250 rear springs
#1
#2
Yup, I believe the only difference is one leaf in the spring setup (at least on my 92). Had a cracked one and found that it was easier to leave the top spring which was connected to the truck to remain attached and take apart the springs, reassemble on the truck. You might need a longer pin for that extra leaf. Mine did not have that extra 1 coil above - but I think that was the 350 series trucks that had that. It stiffened the ride a bit, if you're hauling the weight and need it, and regularly carry a load not a bad idea ......
#3
Yeah I might the rear supention on these 150s is mighty week I've been used to 250s and 350s. I was given this 150 and I like it for running to get parts but it squats when I sit on the tail gate. The rest of the truck seems to handle it, but you put some 5 gal buckets of hydraulic oil in the back and it looks like your hauling 2 palettes of mortor mix.
#4
I've heard that F-150 springs are narrower than F-250/350 springs. You could probably use F-250 spring hangers. U-bolts plates would be a problem. They'd need to be wide enough to span the wider springs, but have the hole spacing for the U-bolts for the smaller F-150 axle. So that would probably need to be custom. I'm not sure if there would be any issue with the spring perches on the axle.
#6
#7
My 150 is 4x4 and the donor truck was a 350 dually. But I robbed the helper spring set up for my service truck. I was hoping to use the rest to put under my 150.
How about the front lift blocks. I saw some on Amazon that were 2" blocks under the coil spring. Then looked on the rough country web site and they offered 2" taller springs.
How about the front lift blocks. I saw some on Amazon that were 2" blocks under the coil spring. Then looked on the rough country web site and they offered 2" taller springs.
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#9
For the front coils you should be able to get the camber corrected with camber alignment bushings up to 2'' of lift.I think anymore than that and you'll need drop brackets
Also lift blocks usually make trucks squat easier,you could also take some spring packs apart and build the setup how you want it,you'll just need new center pin bolts
Also lift blocks usually make trucks squat easier,you could also take some spring packs apart and build the setup how you want it,you'll just need new center pin bolts
#10
For the front coils you should be able to get the camber corrected with camber alignment bushings up to 2'' of lift.I think anymore than that and you'll need drop brackets
Also lift blocks usually make trucks squat easier,you could also take some spring packs apart and build the setup how you want it,you'll just need new center pin bolts
Also lift blocks usually make trucks squat easier,you could also take some spring packs apart and build the setup how you want it,you'll just need new center pin bolts
Axle wrap is the spring bending into an S shape when you mash the throttle because the pinion is trying its best to climb up the ring gear, the pinion nose starts pointing skyward, and if you get enough of it, things start to break. Like U joints, yokes, even the springs themselves.
However it's typically only an issue for people outside of mainstream uses. Offroaders with soft springs, brodozers with 12" blocks, anyone with a healthy 557 BBF under the hood.
#11
Yeah I might the rear supention on these 150s is mighty week I've been used to 250s and 350s. I was given this 150 and I like it for running to get parts but it squats when I sit on the tail gate. The rest of the truck seems to handle it, but you put some 5 gal buckets of hydraulic oil in the back and it looks like your hauling 2 palettes of mortor mix.
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