea really how cheap that software is for what it can do. It can actually do things that the dealership can't do. Reprogram the speedo for 40" tires, dealerships can do up to 37". I think that's the biggie though.

Part of my being uppity with this particular post is that I have one software (just one, not a suite) that costs $15k. Every 2.5 yrs when they come out with a new version upgrade cost is $1k. $360 hardly registers as that big of a deal for what it can do considering how much it costs us to have a computer hooked up to our trucks and to think how much time that it could save you if you fix your truck yourself. The program isn't the end all be all, but it sure does help.

Time and time again it has been shown that going cheap with the 6.0 ends up costing you big time.

 

Tex is right send some money and get something that works . I have a hypertec max energy programer cost 370 and it will pull codes off these trucks but i didn't buy it for that use . I used to think that when these truck had codes they would have a check engine light but no . Have only had one light ever my first ICP 2285 code , and no lights sense . I have a actron scanner cost 129 bucks will not pull codes unless there is a light . Also advance will scan for you but i was there the other day and they were using the same actron i have.

 

tex sorry but thats not always true. just did 2 sticks in one truck today. ran like *** all the time. only code was for GPCM fault.

 

hey I dont understand how you people do things with a $300 scan tool.
ids +vcm= $10,000
so stop cring ya'll

 

No, you won't always get a code.

I think one of 2 conditions have to be meet for a code.

1. Typically something that is really severe will trigger a code

and

2. Something that happens at such a level (not the severe level, but basic threshold level) through a few drive cycles (depends on the code as to how many drive cycles) and it should trigger a code.

If either one of those aren't met, I'm sure there wouldn't be a code.

But there typically is a code and usually the code should be able to point you in a direction to go.

The program isn't an end all be all by any means, but it is definitely a "tool" worth having.

 

Isn't that the truth. But you shouldn't be crying either, I still have 5k more then you, but it's not vehicle software.

 

You have Generic Codes and Manufacture Specific Codes

Most cheap code readers get Generic codes as most are Emmision Relaited

The AE with Ford Enhanced is the way to go

But NOT an ABSOLUTE MUSTYou could Go OLD SCHOOL and do A Ballon Test

You can Also Pull Injectors and Put a Vacum on them they should hold VACUM

Just alittle more Work the Old School way whatever