Yes. All the wires were stripped bare close to the connector. Looks like the pic of connector in this thread earlier on.

 

Ok Mark, I replaced the connector and installed a filter clip to retain the trans filter from unwanted falling. I also drained the torque converter bc I hadn't changed my fluid in awhile b4 this, and wanted to give it a good flush. Filled it back up and now it's making a clacking noise from the TC!!!?? What did I do wrong?

 

Update: clacking has gone away. But it is still wanting to stall when I initially put in D. Also, after driving and when coming to a stop, beginning to accelerate is slow. But then finally picks up. Also wants to stall when I stop. (Like at a red light for example). Works great in reverse though.

 

I think you don't have enough ATF. You're describing the symptoms of low fluid.

 

It's full. I think I actually overfilled it by half a pint. I'm getting ready to take some out now. But I will double check! Could a bad egr valve cause these symptoms?

 

Codes I'm getting now are;

558- egr valve regulator solenoid-circuit failure.
332-insufficient egr flow detected
452-vehicle speed sensor-signal too small
628- excessive converter clutch slippage
638-transmission oil temperature sensor-signal voltage to low

 

Ok. Anybody else have some advice!?

 

what are you using to get the codes from the transmission and where are you connecting the code scanner at?

I read a oBD1 scanner will work but it says excludes diesel trucks?

 

I'm using an act on code scanner that I got from oriellys bc my truck is older.
I'm connecting to the eec connection(I think that's what it's called) under hood close to fire wall on drivers side.

 

Damn phone! Actron code scanner

 

Gumper 123, I have a 92 F 250 7.3L....just this weekend I had a couple of items fixed, got in the truck the next day and it acted just like rmalottwtes30's truck with the slow to get moving, down shift to 2nd and it starts faster etc. However in my truck I noticed my tach. stopped working and the OD light was on and won't allow me to cut it off. As an aside I need to mention I did some work to get my alternator running and it went from 11 to 17 amps. When I used my kill switch for the batteries and let it run the voltage shot up, mileage LEDs started blinking etc so I cut it off. I am not sure because I couldn't find another comment from you on rmalottwtes30's thread but was your question one about the torque converter and if so, just how bad is that ?

Thanks

 

The problem that I was having on mine was due to an electrical connection on the transmission where the terminals and connection was corroded due to age, grime, mud, oil, road salt, ect. Once that was cleaned and replaced everything began to work like a top. So it's something to check. Good luck.

 

I'll give it a look, it's not like it was in new shape when I bought it. Everything is dirty, oily, greasy or leaking, more shop clothes I guess.

Thanks DR

 

You're describing what happens if the computer doesn't power up. There is a power relay under the hood that supplies the computer. I don't have a diagram to tell you where it is, but that's the place to start. Without power, the trans starts in fourth gear but will downshift to second gear if you move the shift handle to the 2 position.

 

When your tach doesn't work either,your relay is probably ok.Instead suspect a blown fuse at these locations: U and I as shown here:
Don't worry about this being for a gas engine specifically.The fuse locations feed the relay and tach just the same in our IDI diesel trucks.You'll find one of these is blown.If I wasn't so lazy I would look it up to find which one feeds the tach (I can never remember) but oh well,it's a 50/50 lol,you'll see it quick enough.Replace it and your tach along with trans power will both be restored.