REMOTE START PLUG AND PLAY!
I am probably going to order this system too. My remote start doesn't work hardly at all - through walls in the house and the office. I have to be about 100 yards from the truck, in sight, to get it to work. If I am inside forget it... That doesn't do me much good.
Also -- shop around. Prices vary and we didn't get the best price when we bought from our contact here...
we may not have limited edition seats, but we have something even more rare! Series 100 Ford Extended Remote Start Kits. Jealous? 
This is an easy kit to install, so, if you want to join the limited edition remote start club, you're more than welcome to join us.
I am still getting over 800 feet distance on remote starting... Longest, measured by a range finder was a little under 1,200 feet!
So guys that are having problems with this, try and change your battery even if you just got the system. My Sunday has just gotten way better.



You did hear the part about where you put the receiver in reference to the mirror. The lower and more away from the metal on the cab, the better range you'll have.. Seriously it is nice to know how long it'll take when the wife asks, so please report back .....
Thanks
Ford remote start behavior and mirrors...
When the vehicle is started using the remote start feature and the outside temperature is less than 0° C (32° F), the heated mirrors will be activated. No climate control adjustments are recognized during remote start operation. Once the ignition is cycled to the ON position, the climate control system returns to the previous settings (last ignition-ON cycle) and adjustments can be made normally. If the previous setting was off, the climate control turns off.
Ford remote start behavior and EMTC...
When the remote start feature is used, the climate control system automatically sets certain parameters in an attempt to achieve a comfortable cabin temperature. These parameters are set based on outside air temperature. During remote start, the outside air temperature is continually evaluated and HVAC system behavior can change if the outside air changes between cold, moderate and warm temperatures.
For cold ambient air temperatures (below 0°C (32°F)):
-the airflow mode is set to FLOOR/DEFROST.
-the temperature is set to full HOT.
-the blower speed is set to HIGH.
-the air inlet mode is set to fresh air.
-the auxiliary electric heater is enabled if needed (diesel engines only).
For moderate ambient air temperatures (between 0°C (32°F) and 27°C (80°F)):
-the airflow mode is set to the last user setting.
-the temperature is set to the last user setting.
-the blower speed is set to the last user setting.
-the air inlet mode is set to the last user setting.
-the auxiliary electric heater is enabled if needed (diesel engines only).
For warm ambient air temperatures (above 27°C (80°F)):
-the airflow mode is set to MAX A/C.
-the temperature is set to full COOL.
-the blower speed is set to HIGH.
-the air inlet mode is set to RECIRC.
-the auxiliary electric heater is not enabled (diesel engines only).
They also do the same thing pretty much for the Dual zone automatic climate control....targeting 72 degree cabin temp.
Thanks PowerStrokeHD for that cool info....I don't know how I would've found that out.



You did hear the part about where you put the receiver in reference to the mirror. The lower and more away from the metal on the cab, the better range you'll have.. Seriously it is nice to know how long it'll take when the wife asks, so please report back .....
Thanks
In going through the installation manual and watching the video; the only real headache part looks to be the installation of a flashing LED. Instructions call for mounting it on the drivers side dash; going to be a fair PITA to string the wire over. We'll see what kind of mood I'm in; I don't really feel the need to have a flashing LED, so it trying to disassemble the dash turns into a headache, I may just skip that step.
The other challenge will be stopping at a stealership to have the IDS programming done; I actually foresee that as being a bigger PITA than the LED
I spent some time this morning installing the 200 series remote starter/alarm.
From start to finish was 75 minutes, but I was interrupted by 4 phone calls and a 10 minute chat with my retiree neighbor; so in work time, call it an hour.
Having done it once, I'd probably be able to do this in half the time or less as I spent quite a bit of time double checking things, trying to figure out some of the drawings in the installation guide, etc.
Some thoughts....
1) If you watch the video, they pull the weather stripping off the passenger side to feed the antenna wire. I did this and it worked well; loosening the grab handle allowed me to slip the wire through from the headliner to the outside of the A pillar easily. If you keep the wire flat along the roof line, it just slide nicely under with no real effort.
2) Mounting the antenna - I mounted it so that the upper part of the antenna was even with the rear view mirror mount. I did this so I'd never have to see the antenna in my vision while driving.
3)Mounting the main module - It comes with double hook velcro on it. The problem was figuring out where Ford intended for it to be mounted. I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure it out; in the end, I left it loose until after I'd made all the connections and installed everything else. I ended up sticking on a metal bracket above the glove box. The location seems OK; the module straddles a couple of bolts, but they don't interfere with the install.
4) The "other" antenna that is included... Lots of folks claim that their trucks had it installed already, mine didn't. It's an awkward install and again the drawings are confusing on how to run the wiring. Use a couple of the included zip ties to lash it down. I went through the round holes near the ends of the antenna; in hindsight, I think it would work better to go through the square holes on the end.
I wasted 10 minutes or so trying to figure out the diagram and how the wire should be installed in the push pin holes. The best I can describe is that the diagram is drawn as if you're in the engine looking to the cab; where the wire runs horizontally is along the BACK of the metal frame you can see; you pretty much have to use your fingers to feel the hole for the push pins.
5) LED install - At first I debated installing this; seems like a lot of work for no real value. After looking at the dash carefully, I realized that I could pop out the Sync port and the 12V port from the middle of the dash (I have the full console, so no easy way to go under) and push the wire through from the glove box to the steering wheel side. It took about 60 seconds to get the wire pulled over.
I then pulled the lower part of the dash off on the drivers side. I was looking to install the LED on the upper half of the dash so it would be more visible, but I couldn't really find what I considered a safe spot to drill that also had enough room to get a drill into, so I installed on the lower part. I put the lower part back on and drilled the hole 2" down from the seam of upper/lower dash and in the middle of the width of dash (also about 2"). This does drill through the black framing that the dash cover attaches to, but in a clear spot. The hole is very, very tight if you go with the 9/32 bit. I reamed the black framing a bit larger just so the wiring could slide through easier.
A side note.... the LED is red and is continuous on... any other 3rd party alarm I've had was a flashing blue LED....
6)Closing everything up. I bundled up the extra wire for the LED and Program Override Button and tucked them up in the metal work above the glove box. I realized that sometime, somewhere that access to the program override button might be wanted, so I pulled that through the dash to the passenger side and left it where it could be reached and pulled out by opening the little fuel reset door on the side of the dash.
7) IDS update to activate the remote start. I drove over to the dealership where i purchased the kit. They were somewhat annoying; they'd do it, but they'd charge 1/2 hour labour and I'd need to leave them the truck for the day. I was willing to set up an appointment for next week, but even then they wouldn't guarantee I'd be able to get in and get out without an indeterminate wait. I booked an app't for Monday 7:00 AM, on the understanding that they operate first come first served and that it'd be a lot more likely to be out quickly.
Driving to a job site, I realized I was coming up to a different dealership. I pulled in just to see if they could work on a better schedule. The service adviser just gave me an "oh, let me check" when I asked about getting the remote start function turned on. Three minutes later a technician comes out carrying a laptop and asked where I was parked. He hooked up, made polite small talk and did what I needed. He asked if I'd received the instructions for the install from a forum and when I said yes, he told me that he's starting to get that a lot these days
. Anyway... no charge, have a nice day. I think I've found where I'll be going for service in the future.After that, it was back to the instructions to program the panic/car finder button and activate the security system. It all went exactly as the instructions said.
I can see where 30 minutes is a very reasonable time to install this if you're slow and do a good job. I lost time just trying to figure out a couple of module installation items.
All in all, pretty simple install, and it feels pretty darn good to have done it myself.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
So is it worth drilling through the dashboard to have the LEd LIght? I don't think one LED light is gonna detour someone from smashing your window on your truck....that's the only thing I'd skip if I get and install myself by the sounds of it...
Thanks.
Is it worth it? I guess it depends where you park at night. If you're usually in your own garage, probably not; if you park on the street, it can't hurt to install it.
Alarm systems don't even slow down the pros, but the LED will deter the lower level street punks wandering around.
The ultimate convenience. With the newest Ford remote start system, there’s no need to see the vehicle to know it has started. Simply press the start button: When the engine is up and running, the button flashes green and the key fob beeps to confirm. This system can start/stop the engine from up to 1,000 ft. (distance may vary depending on location and environment). It also features Panic and Car Find functions. Includes one bi-directional key fob. Dealer installation recommended. NOTE: Remote Start Hood Switch Kit (BC3Z-19G366-A) required if your truck is not equipped with a factory-installed hood switch.
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Ford plug-and-play remote starts requires the vehicle's electrical system to be CGEA compatible. The trucks didn't switch to that until the 2011 model year.





