Anyone had this problem???

Background:
1979 F-150, 2WD, Auto C6, power steering
Newly built (by TMI, so it's done right) 400, Aussie 302C 2V heads
Sanderson FC3 shorty headers

Got the engine from TMI this past week, so I got around to dropping it into the cradle today. Mounted the Sandersons while it was on the stand. New motor mounts from NPD.

Dropped engine+headers into the truck, engine motor mount studs engaged their respective perch slots fine. Easily lowered the engine the last bit, passenger-side motor mount pad is all the way down and flush. Driver's side stud is in the slot, but there's still an inch or so of daylight between the perch and the mount. After some quick investigating, I see that the driver-side header is resting on the newly-replaced Red Head stock steering gear!

Raised the engine, removed the offending header, dropped the engine again, it sits just like she's supposed to. Tried to install the offending header from below, thinking that might do the trick, but it still makes contact with the gear, so much so that the header won't line up with the bolt holes. I am attempting to use the copper 2V adapter plate supplied by Sanderson, but it's not thick enough to make up THIS much interference...

Anyone with an Aussie-headed 351M/400 in a 2WD truck successfully installed these Sanderson FC3 headers? And maybe have a picture to post of the driver-side header/steering gear?

HELP! Was hoping to get this thunder beast fired up this weekend, but it's not looking good...

Thanks in advance!

Headerless in Huntsville

Justin

 

Some pics to help show the problem...anyone see anything stupid?

 

I've seen this alot with aftermarket exhaust headers. What I've seen is the pipe that has the clearance issue is dented to clear the obstruction. Obviously not the ideal way to solve your problem, especially with new coated headers. What is the manufacturer's solution?

 

Nick @ Sanderson took a look at the above pics, said he’s got another header that seems to fit closer to the block, should free up about a ¼” or so. Between that and maybe removing the copper adapter plate, sounds like it’ll work. He’s going to get it coated and sent here. Should be here middle of next week or so. I'm to try it on, see if it works. If it does, great, send the offending one back, done and done. If it doesn’t, we’ll try something else.

I LOVE GOOD CUSTOMER SERVICE.

Gives me more time to finish the plumbing!

 

Sounds like good news, I hope that's the solution. I got lucky with my headers. The fit was real tight on the passenger side, about a 1/16" clearance under the cross-member, I just notched the cross-member a little for additional clearance.

 

UPDATE:

Sanderson's replacement header arrived this afternoon. Had it on the truck in 30 minutes. Perfect fit.

Kinda odd...it was an FC4 header.

Still would like to hear if anyone else has had this problem. Anyway, my winning recipe with the Aussie-headed 400 in a 79 2WD F-150 and Sanderson shorties was a FC4 on the driver side and a FC3 on the passenger side.

Should fire it up this weekend...frickin' stoked!

 

That's very good to hear. So, a earlier 70's header fit the drivers side, interesting.
Justin, if you will, get a video of the engine after you get it up and running, very anxious to hear that baby running!

 

WILCO on the video. First one will more than likely be open headers...

I've gotta get it running a bit so I can fill the trans fluid, before I can get it on the road and to the exhaust shop.

Got the fuel plumbed, air is NOW good to go with the headers installed, and spark is all wired. Just gotta get the trans cooler lines, vacuum modulator, radiator, starter, alternator, ps pump, and brake booster vacuum line hooked up. And then hope I don't have any bolts left over!

 

just the fram oil filter.

 

Dear 80,
Do you think FC3's will fit on my 1977, F100, 400 with 351M heads and stock gear box? or should I ask Sanderson for right side FC3 and driver's side FC4? Thanks/Robert