I think ill just try the bypass, maybe just the starter for now untill I can get some more info on the full power switch

 

its an idea, but requires rewiring a lot...which is not my strongpoint which is why I would do the cylinder lol.

 

To get into the column on these isn't difficult, just time consuming.

To pull the ignition (key) cylinder, simply push a 1/8" pin into the hole underneath the column, and with the key in it, pull the key cylinder out.

To get into the actuator, you need to remove the horn pad (screws mount it on from the rear of the wheel, I think 2, either phillips or torx, can't recall.)

Next I'd pull the wheel itself, use a wheel puller, there are a couple tapped holes to screw the pulling bolts into. Leave the steering wheel nut on, backed off to flush with the threads, to prevent damaging the threads.

The column trim needs to come off, there's a couple long screws from below to separate the two halves, they are phillips screws. Depending on the truck, it may be necessary to pop trim panels off the dash to each side, can't recall, this is all from memory.

Now that this is all off, it lets you take the electrical assembly off the column, for the turn signals and so on. No need to take it totally out, just undo it and let it hang out of the way.

With that out of the way, you can now start to access the actuator rack and related linkages.

All of this is from memory, so may need adjusted a bit. It will also vary depending on standard or auto, tilt steering or not, cruise etc. Take your time, pay attention to how things come apart, and it's not all that difficult. I've done them before as a 'rainy day' job, sit in the truck, parts and tools on the passenger seat, and work away.

 

Mine is on its way out, too. Sometimes the starter doesn't engage. The accessory position is hit or miss and lately more miss than hit. If I have the key in accessory (all the way back) and I move the steering wheel, everything shuts off. Recently it started not working at all.

 

glow plug and starter switch
<a href="http://s1095.photobucket.com/albums/i463/91dirtydiesel/?action=view&amp;current=switches.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i463/91dirtydiesel/switches.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

You forgot the labels: "Rockets" and "Afterburner."

 

Nitrous and ejection seat

 

I like those two options.


Allthough after my drive home from school today i would like to have some rockets that come out the front and blast the slow people off the road. by slow i mean they maxed out at 35mph in a 50mph zone.

 

so after running with the broken ignition that allows the gear selector to move even with the key out..would there be any chance of it "slipping" out of gear when its park (on a hill) ? and by the way those 2 switches were the easiest thing ive done on the old truck yet

 

i have a new problem / issue..not sure if its related but im guessing it is. I shift easy between Park and Reverse, and easy between Neutral and Drive. Going from reverse and neutral is very stiff and rough. I was at a gas station and i couldnt get it out of park or reverse. I had to really pull hard on it to get it to go into drive.

Finally i stomped on the brakes hard and yanked the shifter down in anger and it popped into neutral then drive. when i got home i tried going through all the gears and sometimes its smooth and sometimes its tight. Very random.

So you guys think its this whole column and igntion problem? or a tranny problem?

 

classic ignition actuator problems. part of the actuator is the shifter lockout.
when it breaks completely, it will leave you stuck in park.
that was why we told you to fix it properly in the first place.

 

Oh gotcha good to know, for now ill just leave it in neutral and drive till I can find the time for the full repair

 

I have an extra column if somone needs it late 80s to 90s tilt, blinkers work and ign. swtch is good.

 

Auto column or manual?

 

Auto column