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Another 'emissions glitch'. The Polaris Cleanfire system struggles with proper mixtures to meet emissions. The sleds were lean in the bottom end and midrange to pass the emissions tests. Most of the guys I know who had them go down had it happen in 'off throttle' and 'part throttle' positions, as opposed to the traditional meltdown at WOT.
On HCS and other forums there are guys running fuel controllers (PC3's, PC5's, Boondockers, etc) and are adding fuel in the lower and midrange in an effort to make the engines last. There are fuel maps available to program these depending on which factory calibration a sled has (different flashes).
Maybe you guys can give me some pointers. I have been tinkering with the thought of getting one this year, but since I have no experience on one ( as either driver or passenger), not sure what to actually look for. Not wanting a new one, but at least something I can boot around in out on the lake, etc.
Do lots of research Gal. Sounds like you'd be best with a air/fan cooled sled, polaris 550's or ski-doo 550's are pretty good sleds, reasonable price to buy and very cheap to maintain and run. When looking at used sleds, try to have someone check the engine compression, it should be around 140psi, each cylinder being within 10-15% of the other. Check compression cold and warm. Low compression? Walk away. The other thing would be to check the track for any cracking, tearing, or missing lugs. Basically indications of abuse.
Another 'emissions glitch'. The Polaris Cleanfire system struggles with proper mixtures to meet emissions. The sleds were lean in the bottom end and midrange to pass the emissions tests. Most of the guys I know who had them go down had it happen in 'off throttle' and 'part throttle' positions, as opposed to the traditional meltdown at WOT.
On HCS and other forums there are guys running fuel controllers (PC3's, PC5's, Boondockers, etc) and are adding fuel in the lower and midrange in an effort to make the engines last. There are fuel maps available to program these depending on which factory calibration a sled has (different flashes).
I've read various articles stating that the 2011's have been re-mapped to correct the lean conditions causing meltdown. For the first tank of fuel/break-in, I've put one liter of blue 2-stroke oil in the fuel as well as one liter of blue in the oil res. I'm wondering if it would do any harm to put say 1/2 a liter of blue with every tank of fuel while I have the sled to give some extra lubricity?? Can you see that doing any harm?
its been part of a snomobile break in procedure to add oil to the gas for the first tank or two. but as long as the oil injection is set properly I wouldn't do it for anymore than two tanks of fuel. the extra oil can carbon up the engine, and take a little from the performance.
they also say to vary the thottle position lots and not to run it wot for awaile, we did that for the first sled ot two we had but then just had to run the wot from new to see what she could do and they seemed to break in better for us that way.
I agree with Marlon, but I would verify oil pump timing after the first few tankfuls and initial 'cable stretch'. Then I feel extra iol will do more harm than good - plugs, sensors, injectors, filters, etc
Sherm, be sure to get the info correct on the ethanol/regular fuel resistors on these engines - its not a regular/premium function as was in the past...
true. This isn't the simple carb'd days. Blasted emissions baloney. As if there's enough sleds in the world running enough to do any significant damage to the environment... I like fuel injection for the ease of starting and smooth running, but for crying out loud, rich them up a tad!!
The sled came with 2 resistors. They install the 87 octane resistor at the shop, put the 91 in a tool case for me. The salesman told me to be very careful about using the 91 resistor because if you come to a gas station that only has regular, you'll wreck your motor. I chose to leave the 87 in there, but run premium when I can. This way there shouldn't be a problem when someone only has reg.
I suppose the resistor system may prove better than the reg/prem switch. Switches can become wore, bumped, or simply fail... The resistor should be a safer system.
There was also a warning about using the proper fuel de-icer with regular fuel because regular can have up to 10% ethenol in it already. One has to use Isopropyl based de-icer instead of the standard Methyl-hydrate, and only use 1/4 the amount also!!
As for break-in riding style, I'm always under the impression with toys that I should break them in according to my typical riding style. I drive my toys like I have turrets in my thumb. Average pace usually, with radical bursts of acceleration Love that BBRRRRAAAAAAAAAAPPPP...
Yes I was. Went for a short ride towards good spirit as far as I could go without getting into trouble. Where were you? Riding? Hope not, cause we should have went together if you were...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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