First off, thanks to all that have responded to my silly questions...I'm sure I can speak for all the "new guys" and say your patience and information is greatly appreciated.

On to this week's dilemma...

We got the original radiator pressure tested, and it has 3 pin holes in it...the local (and only) radiator shop in the area said the holes are unrepairable, but they can recore it (and it will "last 25 years") for the sum of $522. I declined their offer.

I ordered a radiator from Autozone (for a 70's F100 Here's the Link to it), but it got banged up in shipping, and the spout locations were wrong. We sent it back.
Spout holes need to be: Top --> center to center/right, and Bottom --> right side.

I have the original 54' IL6 223 in the truck.
My budget for the radiator is $230.
Max radiator size is 27" tall, width is somewhat negotiable, but about 25" is preferable.
No problem moving bolt holes around to get it mounted...I just don't want to have to butcher the front of the truck to get a radiator to fit.

I've found a few options, and was hoping to get a few opinions:

Option 1:
Aluminum radiator made by Champion, available on Amazon and a couple other places for about $180. (+$30 shipping)
Here's the link to the one i think should work.
--Aluminum looks cool.
--2 row
--Very close or original size.
--Aftermarket for late 60's Ford CARS.

Option 2:
Copper and Brass Spectra from Autozone. $160, free shipping.****
Here's the link
--I like copper and brass
--3 row? (not sure)
--I little tall, and not as wide...but should work.

Option 3:
Copper and Brass Spectra from Autozone. from a 1970 F100. $194, free shipping****
Here it is
--I like copper and brass
--Size is closer to than above.
--Out of stock...no clue when/if they will get them back in.

**** I prefer to use Autozone...they offer $15 in gift cards for every $100 spent on ship to home orders. For the odds and ends parts AZ fine with me. I've never had a bad experience with them. Plus, I've gotten over $100 in gift cards that I've used for other stuff i needed....just by spending money I was going to spend anyway.

Anyone have opinions on the Aluminum radiators? Any advice on the Brass and copper? Am i missing something on the sizing that I don't know about? 2 row or 3 row?
Anyone find something else out there within my pricerange, that fits, and they are completely happy with?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

 

Did they show or tell you were the leaks are? Cutting and plugging 3 tubs, isn't bad as long as there hasn't been other tubs cut and plugged. If they are talking about recoring it that means the tanks are good... Also did they rod it or just boil it out and test it?

 

Here is a link to radiator discussion, might help ya or it might make your decisions tougher!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...h-a-302-a.html

 

Moe,
I think they just boiled it out and tested it. they didn't mention anything beyond the $522 to recore it..(aside from telling me it will last 25 years when they are done, and a new one would only last 5 years.)

Jeff,
That's the thread that got me to order the first radiator replacement, and spooked me a little on the aluminum stuff.....the CU318 radiator...vendor is out of stock on those, otherwise i'd have went that way i think.

I may have found one that is the happy medium as far as size goes, and fits the price range.
CU393 @ AZ.

 

You might want to call them and ask them how much it will run to cut and solder the bad tubes, I would tell them that you need to patch this radiator until you can afford to replace the core. In the early 80's, I worked at a radiator shop. As long as they think that you will be back they should do a good job on the repair... my upper tank has some small leaks in it... I just keep filling it up

 

Where do you live???

 

Bozworth; I have a 53 that has a 351W in it. If memory serves me correctly I purchased a 75 Dodge pickup radiator from Advance Auto Parts for 160 dollars and then had the local radiator shop move the bottom hose connection to the other side for 25 bucks. I only had to redrill 2 holes on the radiator flange the other 2 lined up perfectly.

 

Hillbilly Bob, the radiator recore quote was from central IN, where the truck is currently located. Once I get it to Texas next month, i'll be shopping around. (For $522, it better be gold plated and bulletproof)

After looking at the Dodge radiators, and then sorting through all 1,208 radiators listed on AZ site, I found the following candidates:

Criteria:
Close to the stock size of 20x22.
Inlet port: center to center/right side
Outlet port: right side
Under $200

CU524 $153.99
CU497 $$139.99
CU512 $148.99
CU969 $169.99
CU525 $146.99
CU922 $148.99
CU281 $194.99
CU411 $153.99
CU340 $142.99
Hon. mention:
cu527 $239

I think i'm going to try the CU512 model out of the mid 70's dodge pickup, thanks for the info Lakota!

 

Boz... you may have already gone a different direction, but my loss could be your gain. For your buget amount, I'll sell you a new, never intalled, still in box rad I got for my 223/F-100 project. It's this one 1953 1954 1955 1956 FORD TRUCK f 100 RADIATOR aluminum | eBay

Couldn't get the six banger to sit properly over my IFS, even with shims and a rear sump oil pan modification. Going back to a y-block.

So, anyway, this one will fit right, cool good, and look great. Let me know.

Brian

 

Brian,
Thanks for the offer! I wish I knew about that a couple days ago....if the dodge radiator so much as balks at sliding right in, I'll be contacting you about your radiator.

 

Howdy Y'all!


I am doing the same thing.

I want to replace my radiator in my 55 F-600. It's a 3-ROW core, copper/brass and I just got off the phone with a (real) radiator shop in Tacoma, Wa.

The guy told me he has to measure it because they order the core from a company locally (NW) that makes them to order, THEN they clean up the tanks and solder them back together. ($300-500)

I asked him about aluminum radiators and he said "you don't want to do that!!"

He didn't elaborate except that he said he can sell me one. (probably little cheaper)

The aluminum radiators are mostly ALL 2 row.


The downside of buying one from ebay or any other other mail order place is that if it leaks, you have to send it back. If a re-cored one leaks, you just drop it off and they fix it! I like that better.

I also know that a copper/brass radiator will resist corrosion and transfer heat better than an aluminum one. They're aluminum now because the the cores are ALL made overseas and they're cheaper (the cores......then someone welds together here to order)).

I think I would rather buy local from the local guys.

Cheers,


Rick

 

I have a '58 that I got last summer and it had no motor, trans, or radiator so I had to start from scratch. I put a 351 W in it and for the radiator I just measured the hole I wanted it to fit in and bought an aluminum one from summitracing.com with the same dimensions. As far as the fan goes I knew I wouldn't have room for the stock style so I also bought an electric fan and fan thermostat to go with it. It looks cool from the front and it performs better than the stock 1958 radiator ever would have. To me going back with a stock radiator was not feasible because they are very expensive plus the truck doesn't have the stock motor so I had no need to match the years up on anything. The aluminum rectangular radiator was a breeze to install. I just fabricated about four brackets(one on each side on the bottom to hold it up and one on each side about halfway up to keep it from falling into the motor) and hooked some universal radiator hoses up to it and I was good to go. To me, unless you are trying to make the truck period correct, the universal aluminum radiator is the best option.

 

Ok,


Back from the radiator shop!!


Sheesh! I shouldn't have spoke too soon I guess..... The $300-500 ended up being $575!

AND I decided to go with a 4 row "truck" style (original type, straight fins) top-shelf etc core.

It's going to be $640 + tax.

I asked fora additional explanation on the aluminum and he told that aluminum radiators are somewhat of a problem for older engines because of corrosion caused by electrolysis. They self destruct much faster I guess. My last radiator lasted around 60 years so I expect this radiator will work good and last along time!!

He also told me that he pressure checks at 20 PSI so a 13lb cap OK!


ymmv......




Rick