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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 12:05 PM
  #121  
Adobe 11SD's Avatar
Adobe 11SD
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From: League City, TX
I got so mixed up reading this thread that I installed Infinity 682.9 CF's in the front and the 683.2CF's in the rear because I couldn't make my mind up on which I wanted.

The combination sounds really good. The 6832's seem to have more bass and are louder. The 6829's seem to be more clear and have better highs.

I do not have the premium sound system.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 02:09 PM
  #122  
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lexustbs
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I goofed up when intalling my new speakers and threw away the rear speakers with the rear tweeter capacitor or whatever still attached to the speaker. Does anybody know how I can re hook up the tweeters? Does anybody have stock rear speakers with the tweeter adaptor that they could send me? I'll pay up!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 08:46 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by Adobe 11SD
I got so mixed up reading this thread that I installed Infinity 682.9 CF's in the front and the 683.2CF's in the rear because I couldn't make my mind up on which I wanted.

The combination sounds really good. The 6832's seem to have more bass and are louder. The 6829's seem to be more clear and have better highs.

I do not have the premium sound system.
You have a premium sound system now!!!!!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 08:48 PM
  #124  
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reels
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Made the swap to the 6832's yesterday front and rear. Two of us took under an hour to do.

$50 a set on Amazon and it sounds much better. Thanks everyone for the idea.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 11:12 AM
  #125  
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aaronbrace
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Originally Posted by lexustbs
I goofed up when intalling my new speakers and threw away the rear speakers with the rear tweeter capacitor or whatever still attached to the speaker. Does anybody know how I can re hook up the tweeters? Does anybody have stock rear speakers with the tweeter adaptor that they could send me? I'll pay up!
Don't worry. The factory is probably just using a simple high-pass filter. You can buy them in many places and they are relatively cheap. Here is an example of one on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGJ96-.../ref=de_a_smtd

These block everything < 1.2Khz and should work just fine for tweeters.

They go in serial (in-line) between the positive (a misnomer with A/C, but whatever) lead going to the speaker. You only need one per tweeter.

I have no personal experience with this brand and linked to it so you could see the general thing to look for.

---Aaron
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 12:08 PM
  #126  
Adobe 11SD's Avatar
Adobe 11SD
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From: League City, TX
Originally Posted by RedBoat
You have a premium sound system now!!!!!
It is certainly premium-er.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #127  
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Brandon Bloomquist
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I swapped in the 682.9s last week, and they sound a hell of a lot better, but it feels like the factory XLT deck is cutting out the low frequencies. Some things sound stellar, like "Eye of the Tiger", but most hip/hop sounds terrible, with all of the bass just cut out. I know some will say that all rap sounds terrible... )

I'm guessing that the factory deck is simply not passing out those frequencies to protect the terrible factory speakers. Is there an easy way around this, or am I looking at a PAC-24 and 4 channel amp install?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #128  
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TexasA&M
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No matter what head unit you are running, you are going to need a sub of some kind to really get the best out of the low frequencies. I installed this one last weekend and am very happy with it -



Kenwood KSC-SW10 Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 12:30 PM
  #129  
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Does that fit under the driver's seat?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 12:32 PM
  #130  
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Negative... I don't think much of anything will fit under there. I put this one behind the back seat on the passenger side and it fits perfectly.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 12:47 PM
  #131  
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Brandon Bloomquist
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Originally Posted by TexasA&M
Negative... I don't think much of anything will fit under there. I put this one behind the back seat on the passenger side and it fits perfectly.
How did the wiring work out? Did you have to install one of the PAC-24 boxes or were you able to simply tap into the lines for one of the rear speakers?

Thanks for your help!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 12:52 PM
  #132  
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Wiring was simple, especially since I was installing new speakers at the same time. I just tapped into the rear speaker lines and then used some empty spots in the fuse box for power. The unit came with all the wiring that you need.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 09:53 AM
  #133  
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I'm installing a set of Infinity 6830's up front and 6832's in the back today. Wondering how folks have addressed the Crossover installation.
1. Where did you put it and how did you attach it?
2. Did you use the wires to the existing low/mid range as the input to the crossover? Haven't checked yet but wondering if they are full range or if the seperate wires for the factory tweeter are only high freq from the head unit? If that were the case, the crossover wouldn't really be needed. Can't imagine they are sending the full freq signal to both the low/mid AND the tweeter.

I've started on the dynamat install (pass door almost done) only doing the interior face of the door, not inside. It's actually quite easy using the recommended roller and heat gun.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 10:49 AM
  #134  
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Mcmurphrjk
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Originally Posted by RobFlag
I
1. Where did you put it and how did you attach it?
2. Did you use the wires to the existing low/mid range as the input to the crossover? Haven't checked yet but wondering if they are full range or if the seperate wires for the factory tweeter are only high freq from the head unit? If that were the case, the crossover wouldn't really be needed. Can't imagine they are sending the full freq signal to both the low/mid AND the tweeter.
1. On the front speaker, the highpass filter for the factory tweeters are mounted in line, separate from the mid wiring,so are not an issue for the install.
On the rears, the high pass filters are mounted on a board on the rear speakers, and a separate connector goes from that board to the factory tweeters.
I removed the filters and wiring, and spliced that wiring into the speaker adapters I used to connect to the Ford connectors.
It will make sense when you see it. I just taped the filters to the speaker wires, after soldering the splice.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 11:12 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Mcmurphrjk
1. On the front speaker, the highpass filter for the factory tweeters are mounted in line, separate from the mid wiring,so are not an issue for the install.
On the rears, the high pass filters are mounted on a board on the rear speakers, and a separate connector goes from that board to the factory tweeters.
I removed the filters and wiring, and spliced that wiring into the speaker adapters I used to connect to the Ford connectors.
It will make sense when you see it. I just taped the filters to the speaker wires, after soldering the splice.
Guess I need to do some more wire tracing in the doors. I think what you're saying is that there are factory high pass filters up front and that you used those vice crossover networks that came with the aftermarket speakers? I'd like to use the ones that came with the speakers to looks like I'll connect the Infinity crossover to the factory wires before any crossover/highpass. Thanks!
 
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