Got a question for you deisel guru's out there.

I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.

I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.

Now finally to my question.....


Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?

Thanks in advance
TJ

 

Honestly, I wouldn't hesistate one bit to buy them if it is a good deal. The chances of overboosting damaging an injector is pretty much nil. With 8,000 miles on them, I wouldn't bother with anything except for installing them unless you are wanting them enlarged to performance injectors. The HEUI injectors in the 6.0 are very resistant to damage under catastrophic engine failure; fuel is the only real source of weakness.

And yes, the injectors are most likely the cause. I would also replace all 8 glow plugs (they aren't expensive) and possibly the glow plug control module, at that mileage, while you are at it. The glow plugs can *sometimes* be the cause of such symptoms, but typically the injectors.

YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST REPLACE THE O-RINGS AND COPPER COMPRESSION WASHER ON THE INJECTORS BEFORE REINSTALLING IF YOU ARE DOING THE WORK YOURSELF; YOU MUST ALSO TORQUE THE INJECTOR HOLD DOWN TO THE CORRECT TORQUE SPEC USING A LONG SHANK T40 TORX BIT.

That is in red bold because every bit of that information is absolutely critical. Secure 8 packs of O-rings, a long shank t40 bit and a torque wrench before even attempting.

The torque requirement for the injector hold down is 24 lb-ft (I usually torque to 26) and the part number for the injector O-ring kit is part number 3C3Z-9229-AA at your local Ford dealer; you will need 8 of those- they are only a few dollars per pack.

And yes, the injectors from an 05 will fit in an 03 truck (even though the 03 truck technically uses a different part number injector). Some people might get technical and tell you otherwise; but the actual geometry of the injector is the same and they are totally interchangable if you are doing them in sets of 8.

 

Awsome that was the info I was looking for. I already have all the above mentioned tools. Thanks for the torque specs and all. I cant seem to find a shop manual for the 6.0L.

Thanks PSD

 

Fire me off a PM with your email (make sure you don't put the @ symbol in it so the filters don't kill it) and I'll email you PDF copies of the shop manuals.

First thing you have to do is dig your way to the valve covers. All I can say is, just start removing parts. For ease of doing this, I would remove the hot side intercooler tube, passenger side inner fender liner, air filter assembly (all the way up to the turbo will be neccessary; when you pull off the last peice, it will have the CCV tube attached to it- manuever it so that it has rotated 90 degrees in the valve cover then pull up). Drain the coolant and remove the degas bottle, the drivers side battery and battery tray.

On the passenger side, remove the glow plug control module and bracket and then the transmission filler tube... all of it is fastened with 10mm nuts. After the coolant has drained, remove the clamp and heater hose from underneath the alternator...there will still be some coolant left in it so keep a rag underneath. From there you should be able to get to the valve cover bolts...be sure and mark the position of both the BOLTS and the STUDS on both valve covers because there are positions for both. Once the valve cover is off, you will see the high pressure rail sitting underneath. There is a hydraulic line with a quick disconnect fitting going to it- chances are you won't have the tool to remove the line, but don't worry about it. Simply remove the 8mm bolts holding the rail down; pull it up, let the oil drain out then lay it over to the side out of your way with the line still attached- not a big deal.

Pretty much same procedure on the drivers side. Remove the nut to the oil dipstick tube, but instead of pulling the entire tube out, just rotatate it down and out of the way. Mark the position of the valve cover bolts and studs again, and remove. The Fuel Injection Control Module has 10mm bolts holding it down in the back, and 13mm bolts on the front. Remove them and pull the FICM up so you can see the connectors on the back. There is a tab that needs to be pushed on both the top and bottom of each connector to remove it; wrap both hands around it, push from either side, and pull out...they can be quite stubborn. Once it is off, there are 10mm nuts holding the mount down, simply remove.

To disconnect the injector from the rocker carrier- there is an electrical connection at the top of each cylinder head. You will see a c-shaped metal clip locked onto a plastic connector on the outside- either mash this clip IN while you wiggle on the connector to release it, or simply pull the clip out and lay it to the side...either way works. Remove the connector. Now there are two tabs holding the actual injector wiring into the top of the rocker carrier- from the outside, take a shallow well 18mm or 19mm socket and rock it back and forth on top of the connector. This will release it from the head and you will see it slide down a bit- then just reach inside and wiggle it the rest of the way out. From there, take your T40 bit and remove the injector.

Remove the old o-rings and compression washer from the new injectors. Use a 9mm deep well socket to push the new compression washer over the nozzles and install the new o-rings. You can use either vasoline or engine oil to lube the injector o-rings. Oil is a little less messy but will smoke on initial startup for a minute or two.

Put the injector hold-down clamp up against the injector with the tab locked in, and install both down into the cylinder head together. You'll need to wiggle it a bit and you will feel both the injector fall down into its hole and the bolt of the hold-down start in its tapped hole. Run it the rest of the way down then torque 24-26 lb-ft. Shove the electrical connector back through the rocker carrier hole until you feel it click (takes quite a bit of force) then reinstall the injector harness connector back into the top...don't rotate the harness connector while installing or you could bend the pins.

Make sure there is oil in the top of each injector (I usually just take a half quart and dump all over the top of the injectors) then carefully place the rail back down over the injectors, with the joints into the tops. There is a torque spec for the 8mm rail bolts, but it is not critical...just torque snugly with a 3/8 ratchet.

Reinstall the valve covers and put the truck back together.

When you go to crank it back up, it will take 15-30 seconds of solid cranking to fire it up- don't be alarmed. Don't stop halfway through, continue to crank until it starts.

If you want to change the glow plugs- there is a small trick to removing the glow plug harness. The harness is located right at the bottom of the aluminum portion of the cylinder head- use a peice of 16 gauge wire to pull out the connector. There is a ring at the bottom of each connector, wrap the wire around it then yank the wire with a pair of pliers. The glow plug is 10mm, just remove and reinstall.

 

I have a question about the crankcase to head tube. Is there only one tube in the rear? I dont have a manual for this thing and need to finish the #1 injector install. There is a port on the front of that hp oil manifold but it looks like a drain back to the crankcase.

 

never mind. got it

 

Matt from spartan has probably got the most knowledge of the 6oh of anyone you're likely to come across.. i would strongly recomend taking any advice he offers you, and i am grateful that i got to meet him and have the opportunity to have him build my motor.

 

hello the dealer told me that i have six bad injectors. ihave a 2003 f350 i am going to do the job my self. i am going to do all eight might as well. i was searching for info on the injectors. i keep finding different numbers. the tech told me...The 2003 and some early 2004 models are totally different in alot of ways. The high pressure oil system on my truck is very different from the late 04-07 vehicles. You need the correct injectors for your 2003 truck.
so now what do you think about this? you said that it wont matter if i replace all eight. im confused. please advise. also any info or photos that you know of to make this task go smoother please let me know. thanks alpine.

 

Thought these videos needed to be in this Tech Folder thread:

6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Injector Replacement, part I - YouTube Video 1 of 4
6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Injector Replacement, part 2 - YouTube Video 2of 4
6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Injector Installation Part 3 - YouTube Video 3 of 4
6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke - Injector Replacement Part 4 - Complete Assembly - YouTube Video 4 of 4 (12 minutes in, it is on replacing the HFCM)
6.0lit Econoline Injectors replacement HD - YouTube Econoline Injector replacement

 

I just replaced a couple injectors not to long ago. The hardest part was getting the last 2 valve cover bolts off on the pass. side near the a/c box. I didnt have any swivel sockets but you definately need that long torx socket.

 

Need help with a 07 f350 6.0 hard start in warm temps please contact me vanman@ec.rr.com

 

Hey there, Not sure how to send a PM in this forum, but I read your post about the injectors. I have a 6.0 Powerstroke Excursion with similar problems as posted before, 175K miles on the drive train.
cleaned out the EGR and still, after running on interstate, coming to a stop, engine gets very quiet and has no power, once it recovers it bellows black smoke.
I have use injector cleaner in the last couple of fills, and added Slick-50 to the oil, to free up injectors, but progress is slow, if at all.

Would you mind sending me a copy of the shop manuals you mentioned above? Thanks.

 

Let me search my computer to find them been awhile. This post in this forum is couple years old.

 

Slick 50 on a 6.0 is just a waste of time and frankly it's not good to run PTFE in this engine(or most for that matter)
Get some Archoil in there along with a fresh oil change to 5W-40 syn. Slick 50 is likely making things worse. Anything that says "as seen on TV" has no place in a 6.0
You will likely notice a difference, and buy some more time.
Motorcraft oil filters only

 

I'm about to tackle the #2 injector (125,000 mile) and a blue spring update on the fuel reg. on my 03 f250. Been doing a lot of research on how to work deeper on this engine after paying 10-12 thousand in repairs over the years for every thing from head gaskets to hp oil and fuel pumps, egr cooler, complete ac, all injectors and hot no start from a gasket at oil cooler. i didn't see any mention about the 2 plugs at the hp oil manifold being removed here. am i missing something. seen it in the vids. also looking for torque specs on all nuts and bolts. where do i find those spec and maybe a tool list? thx and great write up and site.