hey guys id search this but my phone is pretty slow when it comes to the search feature,

anyways heres whats happening, when i put the key in the ignition its very stiff, almost to the point id need pliers to turn it. i took the battery negative off and tried to wiggle the ignition around to loosen it up. now the ignition will turn all the way to where it stops, without engaging the starter at the normal point, just goes past that point.

does anyone have a good write up on it? or any clues to what it could be?

thanks

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-switch.html

 

I think it may be FUBAR, with the key out I can move the gear select around, I can also move key 180 degrees with no reaction from starter....might do push to start

 

There is a wishbone shaped actuator, made aout of pot metal, that will bind up an will break. Sounds like you have this problem. It is not a hard fix, just time consuming and a pain in the a$$. The steering column has to be dismantled to get to it. The part that breaks is not that expensive, but like stated a pain to fix.

 

Would it be quicker/easier to do that or just get a new column?

 

i think im haveing the same problem as you, except mine still starts and runs as it should,

 

I guess i would just fix the one in the truck. that actuator is less than $20. This is the part https://napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul...+50028+2028036

 

my ignition cylinder is messed up to but it is still useable. i can be driving down the road and pull the key out of the ignition and everything still works just fine. while the key is out i can also turn the ignition off just like everything is normal. somtimes my ignition cylinder does not lock when i shut the engine off and i can pull the key out and start the engine and shift into drive or reverse just fine. i am in the habbit now of making sure the ignition cylinder is locked everytime i get out of the truck.

Sometimes it does not want to unlock though and i have to get a little aggressive with it.

 

Ok, I may be able to get a whole column for cheep, but if not then is there any exploded veiw of the column on how to take it out? I have a push to start button in my garage if I wanted to hook that up where would I connect to? Starter? Or relay?

 

Usually when the actuator breaks the radio wil still work, and the fuel selinoid on the pump will turn on when the key is in the run position. If this is the case, run a wire into the cab from the hot side of the fender mounted starter relay. hook that wire to one side of the push button,. Then run another wire from the other side of the push button to where the small wire attaches to the starter relay on the fender. Remove that wire, and hook the new wire to that terminal. When the push button is engauged it will activate the starter relay.

 

Lets see if this works, it is for a 96, so it will be a little different, but the principal will be the same. This is from my 96-99 repair CD. Section 11-04: Steering Column 1996 P800, F700, F800, FT900, B800 Workshop Manual

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Column Lock Actuator and Steering Wheel Lock Pin
Removal

Remove steering column shroud.






Item Part Number Description
1 3E715 Steering Column Lock Lever Actuator
2 3E718 Steering Wheel Lock Pin
3 11A599 Ignition Switch Actuating Rod
4 1522050 Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder (F-Regular Cab)
5 6022050 Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder (Bus/F-Cowl)
6 3E700 Steering Column Lock Housing Bearing
7 3E717 Steering Column Lock Gear
8 13B302 Hazard Warning Switch
9 13B302 Turn Signal Switch

Remove ignition lock drive gear.

Remove attaching nuts that hold steering column to brake pedal support.

Loosen ignition switch attaching nuts and remove ignition rod from the switch end.

Remove upper shaft bearing.

Remove ignition lock actuator rod and steering wheel lock pin assembly.

Remove and discard retaining clip at lower end of steering wheel lock pin. Remove steering wheel lock pin and lock pin spring from ignition switch actuator. Do not lose spring.

Installation

Install a new lock pin and clip, and the old lock pin spring in actuator casing.

Place column lock actuator and steering wheel lock pin in steering column.

Engage actuator rod into ignition switch. Do not tighten switch retaining nuts.

Install lock drive gear, lock bearing and snap ring.

Install lock cylinder with key in RUN position. Install with retaining pin flush with cylinder. Turn key to OFF position.

Install upper shaft bearing.

Adjust ignition switch.

Secure steering column to brake pedal support.

Install trim shroud.


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Edit the exploded view didn't come threw, which I was trying to post. The text is not what you want for the older style.

 

I will have a look see at what i can find tomorrow at school. If you want PM me your email and if i find a diagram i will email it to you since i don't have any way of posting pics here.

 

the problem with changing the column is you have no idea what condition the column from the junk yard is in. it may end up being worse than the one you already have.
when i did the 5 speed to auto swap, the column i got was total garbage. lucky for me i had 2 other bad columns laying in the scrap pile at work, and was able to make one good one out of the 3

 

The used one is from my buddy, idk condition. What I might do is try and get some toggle switches. I like the look of them too (with the flip up cover). I want to use one to hit the starter, one for the glow plug relay, and some for some front and rear fog lights. The big question is can I hook up one main switch for complete power to the truck? So a total of 5 switches

Thanks for the help guys

 

I can type my chilton manual's way of disassembling the column and removing the cylinder.