Mind you, I don't tow heavy, nor do I have any horsepower enhancers to add stress to my oil.

I also have additional filtration using a combination full-flow and bypass in the Fleetguard, and a bypass-only in the Baldwin.

But I would never attempt that mileage interval without the use of three Blackstones, and three bypass filters, every oil change.

It still gets black, but that's unconglomerated soot.

YES, modern oil is FAR better than oil used half-a-century ago. BTW, I was using dino Delo then, too, but in gassers!

Pop

 

Yep learned something new again reading this thread. You guys never fail me...as always thanks

 

Dang, Marv! Doesn't all that add up to at least one extra oil change anyway??

I have to admit something: My last OC, WM was out of Syn Rotella, and I've been itching to try the Motorcraft Diesel oil. At this point, I can't say I can tell a difference. I KNOW I saw a difference when I ran Delo (which I still will NEVER put in my engine again!). It romped at like 50 degrees and wan noisy. For that reason I was apprehensive about going back to dino, especially as cheap as Motorcraft is in the 15 qt jugs. We have had some chilly nights since I put it in, and not even a hint of romping. I may even try running it over this winter to see what happens...

Sorry for the hijack here. All I can add is that I used to suck out my HPOP res when I was buying 4 gallons of syn Rotella only because I hated storing one quart of left over oil. That extra quart or so coming out made it more convenient. However, the oil that came out looked the same as the oil I dumped out of the pan. And I rigged up a way to make it super easy, so there was hardly any wasted time (pulled it out while the pan drained). If I continue using 3 - 5 quart jugs of Motorcraft, I definitely won't be sucking it out...

About the vids -- all I'll say is I agree with Curtis. I watched several and stopped counting at 5 or so blatantly wrong statement by the dude....

 

Money-wise, it could be about break-even.

However, for the same money, I'm far ahead in knowledge gained about the health of the engine.

One way I buy oil, the other way I buy filters and information.

Pop

 

He is W-A-Y off with his capacity estimates. I've changed the reservior oil a couple of times (once for the heck of it and the other was to change out my HPOP) and I was only able to pull out 1/2 quart or so at best. You also have to be careful not to bottom out your siphon (I use a small hand-operated vacuum pump with a reservoir) as you can damage the screen in there. There's enough oil coating all the surfaces throughout the engine that the 1/2 quart isn't going to make much difference IMHO.

Just my .02

 

That is as rep worthy as anything in the thread. But alas, my rep hands are tied.

The warm fuzzy one get from dumping perfectly good oil out at 3000 miles is nice, but knowledge is power.

 

So, am I correct in thinking that the HPOP oil dumps directly back into the oil pan after it passes through the injectors and that fresh oil from the pan is constantly picked up by the HPOP?

It isn't some sort of system where the HPOP oil is a semi-closed system where oil from the pan is gradually cycled in/out?

In other words, this HPOP oil change would have to be done with every motor oil change to really do any good.... correct?

 

Your first statement is most accurate. Here is a good explanation of how the oil system works.

 

The oil that is used by the injectors dumps out of them under the valve covers, which returns to the oil pan. The HPOP system is not closed at all.

 

The LPOP constantly supplies the HPOP reservoir with crankcase oil.

The HPOP increases the pressure and feeds the injectors, which just dump it back to the crankcase when done with it.

Pop

 

And whatever is not sent to the injectors is dumped past the IPR, down the front cover, and back into the oil pan.

As it was mentioned, the LPOP constantly supplies fresh oil from the pan into the HPOP reservoir. On top of sending that oil to the injectors or out past the IPR and down the front cover, any excess oil that is not used by the HPOP system will dump out the reservoir overflow, and down the front cover back to the oil pan.

You can actually fill the entire crankcase up through the small plug on the top of the HPOP reservoir. Once the reservoir is full, all the rest just overflows to the crankcase.

 

I think just about all that can be said has been said. If anyone really wants to know how much oil moves through the HPOP reservoir, park in a place you don't mind having an oil leak, remove the plug on top of the HPOP reservoir and start your truck. Once it starts go ahead and rev the motor up to 1500 or 2000 rpm's. That will address any concerns you may have about the volume of oil moving through the reservoir.

And for the record, I was one of those who sent a sample of HPOP oil in to Blackstone labs after never having changed the top end oil in over a quarter million miles Blackstone didn't see any difference in that oil and the stuff that came out of the pan 5,000 miles prior. I haven't "changed" the top end since and I'm pushing 365,000 miles now.

 

i pull out what i can when i do my oil just ot get all of the old out i can get. i dont see how it can be bad.

 

There's nothing wrong with changing it. It's just that it's not the big deal that the guy on powerstrokehelp claims it to be. If it were, Chris's truck, and my work too for that matter, would be in real bad shape.

 

Dang you quoted my thought to nearly the letter! I wanted suggest to pull the fill plug and start the engine. I was gonna recommend the hood be closed the throttle set to about 1500 rpm until the engine quits. Refill, replace the plug and drive home once you get oil back to the injectors.

And then of course I was one of the others that sent in a oil sample of the sump and HPOP res. oil and the samples came back identical.

Good post! F350-6!