Thank you guys for your input. I tried the following tests and got the results listed. Fuse U - functional w/power; Fuse I functional w/power; PCM Relay - Power at locations A and B, nowhere else could I get a reading and I interpreted B as a ground (grond) ?. All fuses here hot under the hood and in the cab except the illumination light fuse in the cab but the lights lit up anyway when tested. Also I had 2 - 5 amp fuses either at location K or G & F that were no hot but not identified either. The fuse box said to consult my owners manual, I almost got a laugh from that.
When I was testing the illumination lights fuse and turned on the headlights to brighten and dim them, a noise emanated from the speakers in the radio ? This isn't the first time I've heard a noise coming through the speakers when I wasn't touching the radio. Don't know what is going on here but I went from a truck that killed it's batteries in 48 hours to one w/a cut off switch that now has electrical issues and transmission issues which sprang up after I drove it home from the mechanics home.
I only have 191k miles on it, new tires, starter, alternator, elec. window motors, fuel tanks, fan motor, squirrel cage, batteries, brakes...I can't stand the $$$$ strain of a transmission, (it's on the second one now), and no one seems able to troubleshoot the electrical issue of the dying batteries, thus the kill switch. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks to all, this thing is killin' me.

 

I JUST WENT OUT TO DOUBLE CHECK AND THE 2 - 5 AMP FUSES WERE WHERE THE TWO 10 AMP FUSES SHOW IN LOCATIONS G & F. ALL OF THE RELAYS FROM L/D SIDE TO R/PASS SIDE WERE FOAZ-14N089-A OR AA WITH THE NUMBERS ABOVE THAT BEING 1271-3, 1240-2, 1271-3, 1241-3 ON THE TOP OF THE RELAYS. I'M NO GENIUS MECHANIC BUT I WOULD THINK THERE WOULD BE DIFFERENT NUMBERS FOR RELAYS WITH DIFFERENT FUNCTIONS BUT, I'M NO GENIUS.

 

 

Ford Mega Cab,
Wow, what a surprise to see all that info. I will do my best to see if it can help me solve this issue. Many Thanks for the trouble you went to in order to send it to me.
About the issues and the spike in voltage. Yes, this all happened, at least with the transmission not wanting to work in D, but in 2nd it takes off better, after I re-grounded my alternator and insulated the wires better. While checking the output of the alternator I noticed the positive clamp would arc over to the wires that lead into the plug that goes into the alternator so I wrapped them in elec. tape, painted them with liquid elec. tape and then I put 3 pieces of increasing size shrink tape on them to better insulate them and make a cover/cap for the positive wire since the original had all but rotted away. Once done I had 15.7 - 15.9 volts at the alternator which is fine. However when I cut the battery kill switch off so the batteries would not be used and would not drain out that night, before I could get into the cab my Alt. voltage had pegged at 18+ volts and the mileage LEDs were flashing and other elec stuff was going on like the windshield wipers just came on so I shut it off. It hasn't spiked like that since but I get 17 volts when it is on the highway. Out of the red zone but not by a heck of a lot.
Thanks a lot for your help, I'll go check out what I can before my PT appt. at 3:30. I'll post what I find out, regardless of it's success.