Key Problems, not returning to run, accesory
#1
Key Problems, not returning to run, accesory
Can anyone tell me if they have ever had this problem with an ignition key, and how to fix this? I turn the key to start the truck, it turns easy, but it ( the key) will not spring back to the accessory position, unless you turn it back yourself, it will keep the starter in-gauged. I went to the parts store to look at a new switch, but I do not see that the new tumbler has a spring or any way to bring it back to the run position either? Is there a spring further inside the column? even looking at the actuating arm picture at the store, (a part they can't get) it doesn't look like it has a spring either? My question is, what am I looking for and what part do I need? I did not try the new tumbler as I thought I would ask first, and to me, it did not seem like the part I needed? any help would be appreciated, victor
#2
I bought a new electrical part of the switch(down under the dash, on top of the column) and shot wd40 down into the tumbler, and it helped my 80 tremendously. It really gets bad in cold weather, and yes, this is a very common problem with these trucks. Make sure you turn the key back into the correct position or strange things start to happen, like your wipers will quit working.
#3
thanks, but what part?
yeah I noticed that the radio and wipers and all accessories do not work unless yo put exactly where it needs to be, in the run position. do you know what part I need to replace to get it to spring back to the run spot? the switch itself turns very easy, so I don't think lube will help? but I'm willing to try it? should I take the tumbler out first? Thanks, vic
#5
I'll give it a try, Thanks, for the advise, if that doesn't work? what are the main components to this set up inside the column? I can get the tumbler, the part the key fits in everywhere, but what parts are in the column itself: that would be suspect? I want this truck to be just right, I just got her, a 1984 with only 36,400 miles! all documented! every oil change and gas fill up too!! all original paperwork and stickers too, for 3500. this and tires is about all she needs to look showroom, I was hoping for a 79 down, but this came up, and I couldn't pass her up. Oh yeah, there is one other thing I'd like to bring it back to stock, the center plastic that goes around the radio and heater controls, as the last owner put in a Kenwood stereo... he said he'd ship the original radio if he finds it, but he cut a big square hole in the plastic to put the Kenwood in???? so if you know a place to find this new or re-manufactured, that would be cool too, Thanks, guys, I guess I found a great site here, quick answers, unlike the Mustang forum, Thanks, vic
#6
The key tumbler & ignition switch are all mechanical devices, you should be able to open it
up (remove the steering wheel & turn signal switch to get at gears, drop the column to get
at ignition switch) and observe its operation. Cripe, with only 36k miles it might not even be
worth removing the wheel, you might just drop the column to remove & inspect the switch.
You can turn the key tumbler with the switch disconnected fro its actuating rod and see if
you can detect any binding, THEN open up the steering whee if you want.
You want the center bezel, there are a few different variants, check out this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-on-bezel.html
Dennis Carpenter (Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100
Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts) *may* sell 'em,
I really don't know for sure. Best place I know of is the junk yard.
Hey, do me a favor and click User CP in the upper LH corner, then go through the stuff in
the LH column and add your location & truck info in there so we know where you're from.
up (remove the steering wheel & turn signal switch to get at gears, drop the column to get
at ignition switch) and observe its operation. Cripe, with only 36k miles it might not even be
worth removing the wheel, you might just drop the column to remove & inspect the switch.
You can turn the key tumbler with the switch disconnected fro its actuating rod and see if
you can detect any binding, THEN open up the steering whee if you want.
You want the center bezel, there are a few different variants, check out this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-on-bezel.html
Dennis Carpenter (Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100
Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts) *may* sell 'em,
I really don't know for sure. Best place I know of is the junk yard.
Hey, do me a favor and click User CP in the upper LH corner, then go through the stuff in
the LH column and add your location & truck info in there so we know where you're from.
#7
I recommend you lube what you can first. Columns are not fun to work on, with lots of fiddly parts inside to get assembled correctly. You can take the column down and take the wheel off and inspect what's going on like was said previously, but hopefully some lube here and there will make it start working better.
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#8
#9
Lube the rod and buy the switch at the end of the column.
Lube what you can on the column, but the real problem is the cheap ignition switch at the base of the column, it didn't cost much on Ebay, I found a NOS part for cheap, I don't think they coast much new either. It was an easy fix for a problem that drove me crazy and a few shops as well...they couldn't figure it out? I had to resort to the forums as well, and this is what they suggested to me, and it worked!!! Turns out the switch is operated by a long rod from where the key is, all the way down the column..the switch is at the bottom of the column at the rod end. Hope this helps?...victor
#10
Thanks a bunch, Victor. So maybe i'll just drop the column and check to be sure the ignition rod is sliding into the switch (to conclude everything upstream of that is working). Then just replace the switch, if so. So there is some spring mechanism in the switch that pushes the ignition rod back and returns the tumbler back to the run position?
Appreciate the feedback very much!
jeff
Appreciate the feedback very much!
jeff
#11
Yep, The spring is in the switch!!!
Yes, the spring is in the switch, replace that and you should have no troubles. Even after I had the rod lubed up it still was sticking, only replacing the switch fixed the problem. To look at it, you wouldn't think the switch spring would do the job, but it does.
#13
Key not returning after starting
Hi I had a similar problem with my '03 EB Expedition and tried multiple things to try and fix the issue. nothing worked and finally had trouble turning the key and removing it or inserting it. the fix was to replace the lock cylinder altogether my truck is equipped with a PATs anti theft system. pretty simple. and I took some notes after completing the job. mine took a Dorman 924-710 ignition lock cylinder I think it was about $93.00.
1. remove the 2 Phillips screws holding the lower shroud around the steering column
2. remove the shroud it took a bit of work but it will come off.
3. remove the 7/32 hex head screw holding the PATs antenna from around the key cylinder
4. insert the key into the cylinder lock and turn to the run position.
5. find the small hole on the bottom of the lock assm. and depress clip with a small tip screw driver or pick and wiggle the lock and key out of the column.
6. the Dorman kit comes with a tool to help remove the tumbler section, new springs and tumbler pins and gives direction on how to rekey the lock cylinder for your old key there are videos on line that show you how to do this not too hard, just take your time.
7. reinsert the new tumbler back into the cylinder make sure you key works and install all back in the reverse order.
as a note my assembly had 1 tumbler location that did not match the new lock so it took a little trial and error to get the key working but all you need it with the kit.
Good luck
1. remove the 2 Phillips screws holding the lower shroud around the steering column
2. remove the shroud it took a bit of work but it will come off.
3. remove the 7/32 hex head screw holding the PATs antenna from around the key cylinder
4. insert the key into the cylinder lock and turn to the run position.
5. find the small hole on the bottom of the lock assm. and depress clip with a small tip screw driver or pick and wiggle the lock and key out of the column.
6. the Dorman kit comes with a tool to help remove the tumbler section, new springs and tumbler pins and gives direction on how to rekey the lock cylinder for your old key there are videos on line that show you how to do this not too hard, just take your time.
7. reinsert the new tumbler back into the cylinder make sure you key works and install all back in the reverse order.
as a note my assembly had 1 tumbler location that did not match the new lock so it took a little trial and error to get the key working but all you need it with the kit.
Good luck
#14
#15
I went to autozone today and got a complete key and tumbler assy, also new switch still would not spring back, took the switch back they refunded my money, went to o'rielly and got another, still no spring back, the rod going to the switch moves back and forth like it should!!! I am lost now if anyone has any ideas they would be appreciated!!!
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