No accessory position?
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From: MN
No accessory position?
There is no accessory position on my sons 96' F-150 when I turn the key all the way backwards and I was wondering what the fix involves? I did a search on ignition switch replacement but I am not sure if this will take care of the problem. Thanks
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by TJS96F-150
There is no accessory position on my sons 96' F-150 when I turn the key all the way backwards and I was wondering what the fix involves? I did a search on ignition switch replacement but I am not sure if this will take care of the problem. Thanks
The problem you're having has to do with the ignition lock cylinder and key.
The ignition cylinder tumblers are worn down, the usual cause why it either binds up or won't turn properly.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Dec 17, 2007 at 06:28 PM.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by TJS96F-150
The key turns fine in the cylinder. He just can't listen to his stereo unless he turns the key forward to the on position.
If there is an accessory position, it's the lock cylinder that's bad, not the ignition switch.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Dec 17, 2007 at 06:48 PM.
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I would say that your switch has slipped a bit out of position down on the steering column or you need to replace the switch down there. I have a question. why is your kid not fixing this himself? It would be a good experience for him to figure it out.
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He is busy with homework, high school hockey, and chasing after the girly's. He does help me out when I need him to. When ever I fix anything he is right there watching so that he will know for next time. Someone mentioned a wire behind the cylinder that might be broke?
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Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The ignition switch (11572) itself has nothing to do with it.
Below the cylinder and key (11582) in the flange is a brass gear (D4AZ-3E717-A), flat bearing (D6AZ-3E700-A) and snap ring (D0AZ-3C610-B). I don't need a parts catalog to tell you thse three parts are the same from 1976 thru 1996.
Turn the key, the brass gear works with the "steering column lock actuator" (3E723) that controls the rod (11A599) to the ignition switch. If the brass gear is stripped, the ignition switch itself won't work, because without that brass gear...the rod won't actuate the switch.
Below the cylinder and key (11582) in the flange is a brass gear (D4AZ-3E717-A), flat bearing (D6AZ-3E700-A) and snap ring (D0AZ-3C610-B). I don't need a parts catalog to tell you thse three parts are the same from 1976 thru 1996.
Turn the key, the brass gear works with the "steering column lock actuator" (3E723) that controls the rod (11A599) to the ignition switch. If the brass gear is stripped, the ignition switch itself won't work, because without that brass gear...the rod won't actuate the switch.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Dec 17, 2007 at 07:14 PM.
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A common problem is the linkage going from the cylinder down to the switch is worn out. A way to find out is to take the switch of of the column and move it through the positions.
IF I remember correctly, ford put these on the underside of the column, just take of the lower dash cover and there are 2 torx holding the switch.
IF I remember correctly, ford put these on the underside of the column, just take of the lower dash cover and there are 2 torx holding the switch.
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From: MN
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
The ignition switch (11572) itself has nothing to do with it.
Turn the key, the gear works with the "steering column lock actuator" (3E723) that controls the rod (11A599) to the ignition switch. If the gear is stripped, the ignition switch itself won't work, because without that gear...the rod won't actuate the switch.
Turn the key, the gear works with the "steering column lock actuator" (3E723) that controls the rod (11A599) to the ignition switch. If the gear is stripped, the ignition switch itself won't work, because without that gear...the rod won't actuate the switch.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by Mr. Finch
A common problem is the linkage going from the cylinder down to the switch is worn out. what part of the linkage?? A way to find out is to take the switch of of the column and move it through the positions.
IF I remember correctly, ford put these on the underside of the column, just take of the lower dash cover and there are 2 torx holding the switch.
IF I remember correctly, ford put these on the underside of the column, just take of the lower dash cover and there are 2 torx holding the switch.
See my last post for the reason.
The problem exists with the cylinder and key, NOT THE IGNITION SWITCH. You can yank that lower dash panel out of there, replace the switch, the actuator and the rod, and guess what...the problem remains the same.
Back to the original question...does the ignition cylinder have an accessory position?
If it does, the ignition cylinder has gone bad. I sold hundreds of these parts over the years, and the same basic setup was used from 1970 thru at least 1996 and prolly later.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Dec 17, 2007 at 07:33 PM.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by superduty4x4
NumberDummy, there should be an accessory position- both my 92 and my 95 have had one.
References are important here, because some ppl won't believe anything you tell them. I usually type the parts catalog illustration and/or text reference with section and page number(s). Then the "Doubting Thomases" can go to their local dealer and see for themselves in the dealers parts catalogs. I use the same catalogs the dealers use..
Replace the ignition cylinder and key...problem solved.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Dec 17, 2007 at 07:39 PM.
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From: Newport, WA
I agree with you 100%. I still think if the OP were to wiggle stuff around enough he'd find it would go into the accessory position. If you can drop the column or otherwise get access to the rod that runs the ignition switch try this- take the ignition cylinder out (has to be in run position to do this- there is a small lock pin that is accessed through a hole in the plastic on the bottom of the steering column- push this pin with a pick or small screwdriver and pull the cylinder out). Once that is done, grab the rod that runs the ign. switch with your fingers or pliers and see if you can't get it to go into the accessory position. My bets are you can. Then just reinstall the key cylinder (keeping in mind it needs to be in the run position to go back in) with either the old one, or preferably a new one.