What is the process to test the batteries with respect to FICM health. Specs too, please.
Do I just use a current tester? Are there load criteria to test under?
I have the original batteries that came with my 2005 Super Duty, bought new in October of 2004. Sounds like I have been living on the wild side based on some of these posts, i.e. two year replacement cycles...

 

Best is to use a battery load tester. You want to disconnect the negative lead from one battery, and load test that one. Reconnect the lead, then repeat on the other battery. I don't own a tester, but most shops will test them for you for free.

You can tell rough condition just by checking voltage after the truck has sat overnight. Battery voltage in good condition should be 12.5 to 12.7 volts (wet lead/acid battery). That can give you a clue, but you really need a load test.

 

Costco batteries in AZ are now Interstate, don't now the price.

 

The buyers at Costco do a great job finding quality products and they stand behind their product without question. That's where I get all of my batteries and is where I will get my Super Duty batts when the time is here. Which is very soon approaching, I'd imagine.

 

Hard and fast specs are difficult, but a good rule of thumb is to recognize the following battery charging table and understand that our FICM's are INCREDIBLY sensitive to inadequate supply-side voltage. The main strain comes with cold temperatures, but also with cranking just generally and the minimal voltage available to it before the alternator kicks in. This is why so many FICM's fail this time of year.

State of Charge -Voltage-Specific Gravity
100% -12.7- 1.265
75% -12.4- 1.225
50% -12.2- 1.190
25% -12.0- 1.155
Discharged -11.9- 1.120

The float voltage on my batteries in my truck were 12.45. I put them on a Battery MINDer for three days each. Twenty four hours after charging, they each sat at 12.71. Then, a few days went by and they tested 12.19. They evidently just gave up the ghost.

12.19 may not sound too bad until you realize what that voltage drops to during cranking and then further take into consideration what the voltage stays down at while waiting for the glow plug cycle to finish so that the alternator can kick in again.

I took a call from a west coast repair shop owner last week in which he indicated that he had put THREE BRAND NEW FROM FORD FICM's in a customer's truck over the last two months and was now looking to put in #4. He wanted to get some ideas on what the issue possibly could have been. I asked about the batteries. He said that their float voltage was about 12.2, but that they dipped down to 10.5 during cranking. I suggested that he replace the batteries. My guess is that his issues are behind him.

I try to ensure that my batteries stay above 12.5 float and have them not dip below 11.8 or so during cranking. I'm sure, though, that the Ford spec is more forgiving. I'm curious to see how my new batteries perform.

Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com

 

The process to test them, btw, is pretty straight-forward. I just disconnect the negative cable off of one of the batteries and leave them sit overnight to level out. In the morning prior to cranking, I pop the hood and check the voltage on each battery with my volt meter. A general idea can be had by just testing one of the batteries in the morning without disconnecting one of them first, but that doesn't provide an indication of the battery's in relation to each other.

Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com

 

Hey Ed, are you getting my emails/PM's?

 

LOL--you think you've got voltage issues. I'm dealing with Sams on a set of red top Optima's. Standing voltage is 11.81--cranking drops to 9.19 but the truck still starts sometimes. I've had the batteries tested and they say they're "good" but I've been fighting this issue for 4 months now (hot and cold). Cranking this morning was 134 RPM's and 9.19 volts and the truck started right up but after a LONG glowplug soak while AE booted. Any suggestions on what my argument might be with these folks???

 

Optima's are made in MEXICO now and suck , they are not the batt they used to be.

 

That's where these are made......

The "good" news is that I finally found a bad battery. Bad news is that it's from Sams club and can't get it warrantied because I'm not the member and don't have a sams card that's valid because the owner's membership has lapsed and they won't do squat. What REALLY sucks is that he's in Afghanistan and can't do much about it right now because he's too busy dodging bullets (prayers please). I'll get it handled though......just hide and watch.

 

tim do you have a batteries + retailer near you. call them up and see if they will help with the red tops

 

Check your PM 2006powerstroke. I'll PM you here in a sec.

 

Re: the load test process. I hear you on the Optima's. I had these that need to be replaced load tested at an O'Reilly's just two weeks ago and they showed 97%. Kinda hard to see that as accurate with voltages dipping so low during cranking and cold running, heh?

 

hook up a few light blubs to each battey to drain off any serface charge befor taking them to be tested.

 

That was my problem. The battery only showed 50% charge and the testing tool wouldn't test it. The chinamart tool showed 227/900 cca. I have a different battery but unmatched battery in it and it's as happy as a lark at the moment.

Moe--no batteries + here. Just the generic parts stores and I have no paperwork to prove anything. The alternator is putting out a perky 14.2 now, no low voltage codes, and starting is good but since the temp is 78* outside it should be. As long as it has good voltage and gets momma back and forth her 4 miles one way to work it's all good and I'll deal with the BS later on. Like I say.......I DO have a plan.