I know that people also talk about doing the oil cooler rings because they eventually add oil into the coolant or coolant into the oil. There is also a kit apparently that you use to redo where the oil dipstick goes into the oil pan (7.3's always leak there). Also, you may want to do some searching on this forum regarding injector cups. It would seem to me that they would be much more fun to do on the bench than in the van.

Finally can you tell me how you accomplished the compression test on the passenger side? I am having difficulty getting my compression tester adapter to thread into the glow plug holes under the tunnel on that side.

 

Did you see anything obviously wrong with the engine? Scratched cylinder walls, dropped valve, cracked piston, something?

 

I was able to do a compression test on all of the cylinders with the grease hose adapter that I made. No problems on either side, little tighter on the passenger side. I remember the adapter was harder to get lined up but I completed all 8 hole tests.
I already plan to do the oil cooler, turbo and fuel filter bowl rebuilds. I found the oil dip stick o-ring but will do a little more checking. I don't want to touch the injector cups if they are not bad but I am not sure how to test them. They are not really a wear item so if they are sealed they will stay sealed.
As for the damage, only thing I found was a severly scratched cylinder on the #4 hole. The piston had a broken ring and all the rings were stuck. Hence the 0psi compression. I did find some minor scratching on other cylinders. Valves all look good, no cracks or holes in pistons. Bearing show little wear and will be replaced in kind.

 

BWST posted an inexpensive Harbor Freight pressure kit which you pump up slightly to see if you are getting coolant into your cups. I think it is addressed here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-look-at.html

Otherwise PM him.

 

The heads are not on the block so presurizing the cooling system is out, at lease untill I get the long block back together. Just looking to see if there is a way to test the cups with the heads removed.

 

Boisebiker: You are close to being able to post pictures. When you can, would you mind posting pictures of the grease hose adapter you made to do the compression test and well as a parts list?

 

This is the instructions that I used: Homemade Compression Adapter... - Diesel Bombers
I will take a picture and post as soon as I can.

 

Went and dropped off the block today. Talking with the shop owner gave me lots of information. Did you know we could resleeve a powerstroke block, even the older IDI blocks? My crank and camshafts looked good so no work there. I have to wait until he can get to the block before I can order the rebuild kit, we have to see how deep the score marks are. The bearing showed normal wear so just put a new set in and we are ready to go. We spent more time looking at my Duramax Yukon than my Powerstroke block.

 

Dunno how this one has slipped by me for so long...
Good read so far.
Very anxious to see your lifting jig. Dont fret too much about the engine stand...
I have one sitting on the 750lb capacity T base stand right now... it was complete when it was bolted to the stand and have it mostly stripped with the pass. Side head off... as visible in the pics in the thread Tim posted a link to.

150-200 to bore a block isnt too bad... kinda gives me a little hope for humanity...

Its been a long, looong ... very hot day... im sure i had more to say but it has escaped the thought bubble...

 

Boisebiker: Holy friggin' Moly!!! You know there is something that I actually have knowledge about and it is something that you need to look into before you hook up your fresh engine to that old fuel tank. Seriously Dude! See:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-tank.html

and see:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-strainer.html

and see:

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/vie...hp?f=3&t=10572

I am kinda a one note wonder on this issue with the E Series, and the F450s and the F550s, which all have the steel fuel tanks (the F250s and F350s have plastic tanks).

PS: It is great that Chris is aware of your thread. (He is one of the engine rebuild guru guys here at FTE.)

It is actually the one thing that I have first hand knowledge of.

 

I am just a young padawan learner. but I am a fellow Van guy.

 

The fuel tank is the next item on my list of to dos. Now if I can just figure out how to post pics, well this one is #26 so hopefully soon.

 

Guess I am kind of bumb, could post pics all along just didn't ready enough to figure it out. Well lets start with the engine hoist adapter. I saw this online with help from you guys. It is made out of 2x2x1/4 square tubing and some flat plate. Nothing fancy but very effective. The chain was rubbing the top of the engine bay as the oil pan cleared the suspension cross member.

 

Below the "Quick Reply" box, click "Go Advanced," click "Manage Attachments," browse to the location on your hard drive, double click your jpeg file, click upload.

If it doesn't upload, it is likely because it is too big. So best to take your pictures on the low quality setting on your camera. Or use your camera software (mine is Olympus Viewer 3) to open the jpeg and save it as a lower quality file and then upload that.

I made the mistake of scanning the manual pages in 600 dpi instead of 150 or 200 dpi so it took some creative editing to get the pdf's down to an uploadable file size.

 

That is very cool. (I just bought some turnbuckles today with appliance feet on one end and an eyelet on the other to push the muffler away from and to remove the catalytic converter on my Bronco.)

But it looks like magic. Why isn't the engine falling down?

1. You didn't have to remove the motor mounts to remove the engine?

2. Does the bottom of your engine hoist adapter carry weight from the crank shaft pulley or does it just center the engine to stop it from spinning to the side?

3. Are the turnbuckles stopping the engine from sliding down because the water pump pulley is pinned against the ramp angle of the adapter such that the water pump pulley is taking all the aft/forward weight?

Sketches must be posted!