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Heya Kevin!
That's an interesting idea, I've never seen that before.
My only thought on it is it's a one way, so you wouldn't get flow. However, maybe that gives it a more manageable heat level? Like 350° when it leaves the manifold, but at the end of the pipe, it's a more tolerable 200?
Hey AB. I'm glad you chimed in. I can't claim the idea as my own. I found it somewhere, so I give that original poster the credit, but I like the idea. I'm not familiar with the oem Ford heat riser on the log intake-exhaust manifold. How does that work? Is there flow through? or is heat by contamination?
It would be nice to come up with some sort of a useable system to tie the exhaust from manifold(s) to intake.
Here is something along the same line, exhaust heat to intake, but with a Chebby intake and a copper line to ... I don't know where. Maybe to a header?
How could the first image be made into a flow through?
As far as I can tell neither one would do much of heating the intake because of no flow through.
Once the intake as pressure how is any more hot exhaust going to get in?
Factory the intake & exhaust manifolmanifolds are bolted together and there is a valve that directs the hot gas to the intake when cold. Once hot the valve opens so not much hot gasses hit the intake.
Dave ----
As far as I can tell neither one would do much of heating the intake because of no flow through.
Once the intake as pressure how is any more hot exhaust going to get in?
Factory the intake & exhaust manifolmanifolds are bolted together and there is a valve that directs the hot gas to the intake when cold. Once hot the valve opens so not much hot gasses hit the intake.
Dave ----
I believe the opening is big enough so the hot gases can move in & out unlike a 1/4" tube or pipe where all the gas is coming thru it.
I am using hot water plate on the stock intake as I am running EFI EXH manifolds and have no issues be it 20*f or almost 100*f
I am also running the Carter YF carb with hot air asst. and to get hot air to the choke I used copper tubing wrapped around 1 of the manifolds.
I did have a little issue when the temp dropped to 20*f and choke not opening all the way.
My fix was to use header wrap around the copper tubing & manifold to hold in heat and that fixed it.
Dave ----
On the stock setup, I think with the intake and exhaust being bolted together, the distance is so short that there doesn't need to be a flowthrough.
In fact, it gets so hot that the bi-metal spring closes the valve when it gets too hot. But when you have some distance, and a pipe for it to flow through, I imagine it'd cool down quite a bit, but it'd still be toasty at the end.
Dunno! One would have to experiment.
I always thought a good idea would be to have thermostatically controlled electric heat, like a heating element/coil or the like. But could never really find something to make it work reliably.
On the stock setup, I think with the intake and exhaust being bolted together, the distance is so short that there doesn't need to be a flowthrough.
In fact, it gets so hot that the bi-metal spring closes the valve when it gets too hot. But when you have some distance, and a pipe for it to flow through, I imagine it'd cool down quite a bit, but it'd still be toasty at the end.
Dunno! One would have to experiment.
I always thought a good idea would be to have thermostatically controlled electric heat, like a heating element/coil or the like. But could never really find something to make it work reliably.
On the heating grid I want to say I heard Dodge Cummings used a air intake heating grid?
It would heat the incoming air to help on cold starts but I never had one to know for sure.
Dave ----
It would be easy to build your own if you had a drill press with a 3/4" drill bit and tap for that size hole for the fittings. I don't. The cost now to go to a machine shop would be exorbitant. So, I can't do it.
It would be easy to build your own if you had a drill press with a 3/4" drill bit and tap for that size hole for the fittings. I don't. The cost now to go to a machine shop would be exorbitant. So, I can't do it.
I maybe an outlier, but I installed the Off intake 7 years ago, installed the heater plate, and figured I would plumb it when I had cold running issues. Have yet to plumb it! Too, I live in an area that only freezes a couple of times a year.
I maybe an outlier, but I installed the Off intake 7 years ago, installed the heater plate, and figured I would plumb it when I had cold running issues. Have yet to plumb it! Too, I live in an area that only freezes a couple of times a year.
I live in Florida so it may be the same for me. But I would like to install one if I can buy one from someone. I can't find anyone to buy it from except for one guy in Canada. He doesn't ship to the US or doesn't ship to Florida.
Welcome to Raso Enterprises still posts they have 'em...I have no idea if this page is current. Hollister Road Machines shut down sometime in the last decade
Welcome to Raso Enterprises still posts they have 'em...I have no idea if this page is current. Hollister Road Machines shut down sometime in the last decade
Raso Enterprises states that they do not ship to my area in Florida. I assume that is because he is located in Canada.
I cant see it being that hard to make.
You dont have to have the bolt in divider as the water flow should go up to the intake floor and out the other port.
Mine is flat across the bottom other than the weld beads and I cant see that working as a divider.
2 fittings, a pipe tap and drill bit cant be that much.
Hard part for me would be the plate as I dont have anything here and dont know where I could find something to use around me.
Dave ----
I guess I could check there.
When I was doing the EFI manifold / log manifold I was working, truck driver with crazy hours, so if I could not buy it and bolt it on I had to think up something else. Now that I am retired dose give me time to do things but the truck is built now
Dave ----
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