I'd love to... and a spare 6.0?

 

I know this "recall" has not been performed...
2005 FORD EXCURSION Recalls

I'm going to call my local dealer, and see what they say about an "out of warranty" vehicle, that needs the recall done... and if, and/or what... is, or isn't covered. Also, why wouldn't they have performed the recall when it's been in the shop the last 3 times (once, they pulled the motor!)?? Tell me the customer isn't supposed to be the one to invoke the recall repair!

I called; And the dealer explained a LOT... nice guy. He mentioned for my VIN, that recall is NOT applicable. So, I guess I don't have a wire chaffing issue...? (obviously, I won't rule that out), but he did mention that yes... emissions do cover a 7yr/70K mile warranty, and if it's an emission issue... it'd be covered (again, I knew that too). But it shows, he was being helpful.

.

 

UM... Recall extends beyond warranty date...

Why in the world did they pull motor?

You just got a free fix.. enjoy it.

 

... see my update, there is no "recall" per my VIN (per Ford)

Motor was pulled for a "main seal leak" repair. I took it in, just before warranty ended... with a check engine light (this year), and as I mentioned in a previous post... it was due to low boost. They replaced the turbo, and repaired the oil leak (under warranty). ...and yes, I am enjoying that "free" fix. That dealer is awesome! See here;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ech-buddy.html

 

Well... my "Craigslist" Ford Mechanic, came by tonight after he got off work. I had called him today on a fluke... and thought, "what the h*ll", I'll give it a shot. What's the worst he can do at this point?

... well, Rich showed up on time and even called when he was on his way to confirm. He went through some of my scenarios as to what has been happening (listened to me babble), and plugged in his scanner. Within a minute... Asked me if I had unplugged the ICP, and we went on for about 20min with this.

He pulled my Oil Filter, and noticed it was somewhat dry. Being I changed it yesterday, with my fuel filter (I thought while I was at it... change it) he wasn't as concerned... but still did the oil pressure check while I cranked it. He said my truck seemed to not be building oil pressure, or enough.... and immediately pulled the low side oil pressure regulator (12mm Allen Key gets you access). Said it looked good, and put it back in. He again, with the oil filter out... checked for pressure. Said it looked better, put the filter back in... and went over and started cranking. *wwwnnnnnnnnggggggggggggggg..VROOOOM* ...it started!

... after my smile wiped off my face, and as he took the low pressure regulator out again to clean it off and re-inspect it, as well as try and clean out it's orifice as best he could... we talked about how odd of a problem that was. And his best guess is that maybe when the pulled my motor and front plate... that they didn't clean it perfectly, and some crud helped the regulator stick a bit, causing enough of a low oil pressure situation and the truck shut down. It now starts, and runs just fine. All for his 1hr fee of $50!!!

BAD NEWS.... is, he noticed my coolant reservoir (or whatever you call that capture tank) low and near dry. So he pulled my EGR Valve and peered deep inside. Seems he thinks it's been leaking.... Due to a tiny buildup of carbon on the bottom of the EGR Valve location. EGR Valve itself was pretty clean considering I never have cleaned it myself (Not sure if Ford had or not) .... Per his instruction; I filled it up to the full line, and I'll "watch it" for a week to a month for change.

... he said Ford charges $3000 to repair it. New EGR Cooler, New Oil Cooler.... and labor, all fluids and gaskets. His cost, is $1800 (done)!

So the good news is, my truck runs. And it didn't cost me an arm/leg!
And the bad news is, sooner or later... I'll have another costly repair bill
(ya think it'd be covered under the "emission 7/70K warranty"??)

 

Glad you are alive...

Don't believe it is a bad EGR / Oil cooler just yet.

See my posts on filling the coolant degas bottle, and just watch it for a while (longer than a week) unless you are getting steam / coolant out tailpipe (immediate stop and risk of hydrolock).

See if you get lucky.

 

Johnny,

Reviewing these posts, I think I am of the view that we got to get you on a program of regular maintenance (even on a tight budget, it has to be done) once we get this thing working.

I am a tad concerned --- fuel filter... crud in oil jamming... coolant low... these are all signs that you could have caught in the past.

Lets sit down once the immediate crisis is past, and start a new thread, and see what we can do to lay out a hard nosed --- comprehensive examination of your vehicle, followed by a program of regular maintenance and checks.

I think this is essential for you to be a successful / low cost 6.0 owner.

Good luck.

 

JohnnyAirtime

The emissions warranty is 5 yrs / 100k miles. EGR cooler is part of the emissions warranty (no deductible). The oil cooler is not. Also, I would not fill the degas bottle to the max - you need room for normal expansion. Fill to the min line.

If you need a copy of your warranty booklet to verify the coverage, I can post a link - it has all the specifics in it.

BTW - the oil filter will depress and close a drain valve when it is the proper OEM filter and properly seated in the housing. With the oil filter out, I doubt that you will build proper pressure - and for sure you will not get much useful info from the OEM pressure sending unit and dash oil pressure gauge. The oil filter drain valve being open can cause a no-start by robbing flow from the HPOP.

 

There's so many posts (I just read an hour on EGRs and the big debate of retaining or deleting... when I was looking for your "coolant" posts)... how about linking me to some of them?

I agree... 100%
I also agree, that my maintenance regime was not what it should have been and more or less catered to a V10 owner ... and a horrible (newbie) Diesel owner (mind you it's my first diesel, and was my second car for the last 4-5yrs). I'm used to my little Toyota Truck maintenance (which is/was near none). Now, this EX is my main daily driver... and will get the maintenance it should have... day 1.

 

Coolant refill procedure.

DO what bismic says above --- fill to MIN line.

Mark the line COLD

From now on, every 2nd day, check fill --- and measure the amount of coolant (pre-mix or 50.50 Ford Gold) added to refill to MIN line when engine is COLD.

See if you keep losing coolant or the coolant "top ups" taper off after 1 or 2 gallons.

If it tapers off --- you just had a bad coolant change job (air in engine).

If it keeps leaking... come on back here.

Watch for signs of white smoke from tailpipe that smells like coolant --- if you see it.. stop driving and be aware of hydrolock risk.

 

Got ya... but the dealer phone call today, mentioned the 7/70K emission warranty. I did not. He brought it up saying "maybe" my truck could be looked at under this preconceived notion and if an emission problem... it'd be covered. I'll call again tomorrow, to see if I was a bad listener.

In the oil filter cavern... He did depress something with his screwdriver, as he watched the oil come up into the oil filer area (I've also read about this process)... he wasn't checking for "proper" pressure... just that the cavern wasn't dry (being my filters was completely dry, assuming from being new and the truck not starting) due to complete loss of oil pressure. The gauge only registered accurately post startup... which is obvious to us all, as to why.

Sorry if my initial post was confusing or mentioned something that may have seemed incorrect... or not accurately depicted, I didn't type out exactly what happened move for move. Just gave some pertinent highlights.

 

Actually (and I'm sure Mark will agree), it should be filled to the "min" line hot...that is the revised coolant level per Ford.

 

Well... you get my drift... Steve and Mark has spoken.

Let it be done.

 

Duly noted.

 

Because nobody suggested it, and I'm finding others who have had a similar issue as mine.... shouldn't it be posted into the "no start" tech notes??

As an example;
03 6.0 cranks no start - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

... I could post more "same" stories, but I think with it not being a "first check" on the list... is a problem. It's such a simple check to do... it should be a top 5, before diving in deeper and removing more of the outlying components to test things like the FICM. Don't ya agree?