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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Bolt hole measurement

 
  #61  
Old 01-20-2016, 08:30 AM
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Looking good Ken. Did you find your running boards?

Ive saved a set (not in perfect shape for my 53) but Glass man Bruce on here has made some out of fiberglass. They look good and the buyer was happy.

I had spare hood latches a few years ago but they went quick from what
i recall.
 
  #62  
Old 01-20-2016, 12:45 PM
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Hello Ken Have you fiqured your steering out yet with the F frame? If you get it done and steering well send us a pic of it. Idler arm and all.
 
  #63  
Old 01-20-2016, 05:33 PM
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I haven't found any good running boards yet. I'd love to see the fiberglass ones.
I found some used hood latches and bought them.
Once I get the body mounted I'll get the steering box attached and I'll take some pictures. I had the box tilted with the arm pointed nearly straight down but I've since moved the engine forward and took the box back off. The shaft was real close to the power steering pulley. I really want the engine low enough to not have a big hump in the floor so I can run a bench seat. I want to be able to drive it with my granddaughter and girlfriend with me.
 
  #64  
Old 01-20-2016, 05:42 PM
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Check these out!





see thread below.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-im-ready.html
 
  #65  
Old 01-20-2016, 06:04 PM
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Those are sweet! Thanks.
 
  #66  
Old 01-20-2016, 06:06 PM
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Wonder what they would cost shipped to Arizona? I'll have $600 in labor fixing mine.
 
  #67  
Old 01-20-2016, 10:22 PM
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Terry advertises them for $600 so either way you go it may be close to same price.
 
  #68  
Old 04-14-2016, 10:50 PM
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I was afraid the F550 front axle would be too wide but I think it's fine.

This Sunday is the Fabulous Fords Forever car show at Knott's Berry Farm. I'm not going but I did make a commitment to have this truck drivable and drive it the to the show in 2017. It's about a 7 hour drive from my house south of Mesa, Arizona. I better get off my butt and get to work!
 
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  #69  
Old 07-04-2016, 03:46 PM
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I've decided to use 2005 Ford body mounts because the frame I am using is a 2005. I'm hoping it will ride nice and if I need parts in the future, they should be easy to find.
 
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  #70  
Old 07-04-2016, 03:53 PM
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Right now it's just temporarily bolted on the frame. I plan to fabricate a brace that bolts in the stock hole location above the new frame mount. I'm using 2005 mounts on the front also.
 
  #71  
Old 07-10-2016, 08:14 PM
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Cleaned the bracket in vinegar then shot some Eastwood cad silver on it. Looks a bunch better. Lots to do but I got something done.
 
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Old 07-11-2016, 11:30 AM
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Can you still buy the 2005 mounts from Ford? If so, do you have a part number?

Also, if you have the time, how about a picture looking up into the cab near the new mount?
 
  #73  
Old 07-11-2016, 12:59 PM
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I priced the mounts from Ford and went with Doorman instead. If they don't work well I'll probably go with polyurethane. I think they should be ok.
I haven't finished the brackets to the bottom of the cab yet. I'm going to have a brace attached in the original 1/2" hole and one diagonally to keep it from moving forward or backwards. I need something going from side to side also. I'll take more pics as I figure it out. Thanks for asking
 

Last edited by Ken Newman; 07-11-2016 at 01:01 PM. Reason: Oops
  #74  
Old 07-11-2016, 08:49 PM
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I cut the driveshaft down to 55.5" and replaced the 1410 weld yoke with a 1480 so I didn't have to use a conversion U-joint on the rear with the Dana 110.
 
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  #75  
Old 07-11-2016, 08:54 PM
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I ordered a new 1410 front slip yoke and 1410 U-joint to eliminate the conversion joint that is there now. I'm trying to use easily available parts so I can drive it without worrying about finding parts if it breaks down. The e-mail I got today said I should have them in 5 days.
 

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