Truck has been difficult to start recently when temps fall below 20 unless plugged in, need to cycle ignition a couple of times before it will start. If temps below 10 it needs to be plugged in to start at all.

The other day, the temps were in the 20s. The truck started after cycling the ignition 3 times. Ran a little rough like normal for 30 seconds or so, and then ran great. Warmed up 10 minutes or so before heading to town. Half way to town, was accelerating away from a stop sign and the engine just quit. Electrical all works, truck turns over but will not fire. No smoke from exhaust. I can hear the injectors rattle before and after shutdown.

Pulled it home and went on a business trip. Got home yesterday, it is 40 out. Thought I would try the truck but it still wont fire. Pulled fuel filters and they are all ok, both fuel bowls have fuel in them, no water in separator. Running No 1 diesel with Power Service winter additive so no gelling.

After reading here, would these symptoms be consistent with a fried FICM? Going to crack into it to test the voltage as soon as I get back from town tonight. Any other thoughts?

Last flash was in 2006 when I took the truck in before the warranty ended. No service or mods on the truck other than a couple of recalls early on.

Thanks for your input.

2004 F250, 6.0L PSD, 153,000 miles mostly on the highway, no mods

 

I would say FICM is a good place to start. Make sure your batteries are good and hot.

 

After fighting through the blizzard I finally got the volt meter out to test the FICM. First screw measured 47.7 volts, second measured 10, third and fourth measured 0. Suspect to me and will pull it out and work on it.

Is this likely the problem that caused the truck to die while driving with a warm engine or should I be looking for something else?

TIA

 

When my ficm went out the truck was almost impossible to start when cold and this was in the summer. once it was warmed up it ran fine and restarted easily. It never died while warmed up. I checked all the points for voltage and everything worked out. Took it to ford and it was the ficm. The only time it ever died while running was when the fuel filter cap on the frame rail was loose.

 

Have you read the FICM test in the tech folder? IIRC the screw nearest to the fender to frame should read about 47v with the key on engine off. It should read a similar voltage while trying to start.
Try this link http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43705

 

Read the test procedure again and did it right this time. Key off was 0 volts, key on with injectors buzzing 47.7 volts, key on while turning the truck over saw a drop in voltage to 34 for a second and then up to 48 while cranking engine. Appears the FICM is functional...

Any other thoughts? Wiring harness was replaced under a recall and don"t see any external signs of chaffing. Batteries brand new last summer and test okay. Still don"t see a problem with fuel pumps but can"t test pressures. Probably time to throw in the towel and send the truck in. I feel a big repair bill coming...

 

Sounds like your fuel might be jelled in the lines.

 

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? That would tell you if the fuel lines were gelled.
But didn't you say that you had warmed the truck and it died on the way to town? That says that fuel was circulating through the tank and the fuel heater. Check the fuel heater?
When did you last change the fuel filters?

 

really need a way to pull codes to go any deeper. Need a way to check fuel pressure will have to have a gauge for this one. HPO pressure, and a few other things you need to look at can be had through the obd II port via a scangauge $150 (I think) at autozone.

 

FICM isn't supposed to ever drop below 45v. Sounds like a bad FICM to me

 

Not sure how you decided that the FICM was good?? I agree w/ npccpartsman - it is more than likely bad.

What folks need to realize is that EVEN IF THE VOLTAGE CHECKS OUT UNDER ALL TEST CONDITIONS, the FICM can STILL be bad.

 

Bouncing back from knee surgery now. Did pick up a diagnostic tool and it only pulled a P0470 (exhaust back pressure sensor malfunction). Don't think that would cause my problem. Next step is checking fuel pressures when I feel like crawling around under the hood.

 

Especially if it is not a factory / Ford certified reman part.

Lots of dud FICMs floating around, including those "improved" by people substituting sub-standard parts.

 

At the very least, you should have it back to the dealer for another reflash. The post key-off injector buzz strategy is a very old calibration strategy that has since been updated a couple times to the latest version which pre-cycle the injectors at a different frequency to help with cold start issues like you describe.

 

my ficm would drop to 27v when injectors were buzzing, then back to 47v when they were done and it ran fine.re-soldered the connectors and got the voltage where it should be,but i never had any of these described problems.maybe i was lucky?.