I have 2007 Harley f250 6.0psd. It has afe intake, banks exhaust, juice with attitude, and 4.56's for the 6" lift and 37" r20 rocks tars... 85k miles. Just got it added those things.... And this truck is far from reliable. Everyone is saying give the ford a chance(I'm a dodge guy) so I am willing but running out of money quickly in repairs. Ford told me I have 4 bad injectors hence my long cranking time. What do I need to make this thing reliable. I have been searching for weeks for good intel, unfortunately everyone has an opinion on the Internet and have steered me wrong in the past. So I need some REAL advice. I have found that the injectors crap out frequently due to low fuel pressures... How true is this and if I get the fass pump will it alleviate future injector failure? What else can I do? Also how sure fire is the egr delete, I don't have egr problems.... Yet. I'm not looking for a race truck just a reliable daily driver. So far I have had one problem after another.

Thanks in advance!

 

Info here might get you going:
Budget 6.0L Build - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
-Its consistent with the advice from those in the know here on FTE. You are in the right place for good solid advice. Also check out the tech folder. Lots of good info there.

 

Some of the mods you have done are the reason to it that. The Juice with Attitude is by far the single worst mod that you can do in my opinion. If you want to read a novella from me on that, I can expound on that if you want.

Lift and tires add stress to a truck that is already stressed out due to the Edge "tuner". I'm not a lift and tire person anyway, that's the mod that keeps on costing you.

Forget the legality of that for a second (regardless if you have testing or not, it's illegal to do the delete in the US), the EGR "issues" are symptoms, not a root cause. I personally know of 3 people that have either deleted or bypassed their EGR and still had issues with their oil cooler. So no, it's not for 100% sure fire. It's a symptom, not a cause.

I'm running over 500 horses and I still have the Ford OEM system and it's the original one at that. And my truck falls into the EGR years that people think are the worst of them all. Go figure.


508 horses at all four rear wheels with original factory EGR system and I would stack it up against any of them as far as reliability goes.

As for alleviating future injector failure, nothing is a sure thing. However, an a/m bigger fuel pump will help, but it won't eliminate the dead-heading(fuel starvation of the last two injectors) on these engines, unless they changed the design of these pumps. For that, you would want something like ITP's Fuel Regulated Return. Now the FASS system is still a return, but it doesn't eliminating the dead-heading. You can couple both of these mods together(I have) and get it to work. When you get an a/m fuel pump make sure you have the 60 PSI spring, I don't think it comes with the FASS unless you ask for it, unless they have changed that as well.

 

The 4.56's should have brought the strain of the lift and tires back to stock... At least in theory for the transmission sake. I have been running no tune on the juice just using it for the gauges at the moment, I do agree possible baseline problem. I heard there was an update to the 6.0 injector problem in being a update kit for the fuel pump. Supposedly this was found to be a root cause from ford. This kit brings the fuel pressure to a constant 70psi. Or do you think an aftermarket pump is the way to go? If so how is the install? Only thing I am not willing to do Myself is my heads.... Not enough time and patience.
To recap, this should make it fairly reliable?
Arp stubs, decking the heads with new gaskets
Egr delete
Update fuel system
Replace already sticky injectors
Ohhh and better tuner... Any recommendations?

And here is my averages at 65mph/ 2150rpms:
700egt
150trans
180ect

Again with no tune

Thanks again

 

At 180ect your thermostat is getting tired. It sounds like you need to get the blue spring kit and some rev-x for your injector problems. Dump the edge juice and get a gauge. Make sure you change your fuel filters every 10k and use only motorcraft filters (important) .

 

What are your RPMs rolling at doing 70?

EDIT: I noticed that you mention speed and RPMs further down. Thing is, now that you have lower gears, you are stressing it out the faster you go, because it's having to work beyond it's sweet spot on the RPM range. Based on what you mentioned below, the sweet would probably be around 60 MPH.

That's pretty much what I'm talking about with regard lift and tires, it just keeps on costing and costing and costing. Sometimes the cost isn't the monetary since, but what you can actually do without adding work(stress) to the engine and other parts.


I would just get the Insight then.

Injector starvation is a dead-heading problem. The updated spring kit would provide constant fuel pressure, but you still have the dead-heading design.

Depends on what gaskets you get. Stick with stock ones. I using them and I have more then 500 ponies under my hood.

Besides the legality of it, it is fixing a symptom not the root cause. You are adding a lot of headache (especially considering in the two areas that I live in are using mobile detection sites more and more and diesels are more or less exempt from testing but not the fines) for not much return.

Should work, just depends on what else you have going on, but that can be said for anything.

Just depends. Some people have called injectors "sticky" when it was something else. Doesn't happen often, but it does.

Just make sure it does custom tuning. That's the biggest suggestion that I can make, oh, and it doesn't have something like "shift on the fly".

Ok, you mention speed and RPMs here. Can tell you have the low gearing. With 4.30s going 65 I'm at the sweet spot of 2000 RPMs.

Unrealo, I don't see how you can say that 180° on the ECT is an indication of a tired thermostat. If that temp is an indication, then mine must be catatonic. I see 180° during the winter no problem.

 

The stock Ford thermostat is marked 89C to 104C (192F to 219F), so ECT shouldn't be much cooler than 190F nominally. Mine was running around 180F and I replaced it and now I'm pretty steady at 190F on the highway with no load.

 

I guess I'll have to have my DashDAQ on ECT to compare with my a/m gauge a little more then I used to. Make sure that the factory sensor is up to snuff then.

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