Died while driving, now no start...
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 513
Likes: 10
From: Sunny San Diego
SADLY... my Exco still won't start.
... is there a process to re-prime the fuel? ...as if it had ran out of fuel? ...or, not needed? (I did cycle the key several times, and turn it over again and again. Good strong battery still... for now anyway)
Not that this has much to do with it, but... recently (last year 9/09), I had a high pressure fuel pump die... and 6 months later my turbo lose boost (they pulled the motor, and also repaired a main seal leak). So thats all been done and corrected under warranty.
What's next to test, repair, replace?!
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Lakewood, Ca.
Cycle the key a few times before trying it again...you might also take off the cap on the upper filter to see if the bowl is filling.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 513
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From: Sunny San Diego
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
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Next step:
A) test pressure
You can have a pressure test and not enough volume.
B) Off hand, I say don't give up yet... you can have a huge bubble in there.. and that takes time to get out.
i.e. full throttle, crank repeatedly (cap closed) with rest to prevent starter being killed, and see if it catches.
Highly dangerous... starting aid ... not recommended.
But a running engine primes far better...
If pressure test don't pass... you are talking about new pump... so lets see what happens first with priming.
A) test pressure
You can have a pressure test and not enough volume.
B) Off hand, I say don't give up yet... you can have a huge bubble in there.. and that takes time to get out.
i.e. full throttle, crank repeatedly (cap closed) with rest to prevent starter being killed, and see if it catches.
Highly dangerous... starting aid ... not recommended.
But a running engine primes far better...
If pressure test don't pass... you are talking about new pump... so lets see what happens first with priming.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 513
Likes: 10
From: Sunny San Diego
Okee dokee... to do this, I'd need an adapter, a fuel pressure gauge and whatever else (like a braided line) to make this work. Or does my local Napa sell such a gem? (just asking, before I do a google search for something I won't know if it'll work or not)
Like here; http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/DM-FPA60_installed.htm
B) Off hand, I say don't give up yet... you can have a huge bubble in there.. and that takes time to get out.
i.e. full throttle, crank repeatedly (cap closed) with rest to prevent starter being killed, and see if it catches.
Highly dangerous... starting aid ... not recommended.
But a running engine primes far better...
If pressure test don't pass... you are talking about new pump... so lets see what happens first with priming.
i.e. full throttle, crank repeatedly (cap closed) with rest to prevent starter being killed, and see if it catches.
Highly dangerous... starting aid ... not recommended.
But a running engine primes far better...
If pressure test don't pass... you are talking about new pump... so lets see what happens first with priming.
)... back to that, which part is "highly dangerous"??
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 42,085
Likes: 6
From: Lakewood, Ca.
Back to your filter change...did you replace and lubricate the o-rings for the caps, and lube the o-ring on the bottom filter? .Did you snap the filters into their respective caps before installing them?
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 513
Likes: 10
From: Sunny San Diego
You're not. I don't know of any reason to step on the accelerator when trying to start your truck.
Back to your filter change...did you replace and lubricate the o-rings for the caps, and lube the o-ring on the bottom filter? .Did you snap the filters into their respective caps before installing them?
Back to your filter change...did you replace and lubricate the o-rings for the caps, and lube the o-ring on the bottom filter? .Did you snap the filters into their respective caps before installing them?
I did lube the o-rings with some water-proof grease I use for other things (not the water proof type I use for wheel bearings)... And I did push the filter into the cap (on the top smaller filter), however I did not on the bottom. On the bottom, I put the filter in first and made sure it felt like it seated. Then put the cap on.
Which brings up a point....
My lower larger filter, looked like this one;
http://i.ytimg.com/vi/czJNyDIn7tM/0.jpg
The replacement I bought from FORD, looked like this one;
http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/D...-4604-200x.jpg
Notice the difference in the 'seat' that goes into the pump (opposite end of the cap). One is nearly a female, and the other a male (with o-ring) type.... should this be a huge cause for concern?! I almost haulted my change out of the filters due to this... but, didn't... and the replacement seemed to go in okay, with the cap tightening down without problems.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 42,085
Likes: 6
From: Lakewood, Ca.
Not at all...the new filter you installed is an updated part, and correct for your application.
You really do need to snap that lower filter into the cap before installation though...I know it's kinda tough with 4wd, but with some long extensions you can get it done. I hope you didn't crush the filter
You really do need to snap that lower filter into the cap before installation though...I know it's kinda tough with 4wd, but with some long extensions you can get it done. I hope you didn't crush the filter
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 513
Likes: 10
From: Sunny San Diego
Not at all...the new filter you installed is an updated part, and correct for your application.
You really do need to snap that lower filter into the cap before installation though...I know it's kinda tough with 4wd, but with some long extensions you can get it done. I hope you didn't crush the filter
You really do need to snap that lower filter into the cap before installation though...I know it's kinda tough with 4wd, but with some long extensions you can get it done. I hope you didn't crush the filter
I can check the filter, but I'm pretty sure it felt 'right'. I'm not a diesel mechanic, but I'm surely not common-sense dumb (I know... my previous comments might haunt me!
) and truly not a neanderthal on the wrench. I'm going to try a few more times once I know my batteries are a bit more refreshed. But, I'm coming to a point here... where, it seems the filters weren't the problem... and now it's time to check the "fuel pressure"?
If the FICM died, it wouldn't change my fuel pressure... right? And my question about a fuel-pressure-gauge, is there an easy build... or Napa part I could use? ...I know checking fuel pressure will be a one time thing in this household (I hope). Suggestions for next step?
This seems reasonable; (from here; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5040228)
2. Under hood mechanical fuel pressure guage;
The fitting for the rear of the fuel bowl is male SAE 20 o-ring to Fm 1/8 NPT. You can find this at a hydraulics store that sells Parker fittings. About $2 to $3. While you are there you can pick up a 100PSI oil filled guage for about $8 to $10,( you can also get one from a bigbox auto parts store, it just costs a little more) and a 12 to 16 inch 1/8th NPT Male to Female hose for $5 to $7. This mod you will need some thread locker for, don't use teflon tape on the fuel system due to little pieces that may come off from the threading and clog up an injector nozzle. A bracket to hold the guage off the alternator can be fashioned from whatever strap metal you may have laying around. use the same R drill bit and the 1/8NPT tap to mount the guage to the bracket you fashion.
total cost about $20
The fitting for the rear of the fuel bowl is male SAE 20 o-ring to Fm 1/8 NPT. You can find this at a hydraulics store that sells Parker fittings. About $2 to $3. While you are there you can pick up a 100PSI oil filled guage for about $8 to $10,( you can also get one from a bigbox auto parts store, it just costs a little more) and a 12 to 16 inch 1/8th NPT Male to Female hose for $5 to $7. This mod you will need some thread locker for, don't use teflon tape on the fuel system due to little pieces that may come off from the threading and clog up an injector nozzle. A bracket to hold the guage off the alternator can be fashioned from whatever strap metal you may have laying around. use the same R drill bit and the 1/8NPT tap to mount the guage to the bracket you fashion.
total cost about $20
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 42,085
Likes: 6
From: Lakewood, Ca.
Well...even if it isn't the filters, they were due anyway 
IMO though, if you're still seeing bubbles in the fuel bowl after cycling the key a few times there's a problem...I think it's sucking air from somewhere. That's why I brought up snapping the cap into the lower filter 
The FICM doesn't have anything to do with the fuel pressure... all it does is control the firing of the injectors. There's a procedure for checking it (and a lot of other stuff) in the tech folder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
IMO though, if you're still seeing bubbles in the fuel bowl after cycling the key a few times there's a problem...I think it's sucking air from somewhere. That's why I brought up snapping the cap into the lower filter The FICM doesn't have anything to do with the fuel pressure... all it does is control the firing of the injectors. There's a procedure for checking it (and a lot of other stuff) in the tech folder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 513
Likes: 10
From: Sunny San Diego
Well...even if it isn't the filters, they were due anyway IMO though, if you're still seeing bubbles in the fuel bowl after cycling the key a few times there's a problem...I think it's sucking air from somewhere. That's why I brought up snapping the cap into the lower filter
The FICM doesn't have anything to do with the fuel pressure... all it does is control the firing of the injectors. There's a procedure for checking it (and a lot of other stuff) in the tech folder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
IMO though, if you're still seeing bubbles in the fuel bowl after cycling the key a few times there's a problem...I think it's sucking air from somewhere. That's why I brought up snapping the cap into the lower filter The FICM doesn't have anything to do with the fuel pressure... all it does is control the firing of the injectors. There's a procedure for checking it (and a lot of other stuff) in the tech folder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
I've not gotten anymore bubbles... only from the initial "prime" or after changing the lower filter, and watching the fuel pump into the upper filter 'bowl'. Now, when I remove the cap... there's fuel in the bowl, and it'll rise immediately if I turn the ignition key 'on'.
I'll still check the filter, but in the day light tomorrow.
Thanks for clarifying the FICM, and yes... I saw the testing procedure. I'm sure I'll check that tomorrow in the day, as well.
... one last question (for now); Can you flood a diesel with any of the processes I've been doing?
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 513
Likes: 10
From: Sunny San Diego
Okay... cool, thanks.
Not sure if this is going to help, but I don't get any smoke... from the exhaust when cranking the engine over. Nada... nothing... zilch.
Not sure if this is going to help, but I don't get any smoke... from the exhaust when cranking the engine over. Nada... nothing... zilch.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 42,085
Likes: 6
From: Lakewood, Ca.
Seems that if you were getting fuel and the injectors were firing you'd see some white puffs coming out. Maybe one of the techs will chime in here and give you a little more to go on, but other than checking out your FICM voltage I'm about tapped out here.