Injector install.
6.0L injector replacement is not extremely difficult and does not usually require special tools, but is only recommended for those with at least a minimum of mechanical training. Please read the installation tips below to avoid common errors.
EVERY time an injector is removed / replaced the copper tip washer and o-rings MUST be replaced. Do NOT install two copper washers (Be sure the old one did not stay in the head.) CAUTION: The seal between the tip of the injector (where the copper tip washer contacts the head) is very critical. Make sure this area is clean, that only one washer is installed, and that the injector retaining bolt is properly torqued. If a leak occurs in this area, combustion gases will go up the side of the injector and will burn the lower injector o-ring. This in turn will allow fuel into the cylinder which, in a worst-case scenerio, can cause hydro-locking and engine damage. This is NOT a warrantiable condition.
Replacement time can vary from a few hours for a pickup to 8 for some van conversions.
Owners of 2004.5 and newer trucks should consider replacing the standpipe and dummy plug seals while the valve covers are off - leaks at these locations are common causes of hard hot starting. (See related items below.)
Torque on the injector retaining bolt is very critical! Earlier trucks require 24 ft-lbs, and later trucks, 26ft-lbs. Look it up for your truck!
'Quick' Removal /Installation Guide (NOT a substitute for your manual):
Remove valve cover
Remove 8 bolts that hold high pressure oil rail to rocker arm cover and pull straight up to remove. A special tool to disconnect the feed line from the rail allows you to remove the rail completely which is convenient.
After disconnecting the electrical connector, use a 19mm 12 point chrome socket to push the remaining portion of the connector body out of the rocker housing.
Loosen the torx bolt that holds the injector in place. This will unseat the injector - do not use air tools, and do not pry on the injector coils which will damage them. Also, be sure the copper tip washer does not stay in the head.
Reverse to install - be sure to lubricate all o-rings with engine oil before installation, and remember that injector hold down bolt torque is very critical. Seat high pressure oil rail by hand before tightening bolts. CAUTION: Not seating the oil rail properly when installing the rail back on the injectors is the #1 installation error. If the rail is not installed very carefully, the seals in the top opening of the injector will be damaged and high pressure oil leaks will result, ulitimately causing a no start (typically when hot) and other driveability issues. Seating the rail properly is not difficult, just be careful to work it into the injectors slowly and keep it sqaure so the seals are not damaged. Do not use force!
Upon starting the engine, it will run rough for a long time, until all the air gets out of the system.
you need 8 injector oring kits
just push in on the injector clips to unhook harness the clips stay captive in the harness
drain the upper fuel bowel before you pull injectors
once you get the HPO rail unbolted just twist the rail up out of the way no need to unhook the braded line
I also went 26ft/lbs on my injector hold downs make shure you blow them bolt holes out before you tourque them in there a few have not done this they had problems
I will find some more info for ya
I didnt undo the oil rail at the braded line like in first step it will twist out of the way far enough with out unhooking it


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If its eating injectors you need to check fuel psi
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