OK here's my problem. I'm the second owner of my 97 F150 xlt Lariat 4x4. I lost the one key that i had and need to find the key code to get a new one made. Where do I find this information other than going to a dealer? I keep hearing different things about codes or getting keys made from the vin# ...anybody know where I can get the code because I don't have a chip in the key so there isn't a need to have one programmed.

 

Call a locksmith, prob. less than $75.00 to come out and make You a key.

 

Tried that route already and add 100$ to that estimate and thats a starting point for them to come out. Which is why I am looking for the codes. It would cost around 25-35$ then. Thanks for the reply I appreciate the response.

 

Locked my only set at the time in my '97 years ago and tried going the dealer route, at that time they needed a title, two forms of ID and registration to even think about making me a key. Of course two of those things were in the locked truck. I seem to remember seeing somewhere that the dealer only keeps 5 years or so of records on making keys from a VIN but I may be wrong.

 

You are right the local dealership only goes back to '02. Close but no cigar..Thank you for your help. Looks like a locksmith is going to get richer today.

 

I know this has been posted somewhere but I'm desperate. It happens to be Christmas eve. I bought this truck a month ago and messed up not cutting a new key. Now lost the one and only. Whats next? The key was not a chip code key, just simple. Do I have to get the switched drilled then removed? Two dealers say they cannot go back more than 10 years with the vincode route. The truck is a 2000. Can a key be cut using the door tumblers? got to leave town for Christmas asap. Any ideas?

 

You can do yourself it in five minutes. if you have a rear slider window. Take out the rear window. Its only held in by the rubber molding. I bought some high strength window moving suction cups for 4 bucks each. First lube the molding with nothing but silicone spray. Any other lube will rot the soft rubber.
Start in an upper outside corner. Attach and pull "gently". you will see the corner start to bulge. Assist the outer lip to make it over the glass. Once she starts to slip around the glass your on your way. Only remove the amount of molding you need to create a gap big enough to use a hangar to trip the rear slider latch. If you have no rear slider, you might have to open enough to reach the door lock switch Remember, the door open switch is constant power (always live). Or handle release or even fish for the key set. It beats doing a hack job on the paint of the side doors. I got in my F-250 in less than 5 minutes. Key in ignition, battery dead, so no key-less entry and hood of course locked from cab, so no boost battery. This however might not have been an option in severe cold conditions as the rubber would have been a brick.
ANY CERTIFIED AAA TOW GUY can and will crack your drivers door for about 50 bucks up here in Canada, although we call them CAA.

 

i dont know what year truck you have, but mo 2002 rear window is a unit and is bolted to the cab wall. You might bust the lock on the slider to get in, but i dont think the window of mine is coming out of the rubber seal.

 

Dealer key codes available to service limited to 10 years through Ford.
Get the door open and pull the lock cylinder from the door.
Take it to a locksmith and have him cut a key.

 

Hotwire the truck and get driving. :-)

 

...huh.....I am confused...but you know me that is a normal sate of mind

 

But sometimes things are so clear.

 

Even if they look the same the ignition has more "cuts" than the door. The final cuts are guess work.
My solution. Visit a wrecker that cares more about crushing than parts. Cost for a used ignition with 2 keys, two door locks and a rear door lockset was 20 bucks. Mine came from a windstar mini van.
Next take a drill and drill the ignition. Tape the drill bit so it only goes 1 & 3/16 deep. This breaks the tabs and lets the ignition pop out without damaging the housing. Vacuum and blow out all the debris. It's all white metal and drills easy. Insert the new cylinder with the key in the slot. when it clicks remove the key. Your done with the ignition.
Next remove the door locks by slipping the u-shaped clips. Install the 2 new/used locksets. And finally remember you also got for 20 bucks a tailgate lockset. Now your tailgate, doors AND igniton are all on the same key, which they were not when you lost the darn key.

20 bucks and about 2 hours,,,,,, I'm happy!!!!

 

@murrydav I have a 96 Explorer with the same issue. I can get in the car however it's the ignition replacement I want to be sure about doing. Another user posted about the drilling but he also stated to remove the steering wheel.

As for the drilling, this is done where the key is supposed to go, correct?