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Old May 17, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by clux
That is as rep worthy as anything in the thread. But alas, my rep hands are tied.

The warm fuzzy one get from dumping perfectly good oil out at 3000 miles is nice, but knowledge is power.
Got 'em for ya' Cluxy.

I change dino at 5k and syn at 7.5-8k. I will be pulling a sample after this 5k run of MC oil for reference. My engine seems to run high in iron content, I'm curious if this run on dino makes any difference.
 
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Old May 17, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
Got 'em for ya' Cluxy.

I change dino at 5k and syn at 7.5-8k. I will be pulling a sample after this 5k run of MC oil for reference. My engine seems to run high in iron content, I'm curious if this run on dino makes any difference.
Just picked up 6 bottles of Motorcraft oil and two filters myself. Tough to switch brands since I have been using Rotella for years now. But it's also hard to resist a 5 qt jug of MC for only a few cents more than 4qts of Rotella. I will be interested to see my labs when the time comes.
 
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Old May 27, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #48  
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From: North Ft Worth
I have a statement with a question. Running a 2000 F-350, bone stock, 240k miles. I changed my crankcase oil. Drove 15 miles looked at the dipstick and the oil still looked like new. Watched the video mentioned in this post, went out with my home made vacum device with a glass catch jar and sucked out nasty black oil from the HPOP resivoir.

Question: Why doe's the oil on the dipstick look new and the oil I've removed from the resivior look black? Shouldn't the HPOP resivoir oil look new after 15 miles of driving and circulating? It was very black not even close to being diluted with fresh crankcase oil.
 
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Old May 27, 2011 | 10:53 PM
  #49  
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by Y2K1TON
I have a statement with a question. Running a 2000 F-350, bone stock, 240k miles. I changed my crankcase oil. Drove 15 miles looked at the dipstick and the oil still looked like new. Watched the video mentioned in this post, went out with my home made vacum device with a glass catch jar and sucked out nasty black oil from the HPOP resivoir.

Question: Why doe's the oil on the dipstick look new and the oil I've removed from the resivior look black? Shouldn't the HPOP resivoir oil look new after 15 miles of driving and circulating? It was very black not even close to being diluted with fresh crankcase oil.
Dip your dipstick in the "nasty black oil" and see what it looks like on the dipstick. That will answer your question.
 
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Old May 27, 2011 | 10:56 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Y2K1TON
I have a statement with a question. Running a 2000 F-350, bone stock, 240k miles. I changed my crankcase oil. Drove 15 miles looked at the dipstick and the oil still looked like new. Watched the video mentioned in this post, went out with my home made vacum device with a glass catch jar and sucked out nasty black oil from the HPOP resivoir.

Question: Why doe's the oil on the dipstick look new and the oil I've removed from the resivior look black? Shouldn't the HPOP resivoir oil look new after 15 miles of driving and circulating? It was very black not even close to being diluted with fresh crankcase oil.
I think you just poked a sleeping bear..

I'm sure someone will chime in with an answer (whether or not its right is up for debate, as long as it sounds plausible.)
 
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Old May 28, 2011 | 11:26 AM
  #51  
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From: North Ft Worth
Could there be a drain problem not allowing the HPOP resivior return oil to the pan? I don't have first hand knowledge of the inner workings of the HPOP/resivior. Also, the last bit of oil I removed from the resivior had some very small particales in it. Please save the negative/snide remarks, I'm asking for help from my fellow superduty owners not looking for drama. Thanks for any insight.
 
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Old May 28, 2011 | 11:31 AM
  #52  
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by Y2K1TON
Could there be a drain problem not allowing the HPOP resivior return oil to the pan? I don't have first hand knowledge of the inner workings of the HPOP/resivior. Also, the last bit of oil I removed from the resivior had some very small particales in it. Please save the negative/snide remarks, I'm asking for help from my fellow superduty owners not looking for drama. Thanks for any insight.
There literally has to be gallons of oil a minute passing through the reservoir for the engine to run, there is no other possibility.
 
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Old May 28, 2011 | 12:05 PM
  #53  
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The res does just what it says. It has to hold enough oil that no matter how much oil the injectors
Are using it retains positive pressure. There is a stand pipe which actually causes the res to never drain. That's what you want other wise you would introduce air into the hpo system and that's bad! I think when the truck is at idle and using very little hp oil the ipr sends the extra oil back into the res. So in theory I think that there could be some oil that doesn't get circulated very quickly but it's not like there is never any fresh oil getting pumped into there. The res has around 35-45 psi in it at anything above idle and when it's cold it can have over 60-70 psi in it. Now when you sucked your res out there is a screen that prevents you from actually getting to the very bottom of the res. All the oil that goes through your lpo pump for the most part has to hi through this screen. Very little unfiltered oil can get into the hpop except when cold starting and even then I don't think it's much. Not sure if this helps, but it makes sense in my head! Just doesn't always get interpreted the same in others!
 
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Old May 28, 2011 | 12:10 PM
  #54  
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Ok after I re read what I typed about the screen in the res, all oil coming into the res passes through the screen except what the ipr sends back into the res. This happens below the screen.
 
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Old May 28, 2011 | 09:06 PM
  #55  
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Just a casual glance at the HPOP reservoir and you have to know there is no way in hell there is 3 qts. in there.
 
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