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I had my reputable local trans shop go through my trans and freshen up. I also had them install a transgo tugger kit, transgo line boost valve, and triple disc converter. It acts normally other than the shifts are hard going up, and even shifting down when flooring it and it kicks down. I have even made the holes smaller in the shift plate. Even smaller than the way the plate comes. I also have tuning backed off -50psi on all upshifts and downshifts. The way it is now it is acceptable, except when you force a downshift while lugging around and you get on it a bit. Having said that, it still should not need this much reduction. Not sure if the tugger kit along with boost valve is the culprit?
Possible but I am not a trans expert but found this
Common Causes & Fixes
Binding or Cocked Valves: The new TransGo boost valve or pressure regulator valve is likely binding in its bore. If the valve train ***** even slightly, the valve will stick and continuously command maximum line pressure.
Fix: Disassemble the valve body, remove the PR valve train, and carefully inspect the aluminum bore for scoring or wear. Check that all parts move freely in the bore before reinstalling the valve body. [
Reversed Springs: Installing the new pressure regulator spring or isolator spring backward or stacking them incorrectly causes coil bind. This forces the valve into the max-pressure position.
Fix: Double-check the TransGo instructions to ensure the inner/outer spring sequence and washer placement match the diagram exactly. [
Stator Support / Pump Gasket Issues: If the front pump was removed and reassembled improperly, a misaligned gasket or damaged seal will block oil passages, creating dead-headed pressure.
Fix: Ensure the pump halves are properly torqued and that no gaskets are protruding to obstruct hydraulic fluid flow.
I had my reputable local trans shop go through my trans and freshen up. I also had them install a transgo tugger kit, transgo line boost valve, and triple disc converter. It acts normally other than the shifts are hard going up, and even shifting down when flooring it and it kicks down. I have even made the holes smaller in the shift plate. Even smaller than the way the plate comes. I also have tuning backed off -50psi on all upshifts and downshifts. The way it is now it is acceptable, except when you force a downshift while lugging around and you get on it a bit. Having said that, it still should not need this much reduction. Not sure if the tugger kit along with boost valve is the culprit?
I always start on the smallest feed holes in the plate for firmness...suggest doing the same as you have bumped line pressure making firmer shifts, firmer accumulator springs, and a low stall converter. All of which are making the shifts harsh
Is the PCM tune stock? I would call TG's tech line and order a new plate then toss in as-is once acquired
Thanks everyone. I did find a step that was missed in the install. The 2 holes drilled in the valve body were not done. I did that and now things are better.
I am working with a tuner and have been playing with pressures.
Now that the mistake is fixed I have put the holes in the shift plate back to where they were "stock" or the size they were when I received the transgo kit. And where the tuner has the pressures now, the shifting is way better. Especially the upshifts. The thing that I'm trying to sort out now is the 4-3 downshift when getting on it real hard. That downshift is fairly hard. But is that because the e40d is an on/off lockup? And the downshift and converter unlock happen at the same time? Does the low stall converter play into it?
Loose gasser converters soften shifts too, lower stall tend to do the opposite in my experience. Aftermarket friction material engages different and some require more line pressure to apply fast enough to not burn.
This is all a balancing act now and start with base pressure tables for the trans for tuning, you should not need it increased via the PCM to sort this as it is mechanically increased. Too much can cause hard part failure
I would also find out when the TCC is locking now, I am guessing if in second gear then 2-3 and 3-4 will be firmer somewhat.
Welcome to the world of built transmissions with aftermarket parts trying to mix
The thing that I'm trying to sort out now is the 4-3 downshift when getting on it real hard. That downshift is fairly hard. But is that because the e40d is an on/off lockup? And the downshift and converter unlock happen at the same time? Does the low stall converter play into it?
If this only happens on a power on 4-3, I would guess that the problem is the torque converter is not unlocking during the shift. It does unlock with the stock program, but all the aftermarket things could change that.
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Aftermarket friction material engages different and some require more line pressure to apply fast enough to not burn.
On a power on 4-3, there is no friction material engaging. All that happens on a power on 4-3 shift is the overdrive clutch releases.
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