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I will check the #1 pin tomorrow after work, then go from there....Is that the only one that should have power? Is it a constant power or key on, or truck running power?
Your meaning I need to check at the relay location or down at the solenoid plug I repaired?
I havnt been able to check the pin for power yet, but will get a chance today though. Someone on another forum mentioned the solenoid pack may be bad. Is it possible to test, and is the transmission going to need removed if so?
Ok I am getting power to the transmission, I am getting power out of the two pins in the right side of the picture, the top and lower one on the right.
I figured out how to test for codes using a digital multimeter. Now I just got to figure out how to read the codes.
I use a wire from the ground to the Self test input then use a multi meter with it set to continuity and go from the positive side of the battery to the self test output.
I put the go pedal to the floor then turn the key on, then I am getting a bunch of rapid flashes of the meter and pauses.
ok.let's see if i get these right.don't take these codes to the bank though ok.iv never read them before with a meter.so bare with me.....
11 = System checks OK.
56 = Transmission Oil Temperature sensor too high
13 = (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO)
(R) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
(M) ISC sticking, open ITS circuit or TP sticking
67 = Park/Neutral circuit fault
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit
(M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault
35 = EVP - (R) Engine RPM's too low to test EGR system
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor signal is/was high
PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor signal is/was high
It's not the MLPS. That may be bad, and it can cause problems, but it cannot make the trans start in overdrive, which is what you have.
The ONLY way that can happen is when you don't have a good connection to the solenoid body. You may have power at the connector, but you probably don't have power all the way to the solenoids or the ground wires to the solenoids are bad.
"You may have power at the connector, but you probably don't have power all the way to the solenoids or the ground wires to the solenoids are bad. "
notice Mark is leaning more towards the wiring to them (id agree too after looking at that plug.who knows how long those wires where left exposed and how deep the corrosion goes) rather than the solenoid(s) being faulty.
so,should you decide the wires are good,be sure to measure the resistance to them.......how i don't know though lol.the thing must come apart,or you do so at the pins perhaps.i was about to do this to mine,but didn't have to go so deep luckily.
Just got the solenoid pack and solenoid wiring replaced, and it is still not working! Im getting a little aggravated now. I keep thinking its something internal thats going to end up costing me big $$$.
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