Oh BOy Lighting Problems
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 852
Likes: 12
From: Kentucky
Okay I added a couple of things to your picture to help orient us when I tell you what to test:
Before we start testing, I want to understand how the kit you bought rerouted the wiring harnesses for the new Nav System:
1) I would expect that C-240A above on the truck side of the harness must have been rerouted through the new AMP and then the AMP would have a new harness connector coming back to the NAV radio at C-240A. Perhaps something like Truck harness connector C-240A female to new AMP Adaptor Harness Male to new Nav Radio Connector C-240A female to back of Nav Radio. WOAH. I KNOW THAT THE BIG OEM PLUG WENT INTO THE FEMALE OF THE ADAPTER THEN THAT CONNECTED INTO THE NAV UNIT.
2) C240B above is for the rear camera - do you have a rear camera in the truck and is there an adaptor for it in the kit? If you do I presume it is wired to your rearview mirror at the moment. NO REARVIEW CAMERA
3) C240C above handles the SYNC connections from the APIM as well as SDARS connections for ealy build trucks. The kit should not have had any modifications of this connector other than to disconnect the SDARS module and to add the MIC splice, correct? CORRECT ADDED TWO PINS TO 11 AND 12 TO MAKE THE MIC CONNECTION.
4) Does your truck have a subwoofer? I GUESS IT DOES? ITS A LARIAT IF THAT HELPS
Before we start testing, I want to understand how the kit you bought rerouted the wiring harnesses for the new Nav System:
1) I would expect that C-240A above on the truck side of the harness must have been rerouted through the new AMP and then the AMP would have a new harness connector coming back to the NAV radio at C-240A. Perhaps something like Truck harness connector C-240A female to new AMP Adaptor Harness Male to new Nav Radio Connector C-240A female to back of Nav Radio. WOAH. I KNOW THAT THE BIG OEM PLUG WENT INTO THE FEMALE OF THE ADAPTER THEN THAT CONNECTED INTO THE NAV UNIT.
2) C240B above is for the rear camera - do you have a rear camera in the truck and is there an adaptor for it in the kit? If you do I presume it is wired to your rearview mirror at the moment. NO REARVIEW CAMERA
3) C240C above handles the SYNC connections from the APIM as well as SDARS connections for ealy build trucks. The kit should not have had any modifications of this connector other than to disconnect the SDARS module and to add the MIC splice, correct? CORRECT ADDED TWO PINS TO 11 AND 12 TO MAKE THE MIC CONNECTION.
4) Does your truck have a subwoofer? I GUESS IT DOES? ITS A LARIAT IF THAT HELPS
On the harness connection. It does appear that the wires route through the new AMP then back to the radio.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Okay perfect.
Let's start with the grounds and continuity testing.
For this test, set your MM to test resistance/ohms.
C-240A:
Pin 4 to Pin 13 - reading should be 0 Ohms.
Pin 1 to Pin 13 - greater than 0 Ohms - report total reading.
Pin 3 to Pin 4 - should be either open or greater than 0. If greater than 0 report Ohms.
I can't tell from the picture if there is a Pin 2 - if so it is one of the smaller pins and should be directly above pin 14. If it is there, measure the resistance from 2 to 13 and 2 to 1 - should both be open.
Let me know what you find.
Let's start with the grounds and continuity testing.
For this test, set your MM to test resistance/ohms.
C-240A:
Pin 4 to Pin 13 - reading should be 0 Ohms.
Pin 1 to Pin 13 - greater than 0 Ohms - report total reading.
Pin 3 to Pin 4 - should be either open or greater than 0. If greater than 0 report Ohms.
I can't tell from the picture if there is a Pin 2 - if so it is one of the smaller pins and should be directly above pin 14. If it is there, measure the resistance from 2 to 13 and 2 to 1 - should both be open.
Let me know what you find.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 852
Likes: 12
From: Kentucky
Okay perfect.
Let's start with the grounds and continuity testing.
For this test, set your MM to test resistance/ohms.
C-240A:
Pin 4 to Pin 13 - reading should be 0 Ohms.
Pin 1 to Pin 13 - greater than 0 Ohms - report total reading.
Pin 3 to Pin 4 - should be either open or greater than 0. If greater than 0 report Ohms.
I can't tell from the picture if there is a Pin 2 - if so it is one of the smaller pins and should be directly above pin 14. If it is there, measure the resistance from 2 to 13 and 2 to 1 - should both be open.
Let me know what you find.
Let's start with the grounds and continuity testing.
For this test, set your MM to test resistance/ohms.
C-240A:
Pin 4 to Pin 13 - reading should be 0 Ohms.
Pin 1 to Pin 13 - greater than 0 Ohms - report total reading.
Pin 3 to Pin 4 - should be either open or greater than 0. If greater than 0 report Ohms.
I can't tell from the picture if there is a Pin 2 - if so it is one of the smaller pins and should be directly above pin 14. If it is there, measure the resistance from 2 to 13 and 2 to 1 - should both be open.
Let me know what you find.
Pin 1 to 13: 1.5 ohms, but the number kept droping on my meter? Its started out at this number and kept droping?
Pin 3 to Pin 4: 0 ohms
Pin 2 to 13: 1.5 ohms, but droping
Pin 2 to 1: 1.5 and kept droping?
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Here is why 3 to 4 is interesting. According to the schematics for the ACM, pins 3 and 4 are unused illumination + and - respectively. However your reading indicates 3 and 4 are grounded (0 ohms). If the schematics are correct and the truck harness carries the wiring on these pins as indicated then as soon as you turned the lights on the illumination voltage sent by the BCM is shorting out on these pins - that would be bad and would easily short out the BCM illumination voltage and could easily destroy the FET in the BCM.
This all hinges on verifying the wiring is in fact in the harness and that it does carry the illumination voltage as indicted in the schematics.
Not much more you can test at this point on the nav unit - I will pull my nav unit and check my wiring harness and 3-4 pins to verify this and report back in a few hours. Hopefully we have found the source of the problem.
This all hinges on verifying the wiring is in fact in the harness and that it does carry the illumination voltage as indicted in the schematics.
Not much more you can test at this point on the nav unit - I will pull my nav unit and check my wiring harness and 3-4 pins to verify this and report back in a few hours. Hopefully we have found the source of the problem.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 852
Likes: 12
From: Kentucky
Ok called in my local electrican (love the small town USA) and he said every pin he tested was a open circuit. I was not for sure I was doing the checking right? Does this seem more logical now?
Actually pin 1-13 is .7034 ohms
2-13 is 2.50OHMS
2-1 is 2.50 OHMS
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From: Canada
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 852
Likes: 12
From: Kentucky
Yes. Reading the importance of this, I triple checked it. I have a Fluke 112 and its says OL which means OPEN when I check them. I just had the mater all wacked up. SO what do you think, bad NAV unit?
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 852
Likes: 12
From: Kentucky
Ok thanks. I'll be waiting on your response. Haha!
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Okay, I've just done a bunch of tests and shot some pictures of my harness wiring I'll post up in a bit.
My tests confirmed the results of your tests on the open circuits - perfect. One more easy test you can run is to check your pin 13 ground to chassis ground on any part of the metal chassis of the Nav unit. Should get a 0 ohm reading.
The rest of the tests are going to be run off the actual harness connectors when you get the truck back. Mostly to check the crossover adapter from the old nav connections to the new conections to make sure there aren't any problems there.
So far I don't think the Nav unit is wacko - the wiring harness on the other hand may be.
Just as an aside, when you pulled your center panel off, did you also disconnect the wiring connectors to the panel. I noticed the wiring connector for the upfitter switches is identical to the wiring connector for the subwoofer amp on the nav unit - it would be really easy to swap these two which would put the backlighting voltage circuit for the upfitter switches in contact with the negtive return of the subwoofer amp.
My tests confirmed the results of your tests on the open circuits - perfect. One more easy test you can run is to check your pin 13 ground to chassis ground on any part of the metal chassis of the Nav unit. Should get a 0 ohm reading.
The rest of the tests are going to be run off the actual harness connectors when you get the truck back. Mostly to check the crossover adapter from the old nav connections to the new conections to make sure there aren't any problems there.
So far I don't think the Nav unit is wacko - the wiring harness on the other hand may be.
Just as an aside, when you pulled your center panel off, did you also disconnect the wiring connectors to the panel. I noticed the wiring connector for the upfitter switches is identical to the wiring connector for the subwoofer amp on the nav unit - it would be really easy to swap these two which would put the backlighting voltage circuit for the upfitter switches in contact with the negtive return of the subwoofer amp.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 852
Likes: 12
From: Kentucky
Okay, I've just done a bunch of tests and shot some pictures of my harness wiring I'll post up in a bit.
My tests confirmed the results of your tests on the open circuits - perfect. One more easy test you can run is to check your pin 13 ground to chassis ground on any part of the metal chassis of the Nav unit. Should get a 0 ohm reading.
The rest of the tests are going to be run off the actual harness connectors when you get the truck back. Mostly to check the crossover adapter from the old nav connections to the new conections to make sure there aren't any problems there.
So far I don't think the Nav unit is wacko - the wiring harness on the other hand may be.
Just as an aside, when you pulled your center panel off, did you also disconnect the wiring connectors to the panel. I noticed the wiring connector for the upfitter switches is identical to the wiring connector for the subwoofer amp on the nav unit - it would be really easy to swap these two which would put the backlighting voltage circuit for the upfitter switches in contact with the negtive return of the subwoofer amp.
My tests confirmed the results of your tests on the open circuits - perfect. One more easy test you can run is to check your pin 13 ground to chassis ground on any part of the metal chassis of the Nav unit. Should get a 0 ohm reading.
The rest of the tests are going to be run off the actual harness connectors when you get the truck back. Mostly to check the crossover adapter from the old nav connections to the new conections to make sure there aren't any problems there.
So far I don't think the Nav unit is wacko - the wiring harness on the other hand may be.
Just as an aside, when you pulled your center panel off, did you also disconnect the wiring connectors to the panel. I noticed the wiring connector for the upfitter switches is identical to the wiring connector for the subwoofer amp on the nav unit - it would be really easy to swap these two which would put the backlighting voltage circuit for the upfitter switches in contact with the negtive return of the subwoofer amp.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Okay good. There do not appear to be any bad grounds in the radio so as long as it hasn't been damaged, it should work just fine.
When are you getting your truck back?
Once you get it back make sure the backlighting works properly. Then I'll give you what to test in the wire harness to make sure everything is flowing correctly. As part of those tests we need to trace each connector from the truck harness through the intermediary harness to the radio. (As we are doing this I will keep an eye out for any APIM connections which affect the MIC setup). If those tests pass, then time to hookup the nav radio which should work no problem.
Once we can confirm the radio is working and the backlighting is all working we'll wire the MIC the way it should be wired - not the way the instructions say (unless there is something in the intermedairy harness that would validate the instructions)!
One final thing about the MIC which I should have asked a while ago - did the MIC work with the old radio?
When are you getting your truck back?
Once you get it back make sure the backlighting works properly. Then I'll give you what to test in the wire harness to make sure everything is flowing correctly. As part of those tests we need to trace each connector from the truck harness through the intermediary harness to the radio. (As we are doing this I will keep an eye out for any APIM connections which affect the MIC setup). If those tests pass, then time to hookup the nav radio which should work no problem.
Once we can confirm the radio is working and the backlighting is all working we'll wire the MIC the way it should be wired - not the way the instructions say (unless there is something in the intermedairy harness that would validate the instructions)!
One final thing about the MIC which I should have asked a while ago - did the MIC work with the old radio?
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 852
Likes: 12
From: Kentucky
Okay good. There do not appear to be any bad grounds in the radio so as long as it hasn't been damaged, it should work just fine.
When are you getting your truck back?
Once you get it back make sure the backlighting works properly. Then I'll give you what to test in the wire harness to make sure everything is flowing correctly. As part of those tests we need to trace each connector from the truck harness through the intermediary harness to the radio. (As we are doing this I will keep an eye out for any APIM connections which affect the MIC setup). If those tests pass, then time to hookup the nav radio which should work no problem.
Once we can confirm the radio is working and the backlighting is all working we'll wire the MIC the way it should be wired - not the way the instructions say (unless there is something in the intermedairy harness that would validate the instructions)!
One final thing about the MIC which I should have asked a while ago - did the MIC work with the old radio?
When are you getting your truck back?
Once you get it back make sure the backlighting works properly. Then I'll give you what to test in the wire harness to make sure everything is flowing correctly. As part of those tests we need to trace each connector from the truck harness through the intermediary harness to the radio. (As we are doing this I will keep an eye out for any APIM connections which affect the MIC setup). If those tests pass, then time to hookup the nav radio which should work no problem.
Once we can confirm the radio is working and the backlighting is all working we'll wire the MIC the way it should be wired - not the way the instructions say (unless there is something in the intermedairy harness that would validate the instructions)!
One final thing about the MIC which I should have asked a while ago - did the MIC work with the old radio?