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Batteries - Save some $$$

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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 06:51 PM
  #31  
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Utah Jake
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I bought a pair of Energizer batteries from Sam's in June of this year. This week I had one fail. Taking it in I all ready for some sort of fight. I explained the deal and the battery guy said no problem. He took my 5 month old battery and gave me a new fresh one, no charge, no hassle.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 07:56 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Utah Jake
I bought a pair of Energizer batteries from Sam's in June of this year. This week I had one fail. Taking it in I all ready for some sort of fight. I explained the deal and the battery guy said no problem. He took my 5 month old battery and gave me a new fresh one, no charge, no hassle.
Five months isn't too bad, but consider squawking some more at the local Sam's and get the other one changed as well. Batteries should always be replaced in pairs because the good one will be drawn down trying to get the other one up to its level (thereby shortening ITS life).

Ed
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 09:38 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 5030tinkerer
Hard and fast specs are difficult, but a good rule of thumb is to recognize the following battery charging table and understand that our FICM's are INCREDIBLY sensitive to inadequate supply-side voltage. The main strain comes with cold temperatures, but also with cranking just generally and the minimal voltage available to it before the alternator kicks in. This is why so many FICM's fail this time of year.

State of Charge -Voltage-Specific Gravity
100% -12.7- 1.265
75% -12.4- 1.225
50% -12.2- 1.190
25% -12.0- 1.155
Discharged -11.9- 1.120

The float voltage on my batteries in my truck were 12.45. I put them on a Battery MINDer for three days each. Twenty four hours after charging, they each sat at 12.71. Then, a few days went by and they tested 12.19. They evidently just gave up the ghost.

12.19 may not sound too bad until you realize what that voltage drops to during cranking and then further take into consideration what the voltage stays down at while waiting for the glow plug cycle to finish so that the alternator can kick in again.

I took a call from a west coast repair shop owner last week in which he indicated that he had put THREE BRAND NEW FROM FORD FICM's in a customer's truck over the last two months and was now looking to put in #4. He wanted to get some ideas on what the issue possibly could have been. I asked about the batteries. He said that their float voltage was about 12.2, but that they dipped down to 10.5 during cranking. I suggested that he replace the batteries. My guess is that his issues are behind him.

I try to ensure that my batteries stay above 12.5 float and have them not dip below 11.8 or so during cranking. I'm sure, though, that the Ford spec is more forgiving. I'm curious to see how my new batteries perform.

Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
I know... old thread... but .... GREAT INFO, ED!

I thought there may be some other folks who may benefit from bringing this thread back. I will definitely be checking voltages of my batteries against your numbers, and most likely buying a new set. THANKS!
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 02:48 PM
  #34  
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I had two AC Delco 65-7yr 850cca batteries under the hood that were about 2.5 years old. During cranking the voltage would drop to around 9.x.

Replaced them with brand new Motorcraft BXT-65-850s, and the voltage now drops to low 10.x's during cranking.

I measured both batteries right on the battery terminals while someone else cranked the truck over.

I was hoping for 11.x volts during cranking. Should I start checking/adding some ground cables? Has anyone else experienced this? Should I be concerned?

Seems like I spent a lot of cash for very little gain.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 04:35 PM
  #35  
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I'll be interested to see what others say. I know I never see the 9.x volts, even when I had one battery that was bad. But then, I do see the upper 10's with new batteries, and I am in a moderate climate.

Regarding grounds, I think you would want to start with loosening and inspecting all the ends, cleaning, and reconnecting.

I've seen starter motors that draw too much current for design spec. Usually because they are dragging internally. But I don't know about that on these 6.0 starters. Haven't heard of one around here, yet.
 
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