So last week I did the blue spring upgrade and finally hooked up my fuel pressure gauge. I noticed the other day that I was smelling fuel inside the cab. I had my daughter give it some throttle while I was looking at the fuel pressure sender and much to my surprise the fuel regulator cover was leaking! In addition the threads on the adapter and the threads on the sender looks to be soaked in diesel. When I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge I get a constant 62-65psi at idle and normal driving. When I hit the throttle the gauge jumped down to 40psi so I let off because I know 45psi is the recommended minimum. I have the SCT Xtreme Street tune from innovative so I'm sure that could have something to do with the fuel pressure dropping so fast. I'm wondering if the small fuel leak from the regulator cover would affect the fuel pressure that much??

Also, I need the keyhole o-ring for the regulator cover. I was in a rush when I put it back on and I must have ruined the o-ring. I called the stealership and they said they can't just order the o-ring, they would have to order the entire blue spring update kit....... somehow I find this to be BS. Does anyone have the part# for that o-ring??

After I replace the o-ring I will make sure all of the fittings are tight and go from there. Now I just need to figure out my extended start time issue and why the hell my block heater isn't working.

As far as the cold start issue.....I'm lost. I did a load test on the batteries, did an ohm test on the glow plugs and checked the voltage on the FICM with normal numbers everywhere. I had the STC fitting replaced with the update when I did the head studs and EGR delete. From what I've searched the stand pipes dummy plugs problems would cause it not to start at all when it's hot or at least smoke on start up and my truck doesn't do any of those things. I'm not sure if the o-rings on an injector is leaking. I'm not sure if I can pull the injectors myself to see if the o-rings are bad. Is that something I can do myself?? I would imagine I would have to remove the valve covers for that....is this correct?? I would really love to be able to turn the key and have the truck start normally. I've been dealing with this for about 8 months now and don't have a whole lot of funds to be able to do the injectors and I have no idea how much the stand pipes and dummy plugs are or if that is something I can do myself. I'm at my wits end with this and I am really seeking a solution to these few problems........ Merry Christmas guys, hope I can nail this problem down...

Thanks.

 

Regulator cover gasket only: Ford#3C32-9C065-AA

 

Good info on injector replacement.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=572658

 

Thanks a lot for the part# and the link. Does this sound like an injector problem to you? Also, would the leak from the regulator cover affect the pressure reading that much or is this another issue I am going to have to address?? Thanks again!

 

I wouldn't think the leak would make that big of a difference in fuel pressure. How old are the fuel filters? A bad tank of fuel can mess them up. Do you see oil pressure on the instrument panel gauge during cranking? Some aftermarket oil filters with the adapters and caps can cause starting problems. If you know the filter is Motorcraft/Racor, make sure the cap is Ford also. Injector stiction is a problem sometimes also, but the truck often starts quickly but runs ruff till it warms up.

 

I have an aftermarket oil filter cap because that is where my oil temp sender is located. My fuel filters have less than 4,000 miles on them. I have not looked for the oil pressure light on startup. If the light is on what will that tell me? Thanks

 

It is normal to registers oil pressure while cranking and before starting on longer crank. Indicates low pressure oil system is moving oil and has somthing to press against (no major leak). I was thinking of oil gauge, but light would go off also I think.

 

Oh ok. I guess there is no way of telling if there was a high pressure oil leak that easily

 

Easiest way is to monitor ICP and IPR with an OBDII device (ScanGauge or similar). This could verify HPO leaks but doesn't tell where. Injector o-rings can certainly be done in the driveway, but once in that far, standpipes/dummy plugs seems like a good idea. I don't have part #'s, but I believe the injector kits are about $7 each and the standpipes/plugs are around $120 for the kit. STC fitting done already helps a little.

Here is a copy of the hard start/no start worksheet:
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_088.jpg
Note it takes you to step10 if EOT is below 60*

 

You can easily run out of fuel with the right tune on a stock fuel pump even with stock injectors.

 

Thanks Rusty. That is helpful...
NCpartsman.... What is the fix for the fuel issue? Is a FASS fuel system my only option and if so would I be over pressure at idle and normal driving?

 

With an electric fuel pump your fuel volume is constant at all times. It doesn't change unless you have some kind of restriction in the system (dirty filters, etc.) Some pumps obviously provide more volume than others. Pressure is controlled by the system regulator.

I would check out the Airdog 2. IMHO a much better pump, pressure regulator, and separator system than FASS. MUCH better customer service also.

 

Thank you!! I'll check it out