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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: colorado
here:
Injector removal/replacement:
With re-development of the injector o-rings, early assembly mistakes, as well as problems with fuel contamination, this job is probably one of the most common repairs.
When replacing injector o-rings, it's recommended that all the injectors be resealed using the most recent kits--F8TZ-9229-AA. When replacing injectors, use the correct parts for the given emissions--Federal F7TZ-9E527-ARM; California F8TZ-9E527-ARM.
Any time a valve cover is removed, the injectors hold-down bolts on that bank should checked for torque. Early engines from 94-95 where assembled with the injectors torqued to 106 in/lbs. This caused the potential for the injectors to work loose damaging the o-rings. If any injector hold-down torque is found to be less than 100 in/lbs, then all the injectors should be resealed. The correct torque on the hold-down bolts is 120 in/lbs.
On 94 and early 95 F-series with air conditioning, half the evaporator plenum must be removed to access the #7 injector and to make removing and installing the RH valve cover easier. On 95-97, the A/C vacuum reservoir can be removed instead. 99's only need the intercooler piping removed. To remove the valve covers on the Econoline, the A/C compressor and alternator have to be removed.
The biggest concern on this job is the prevention of internal engine damage caused by oil or fuel entering the cylinders and resulting in a hydraulic lock of the engine. I purge the oil from the rails in the head by removing the oil supply hoses and the two rear 5/8" hex plugs from the tops of the heads (the 99 engine requires a special tool), and gently blowing the rails out with compressed air. There are actualy two aluminum plugs inside the valve covers for this purpose, but they are usually frozen and "round off". On the back of each head there is a fuel rail drain that has a 1/4" square drive for a ratchet. If you can access them, unscrew each one full turn. If you can't, don't worry, you can deal with fuel in the cylinder(s) easy enough later.
If you haven't removed the valve covers already, do it; also remove the gaskets and Under Valve Cover harnesses, taking care not to drop the injector connector seals on harnesses with plastic locks (the harnesses with wire flip-locks don't use seals).
Remove the spill-spouts from all the injectors you are replacing/servicing. If you don't they will get damaged.
If you are removing more than one injector on either bank, allways remove the rear-most injector that is being replaced/serviced first. This will ensure that any oil or fuel in that head is isolated in one cylinder. Example: if you are replacing injectors 1 and 5, remove #5 first.
Remove the first injector by removing its lower/outer hold-down bolt, then sliding the hold-down up towards the center of the engine. Carefully pry under the hold-down with a bar to lift the injector from its well and remove it from the engine. If you are servicing any injectors on the opposate bank, remove the rear most one to be serviced/replaced in the same way.
Remove any fuel or oil that may have entered the cylinders by bumping the engine over by hand or with a remote starter. Use cardboard over the valve train to minimize the amount of spray from the cylinders. Opening the fuel filter drain will pervent any more fuel from entering the heads, and having the supply hoses removed will do the same for the oil.
With the rear most cylinders purged, all the remaing injectors can be removed as required, keeping them in order for installation in the same cylinder.
Inspect each injector well for foreign debris, and clean as required. If any injectors are missing the copper compression ring, retrieve it from the well. Inspect each well for debris and clean as necessary.
When replacing the o-rings, use the latest-level kits--F8TZ-9229-AA --and when installing the blue/black lower oil seal, lube it with clean oil and push it directly onto the injector--don't work it on like a bicycle tire, this will cause it to strech too much.
Dip each injector into clean oil before installing. Push down on the injector until it seats while holding the hold-down up to clear the upper bolt--do not hammer on the solenoid body. If necessary use a drift and tap on the hold-down to seat the injector. Install the hold-down screws and spill-spouts, torqueing to 120 in/lbs. Install the valve cover gaskets and UVC harnesses, ensure that each glow plug is connected, and connect the engine harness to the gasket. Before installing the valve covers, check the connections by running the Injector Buzz test.
Connect the oil supply hoses, close the fuel filter and rail drains. Add a pint of fuel lubricity conditioner--F8AZ-9C077-AA to whichever tank you will be test driving on. With the rear oil rail plugs still removed, crank the engine over until oil runs from either rail, install that plug and continue to crank until oil runs from the other, then install that plug. Take care not to damage the o-rings (P/N F4TZ-9N693-A) on the rail plugs and torque the plugs to 21 ft/lbs. When installing the intercooler piping on the 99 engines, ensure the hoses are positioned correctly and the clamps are tight. Restore the remaining items (A/C plenum, vacuum reservoir, ect.) leaving the engine show cover off, and crank the engine until it starts.
Test drive the vehicle for 20 minutes in fourth gear or with the overdrive cancelled to purge the remaining air from the oil and fuel rails. After the test drive, flush whatever oil is standing in the engine valley with a solvent while the engine is warm (to allow the residue to evaporate) in a well ventilated area, catching the run-off in a drain pan at the rear of the engine. Reinstall the engine show cover.
Injector removal/replacement:
With re-development of the injector o-rings, early assembly mistakes, as well as problems with fuel contamination, this job is probably one of the most common repairs.
When replacing injector o-rings, it's recommended that all the injectors be resealed using the most recent kits--F8TZ-9229-AA. When replacing injectors, use the correct parts for the given emissions--Federal F7TZ-9E527-ARM; California F8TZ-9E527-ARM.
Any time a valve cover is removed, the injectors hold-down bolts on that bank should checked for torque. Early engines from 94-95 where assembled with the injectors torqued to 106 in/lbs. This caused the potential for the injectors to work loose damaging the o-rings. If any injector hold-down torque is found to be less than 100 in/lbs, then all the injectors should be resealed. The correct torque on the hold-down bolts is 120 in/lbs.
On 94 and early 95 F-series with air conditioning, half the evaporator plenum must be removed to access the #7 injector and to make removing and installing the RH valve cover easier. On 95-97, the A/C vacuum reservoir can be removed instead. 99's only need the intercooler piping removed. To remove the valve covers on the Econoline, the A/C compressor and alternator have to be removed.
The biggest concern on this job is the prevention of internal engine damage caused by oil or fuel entering the cylinders and resulting in a hydraulic lock of the engine. I purge the oil from the rails in the head by removing the oil supply hoses and the two rear 5/8" hex plugs from the tops of the heads (the 99 engine requires a special tool), and gently blowing the rails out with compressed air. There are actualy two aluminum plugs inside the valve covers for this purpose, but they are usually frozen and "round off". On the back of each head there is a fuel rail drain that has a 1/4" square drive for a ratchet. If you can access them, unscrew each one full turn. If you can't, don't worry, you can deal with fuel in the cylinder(s) easy enough later.
If you haven't removed the valve covers already, do it; also remove the gaskets and Under Valve Cover harnesses, taking care not to drop the injector connector seals on harnesses with plastic locks (the harnesses with wire flip-locks don't use seals).
Remove the spill-spouts from all the injectors you are replacing/servicing. If you don't they will get damaged.
If you are removing more than one injector on either bank, allways remove the rear-most injector that is being replaced/serviced first. This will ensure that any oil or fuel in that head is isolated in one cylinder. Example: if you are replacing injectors 1 and 5, remove #5 first.
Remove the first injector by removing its lower/outer hold-down bolt, then sliding the hold-down up towards the center of the engine. Carefully pry under the hold-down with a bar to lift the injector from its well and remove it from the engine. If you are servicing any injectors on the opposate bank, remove the rear most one to be serviced/replaced in the same way.
Remove any fuel or oil that may have entered the cylinders by bumping the engine over by hand or with a remote starter. Use cardboard over the valve train to minimize the amount of spray from the cylinders. Opening the fuel filter drain will pervent any more fuel from entering the heads, and having the supply hoses removed will do the same for the oil.
With the rear most cylinders purged, all the remaing injectors can be removed as required, keeping them in order for installation in the same cylinder.
Inspect each injector well for foreign debris, and clean as required. If any injectors are missing the copper compression ring, retrieve it from the well. Inspect each well for debris and clean as necessary.
When replacing the o-rings, use the latest-level kits--F8TZ-9229-AA --and when installing the blue/black lower oil seal, lube it with clean oil and push it directly onto the injector--don't work it on like a bicycle tire, this will cause it to strech too much.
Dip each injector into clean oil before installing. Push down on the injector until it seats while holding the hold-down up to clear the upper bolt--do not hammer on the solenoid body. If necessary use a drift and tap on the hold-down to seat the injector. Install the hold-down screws and spill-spouts, torqueing to 120 in/lbs. Install the valve cover gaskets and UVC harnesses, ensure that each glow plug is connected, and connect the engine harness to the gasket. Before installing the valve covers, check the connections by running the Injector Buzz test.
Connect the oil supply hoses, close the fuel filter and rail drains. Add a pint of fuel lubricity conditioner--F8AZ-9C077-AA to whichever tank you will be test driving on. With the rear oil rail plugs still removed, crank the engine over until oil runs from either rail, install that plug and continue to crank until oil runs from the other, then install that plug. Take care not to damage the o-rings (P/N F4TZ-9N693-A) on the rail plugs and torque the plugs to 21 ft/lbs. When installing the intercooler piping on the 99 engines, ensure the hoses are positioned correctly and the clamps are tight. Restore the remaining items (A/C plenum, vacuum reservoir, ect.) leaving the engine show cover off, and crank the engine until it starts.
Test drive the vehicle for 20 minutes in fourth gear or with the overdrive cancelled to purge the remaining air from the oil and fuel rails. After the test drive, flush whatever oil is standing in the engine valley with a solvent while the engine is warm (to allow the residue to evaporate) in a well ventilated area, catching the run-off in a drain pan at the rear of the engine. Reinstall the engine show cover.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by dunnit52
A link or tech article on changing injectors on the 7.3 PSD ('99). Any leads?
http://www.dieselinnovations.com/tec...stallation.pdf
Hope it helps. I also have instructions on a Word document.
Nut
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Central Wyoming
Originally Posted by dunnit52
A link or tech article on changing injectors on the 7.3 PSD ('99). Any leads?
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