Notices
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Key Problems, not returning to run, accesory

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 11, 2010 | 10:45 PM
  #1  
gwhpnut's Avatar
gwhpnut
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Depew, NY Near Buffalo,
Question Key Problems, not returning to run, accesory

Can anyone tell me if they have ever had this problem with an ignition key, and how to fix this? I turn the key to start the truck, it turns easy, but it ( the key) will not spring back to the accessory position, unless you turn it back yourself, it will keep the starter in-gauged. I went to the parts store to look at a new switch, but I do not see that the new tumbler has a spring or any way to bring it back to the run position either? Is there a spring further inside the column? even looking at the actuating arm picture at the store, (a part they can't get) it doesn't look like it has a spring either? My question is, what am I looking for and what part do I need? I did not try the new tumbler as I thought I would ask first, and to me, it did not seem like the part I needed? any help would be appreciated, victor

 
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2010 | 10:53 PM
  #2  
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2
Moderator
25 Year Member
Photogenic
Community Builder
Community Influencer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
Club FTE Gold Member
I bought a new electrical part of the switch(down under the dash, on top of the column) and shot wd40 down into the tumbler, and it helped my 80 tremendously. It really gets bad in cold weather, and yes, this is a very common problem with these trucks. Make sure you turn the key back into the correct position or strange things start to happen, like your wipers will quit working.
 
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2010 | 10:58 PM
  #3  
gwhpnut's Avatar
gwhpnut
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Depew, NY Near Buffalo,
thanks, but what part?

yeah I noticed that the radio and wipers and all accessories do not work unless yo put exactly where it needs to be, in the run position. do you know what part I need to replace to get it to spring back to the run spot? the switch itself turns very easy, so I don't think lube will help? but I'm willing to try it? should I take the tumbler out first? Thanks, vic
 
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2010 | 11:37 PM
  #4  
ctubutis's Avatar
ctubutis
Moderator
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Club FTE Gold Member
The spring is part of the column-mounted ignition switch, I cleaned mine up and lubed it
with dielectric grease, that combined with cleaning & lubricating the gears actuated by the
tumbler (I used white lithium grease) seems to have worked for me.
 
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2010 | 11:57 PM
  #5  
gwhpnut's Avatar
gwhpnut
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Depew, NY Near Buffalo,
I'll give it a try, Thanks, for the advise, if that doesn't work? what are the main components to this set up inside the column? I can get the tumbler, the part the key fits in everywhere, but what parts are in the column itself: that would be suspect? I want this truck to be just right, I just got her, a 1984 with only 36,400 miles! all documented! every oil change and gas fill up too!! all original paperwork and stickers too, for 3500. this and tires is about all she needs to look showroom, I was hoping for a 79 down, but this came up, and I couldn't pass her up. Oh yeah, there is one other thing I'd like to bring it back to stock, the center plastic that goes around the radio and heater controls, as the last owner put in a Kenwood stereo... he said he'd ship the original radio if he finds it, but he cut a big square hole in the plastic to put the Kenwood in???? so if you know a place to find this new or re-manufactured, that would be cool too, Thanks, guys, I guess I found a great site here, quick answers, unlike the Mustang forum, Thanks, vic
 
Reply
Old Dec 12, 2010 | 12:34 AM
  #6  
ctubutis's Avatar
ctubutis
Moderator
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Club FTE Gold Member
The key tumbler & ignition switch are all mechanical devices, you should be able to open it
up (remove the steering wheel & turn signal switch to get at gears, drop the column to get
at ignition switch) and observe its operation. Cripe, with only 36k miles it might not even be
worth removing the wheel, you might just drop the column to remove & inspect the switch.

You can turn the key tumbler with the switch disconnected fro its actuating rod and see if
you can detect any binding, THEN open up the steering whee if you want.

You want the center bezel, there are a few different variants, check out this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-on-bezel.html

Dennis Carpenter (Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100
Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts
) *may* sell 'em,
I really don't know for sure. Best place I know of is the junk yard.

Hey, do me a favor and click User CP in the upper LH corner, then go through the stuff in
the LH column and add your location & truck info in there so we know where you're from.
 
Reply
Old Dec 12, 2010 | 01:44 PM
  #7  
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2
Moderator
25 Year Member
Photogenic
Community Builder
Community Influencer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
Club FTE Gold Member
I recommend you lube what you can first. Columns are not fun to work on, with lots of fiddly parts inside to get assembled correctly. You can take the column down and take the wheel off and inspect what's going on like was said previously, but hopefully some lube here and there will make it start working better.
 
Reply
Old Nov 18, 2014 | 11:17 PM
  #8  
jeffcooter's Avatar
jeffcooter
New User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Hi Victor -

Did you ever figure out what was wrong with your linkage/return spring? The issue you had back in Dec 2010 sounds a lot like what I am dealing with. I have a string i started earlier today with more details. Any pointers would be much appreciated.

Thanks a bunch,
jeffcooter
 
Reply
FTE Stories

Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

story-0

10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)

 Michael S. Palmer
story-1

Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath

 Verdad Gallardo
story-2

Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer

 Joe Kucinski
story-3

2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)

 Brett Foote
story-4

Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies

 Joe Kucinski
story-5

AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make

 Brett Foote
story-6

Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!

 Michael S. Palmer
story-7

Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home

 Verdad Gallardo
story-8

10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!

 Joe Kucinski
story-9

2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?

 Brett Foote
Old Nov 19, 2014 | 05:48 AM
  #9  
gwhpnut's Avatar
gwhpnut
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Depew, NY Near Buffalo,
Lube the rod and buy the switch at the end of the column.

Lube what you can on the column, but the real problem is the cheap ignition switch at the base of the column, it didn't cost much on Ebay, I found a NOS part for cheap, I don't think they coast much new either. It was an easy fix for a problem that drove me crazy and a few shops as well...they couldn't figure it out? I had to resort to the forums as well, and this is what they suggested to me, and it worked!!! Turns out the switch is operated by a long rod from where the key is, all the way down the column..the switch is at the bottom of the column at the rod end. Hope this helps?...victor
 
Reply
Old Nov 19, 2014 | 10:55 AM
  #10  
jeffcooter's Avatar
jeffcooter
New User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Thanks a bunch, Victor. So maybe i'll just drop the column and check to be sure the ignition rod is sliding into the switch (to conclude everything upstream of that is working). Then just replace the switch, if so. So there is some spring mechanism in the switch that pushes the ignition rod back and returns the tumbler back to the run position?

Appreciate the feedback very much!

jeff
 
Reply
Old Nov 19, 2014 | 11:01 AM
  #11  
gwhpnut's Avatar
gwhpnut
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Depew, NY Near Buffalo,
Yep, The spring is in the switch!!!

Yes, the spring is in the switch, replace that and you should have no troubles. Even after I had the rod lubed up it still was sticking, only replacing the switch fixed the problem. To look at it, you wouldn't think the switch spring would do the job, but it does.
 
Reply
Old Nov 19, 2014 | 12:52 PM
  #12  
jeffcooter's Avatar
jeffcooter
New User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Great. Thanks for the quick feedback, Vic. The switch costs $14 bucks so i'm just going to replace and see if that does the trick. This board is really awesome.

jeff
 
Reply
Old Jan 21, 2015 | 01:15 PM
  #13  
ducks in a row's Avatar
ducks in a row
New User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Key not returning after starting

Hi I had a similar problem with my '03 EB Expedition and tried multiple things to try and fix the issue. nothing worked and finally had trouble turning the key and removing it or inserting it. the fix was to replace the lock cylinder altogether my truck is equipped with a PATs anti theft system. pretty simple. and I took some notes after completing the job. mine took a Dorman 924-710 ignition lock cylinder I think it was about $93.00.
1. remove the 2 Phillips screws holding the lower shroud around the steering column
2. remove the shroud it took a bit of work but it will come off.
3. remove the 7/32 hex head screw holding the PATs antenna from around the key cylinder
4. insert the key into the cylinder lock and turn to the run position.
5. find the small hole on the bottom of the lock assm. and depress clip with a small tip screw driver or pick and wiggle the lock and key out of the column.
6. the Dorman kit comes with a tool to help remove the tumbler section, new springs and tumbler pins and gives direction on how to rekey the lock cylinder for your old key there are videos on line that show you how to do this not too hard, just take your time.
7. reinsert the new tumbler back into the cylinder make sure you key works and install all back in the reverse order.
as a note my assembly had 1 tumbler location that did not match the new lock so it took a little trial and error to get the key working but all you need it with the kit.


Good luck
 
Reply
Old Jan 21, 2015 | 04:54 PM
  #14  
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2
Moderator
25 Year Member
Photogenic
Community Builder
Community Influencer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
Club FTE Gold Member
Wrong forum. Ours are not like a 03 expedition.
 
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2018 | 10:37 PM
  #15  
lchas's Avatar
lchas
New User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by jeffcooter
Great. Thanks for the quick feedback, Vic. The switch costs $14 bucks so i'm just going to replace and see if that does the trick. This board is really awesome.

jeff
I went to autozone today and got a complete key and tumbler assy, also new switch still would not spring back, took the switch back they refunded my money, went to o'rielly and got another, still no spring back, the rod going to the switch moves back and forth like it should!!! I am lost now if anyone has any ideas they would be appreciated!!!
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
runner32
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
60
Oct 23, 2023 12:54 PM
jlj6t
335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland
9
Feb 4, 2018 01:36 PM
HaydukeLives
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Feb 2, 2018 07:46 AM
Bakerr
1999 - 2016 Super Duty
7
Apr 2, 2016 08:46 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:39 AM.

story-0
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)

Slideshow: the best gifts for dads & grads

By Michael S. Palmer | 2026-06-02 21:45:57


VIEW MORE
story-1
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath

Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.

By Verdad Gallardo | 2026-05-30 18:33:59


VIEW MORE
story-2
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer

Slideshow: 10 most expensive Ford trucks ever sold on Bring a Trailer.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-05-27 16:24:34


VIEW MORE
story-3
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)

Here's everything that has changed for the latest model year.

By Brett Foote | 2026-05-27 16:17:28


VIEW MORE
story-4
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies

Slideshow: Top 10 Ford truck tragedies.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-05-18 19:34:33


VIEW MORE
story-5
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make

And it might be even better than that.

By Brett Foote | 2026-05-18 19:26:42


VIEW MORE
story-6
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!

Slideshow: Does lowering an F-150 Lobo RUIN the ride quality?

By Michael S. Palmer | 2026-05-18 19:20:37


VIEW MORE
story-7
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home

Slideshow: Ford's bizarre fishing-themed Explorer concept has resurfaced after spending decades largely forgotten.

By Verdad Gallardo | 2026-05-12 18:07:46


VIEW MORE
story-8
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!

Slideshow: The 10 best Ford truck engines we miss the most.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-05-12 13:09:47


VIEW MORE
story-9
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?

Slideshow: first look at the 810 hp 2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road!

By Brett Foote | 2026-05-12 12:50:07


VIEW MORE