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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 04:24 PM
  #61  
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Nkelly
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OH and no comments on my video

I was pissing myself laughing,yelled out to lyn and told her i found a video of her copped a wack in the back of the head.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 05:51 PM
  #62  
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That is a nice looking kit! I am surprised there is no surface rust on the brackets. Those rod-ends look super-beefy.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 09:37 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by IB Adrian
That is a nice looking kit! I am surprised there is no surface rust on the brackets. Those rod-ends look super-beefy.
Ya right IB,i was a little worried if the design and workmanship was gunna be good,but thats all gone,im very impressed in the design (very light weight) but engineered superbly and ive had a good look at ALL the welding,excellent nice big fillet's...

The kelderman is much dearer (3 times the price) so i thought this kit would be inferior,but NO WAY its well made..

I'm happy ..
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 02:53 AM
  #64  
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ChunderDownUnder
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Originally Posted by IB Adrian
That is a nice looking kit! I am surprised there is no surface rust on the brackets. Those rod-ends look super-beefy.
If I know Bryan, Adrian he has already stripped naked, rubbed engine all over himself and rolled around on the floor amongst all those good bits. thats why theres no rust. At least thats what I would do.

You put em in yet bro.. C'Mon.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 02:58 AM
  #65  
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ChunderDownUnder
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From: Man Cave
Originally Posted by Nkelly
Should of left it all in the boxes and waited till i moved to QLD when i had plenty of time to do this and had no need for my truck..

Went and seen my local panel beater,asked besides powder coating it all(yes i know that would be the go) what else could i do,he told me to go buy some K&H chassis black,so i spent ALL day making a rack to hang ALL parts,then washed ALL the parts and then painted ALL parts with 4 coats of chassis black...
An ALL farking day episode,they all come up nice,all glossy black..

Once i settle down in QLD (and get away from the earthmoving) i'll go nuts on the truck and then take all the suspension off and get it done in something nice,i wonder how it would look chrome simon ????.
Come past my place on the way up. I will give Clay a call and we can get to gether and put that sucker in. You'll wished you powder coated em bruva.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 05:31 PM
  #66  
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Nkelly
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Originally Posted by ChunderDownUnder
Come past my place on the way up. I will give Clay a call and we can get to gether and put that sucker in. You'll wished you powder coated em bruva.
I started yesty putting it in,after painting it all,i wasnt gunna repack it all **** tat.
Everything had too come off in the front end only fekkin thing that stayed was the axle f**k me..

No instructions at all,4000 bolts and nuts all different lenghts and sizes,slow stuff down heaps.

I'll get some photo's up when the front end is finished.
You'll wished you powder coated em bruva
Yes i know,but as i said before (u no risten) when i find my new home and it has or i build a big ****** ****** of a shed,im gunna go nuts on the effie.. but what ive done will last awhile
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 06:02 PM
  #67  
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From: Man Cave
Originally Posted by Nkelly
No instructions at all,4000 bolts and nuts all different lenghts and sizes,slow stuff down heaps.

was wondering about the instructions. you would expect some sort of detail.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 10:42 PM
  #68  
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Nkelly
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Originally Posted by ChunderDownUnder
you would expect some sort of detail.
yer i know ATLEAST mark the bags with the bolts and nuts to say where they go,bunch a basic ***...

Their engineers and welders are good the rest are retarded.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 07:44 AM
  #69  
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Well guys, I got part 1 of my albeit modest suspension up grade done.

Removed the stock blocks and lowest leaf spring on each side. The lowest leaf is over half an inch thick. Put in 3" blocks and was able to reuse the stock shackles to bolt it all together again. I did a quick bounce test and the suspension seems more compliant. I've put 30psi in the bags.

Still have to do a full road test including a couple of stiff take offs to see how the suspension now takes full torque.

As I said, a very modest $50 upgrade.

Anyone needing a set of extra long rear shackles, PM me
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by SSSimon
Well guys, I got part 1 of my albeit modest suspension up grade done.

Removed the stock blocks and lowest leaf spring on each side. The lowest leaf is over half an inch thick. Put in 3" blocks and was able to reuse the stock shackles to bolt it all together again. I did a quick bounce test and the suspension seems more compliant. I've put 30psi in the bags.

Still have to do a full road test including a couple of stiff take offs to see how the suspension now takes full torque.

As I said, a very modest $50 upgrade.

Anyone needing a set of extra long rear shackles, PM me
Did the 3" blocks level out your truck ??? .
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 03:55 AM
  #71  
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Pretty much, raised the rear just over 1/2 an inch, the nuts on the rear shackles have just 1 thread of the shackle coming through each of them.
Top of tyre to top of guard gap is now 10.75 inches all round.
To use the shackles provided in the 3" block kit I would have had to stack the 3" blocks on top of the stock 1.5 " blocks. Mate they are loooong shackles!

I'll drive it around a bit and see how it goes. I'm now at a stage that if I think the back is still too low I'll take the shortest leaves out of the front springs - these have had add-a-leafs added which put an additional 4 leaves on each side at the front. The shortest of the leaves added is only just wider than the axle. So lower the front rather than raise the back even more is the next step if it still doesn't look right.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 05:14 AM
  #72  
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Nkelly
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Originally Posted by SSSimon
Pretty much, raised the rear just over 1/2 an inch, the nuts on the rear shackles have just 1 thread of the shackle coming through each of them.
Top of tyre to top of guard gap is now 10.75 inches all round.
To use the shackles provided in the 3" block kit I would have had to stack the 3" blocks on top of the stock 1.5 " blocks. Mate they are loooong shackles!

I'll drive it around a bit and see how it goes. I'm now at a stage that if I think the back is still too low I'll take the shortest leaves out of the front springs - these have had add-a-leafs added which put an additional 4 leaves on each side at the front. The shortest of the leaves added is only just wider than the axle. So lower the front rather than raise the back even more is the next step if it still doesn't look right.
Those short **** leaves wont be causing you stiffness,it'll be the longer ones i reckon,the add-a-leaves are'nt designed too doing anything but lift the truck.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2011 | 03:51 AM
  #73  
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Nkelly
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Brian wanted some more pictures,this air suspension is a BIG job on your own..

Unbolting ****e



Springs out


Starting too put airbags in
Thats sway bar has to go.


Sway bar gone


Passenger side done,just need shockers installed,got 4 Rancho RS9000X race adjustables otw


Drivers side done..


Chassis bracket for the front control arms,passenger side..


Air tank in


Mounting the compressor and air engine in the back,was gunna put it underneath,but worried about river crossings,so she's going in the back.


Ran the air lines and wiring for the controller up through the floor near the drivers side kick panel.


Plumbing and wiring up the controller


Train horns ready to go for the f**kwits who get in ma way


Have no idea why those pictures didnt load,checked and double checked ?
 

Last edited by Nkelly; Jun 18, 2011 at 03:54 AM. Reason: Pictures missing
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Old Jun 18, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #74  
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Nice pics Bryan, keep em coming. Where u gunna mount ya gauges m8. And do they give you enuf air line to mount the tank and pump right up the back of the bed.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 01:50 AM
  #75  
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Nkelly
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Im gunna f**k all their crap air lines off and get some hydraulic hose made up and proper fittings,these fekkin fittings with olives in them are bull****..

And no they did'nt give enough air hose,i think they want you to mount everything no further back than the front seats..

I guess you have to mount it under the truck just behind the transfer case (centre of the vehicle) but i didnt want it under the truck,didnt want to drown it doing a river crossing..

Wasted this weekend figuring out the plumbing and wiring into the cab,and then fixing air leaks..

This job is starting to go from yee ha too,i should of stayed with me trusty nissan with COIL all round suspension..

Over 20 years of dealing with big trucks and the problems you get with air leaks you would think that would of scared me away from this move..

Ive got it now,i just gotta improve on their air set up and prevent/stop air leaks..

So i'll go see mr ENZED and get some hosing made up,atleast i'll know that'll be much better.
 
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