E40D hard shifting
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 169
Likes: 45
E40D hard shifting
I had my reputable local trans shop go through my trans and freshen up. I also had them install a transgo tugger kit, transgo line boost valve, and triple disc converter. It acts normally other than the shifts are hard going up, and even shifting down when flooring it and it kicks down. I have even made the holes smaller in the shift plate. Even smaller than the way the plate comes. I also have tuning backed off -50psi on all upshifts and downshifts. The way it is now it is acceptable, except when you force a downshift while lugging around and you get on it a bit. Having said that, it still should not need this much reduction. Not sure if the tugger kit along with boost valve is the culprit?
I have pressure tested and is as follows;
----------------------@ idle ------------------------@ STALL
_____________RANGE ____TESTED__________RANGE_____ TEST
P OR N_______ 55-70________ 90_____________ N/A________ N/A
REVERSE____ 75-130_______ 110___________ 240-265______ 320
DRIVE_______ 55-70_________ 90___________ 156-174______ 200
M2__________ 55-70_________ 90___________ 156-174______ 200
M1__________ 79-99________ 110___________ 157-186______ 240
I have pressure tested and is as follows;
----------------------@ idle ------------------------@ STALL
_____________RANGE ____TESTED__________RANGE_____ TEST
P OR N_______ 55-70________ 90_____________ N/A________ N/A
REVERSE____ 75-130_______ 110___________ 240-265______ 320
DRIVE_______ 55-70_________ 90___________ 156-174______ 200
M2__________ 55-70_________ 90___________ 156-174______ 200
M1__________ 79-99________ 110___________ 157-186______ 240
Last edited by Klutch5000; May 26, 2026 at 07:20 AM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,222
Likes: 1,343
From: Bahstun
Possible but I am not a trans expert but found this
Common Causes & Fixes
Common Causes & Fixes
- Binding or Cocked Valves: The new TransGo boost valve or pressure regulator valve is likely binding in its bore. If the valve train ***** even slightly, the valve will stick and continuously command maximum line pressure.
- Fix: Disassemble the valve body, remove the PR valve train, and carefully inspect the aluminum bore for scoring or wear. Check that all parts move freely in the bore before reinstalling the valve body. [
, 2]
- Fix: Disassemble the valve body, remove the PR valve train, and carefully inspect the aluminum bore for scoring or wear. Check that all parts move freely in the bore before reinstalling the valve body. [
- Reversed Springs: Installing the new pressure regulator spring or isolator spring backward or stacking them incorrectly causes coil bind. This forces the valve into the max-pressure position.
- Fix: Double-check the TransGo instructions to ensure the inner/outer spring sequence and washer placement match the diagram exactly. [
]
- Fix: Double-check the TransGo instructions to ensure the inner/outer spring sequence and washer placement match the diagram exactly. [
- Stator Support / Pump Gasket Issues: If the front pump was removed and reassembled improperly, a misaligned gasket or damaged seal will block oil passages, creating dead-headed pressure.
- Fix: Ensure the pump halves are properly torqued and that no gaskets are protruding to obstruct hydraulic fluid flow.
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,739
Likes: 2,669
From: SE Florida
I had my reputable local trans shop go through my trans and freshen up. I also had them install a transgo tugger kit, transgo line boost valve, and triple disc converter. It acts normally other than the shifts are hard going up, and even shifting down when flooring it and it kicks down. I have even made the holes smaller in the shift plate. Even smaller than the way the plate comes. I also have tuning backed off -50psi on all upshifts and downshifts. The way it is now it is acceptable, except when you force a downshift while lugging around and you get on it a bit. Having said that, it still should not need this much reduction. Not sure if the tugger kit along with boost valve is the culprit?
I have pressure tested and is as follows;
----------------------@ idle ------------------------@ STALL
_____________RANGE ____TESTED__________RANGE_____ TEST
P OR N_______ 55-70________ 90_____________ N/A________ N/A
REVERSE____ 75-130_______ 110___________ 240-265______ 320
DRIVE_______ 55-70_________ 90___________ 156-174______ 200
M2__________ 55-70_________ 90___________ 156-174______ 200
M1__________ 79-99________ 110___________ 157-186______ 240
I have pressure tested and is as follows;
----------------------@ idle ------------------------@ STALL
_____________RANGE ____TESTED__________RANGE_____ TEST
P OR N_______ 55-70________ 90_____________ N/A________ N/A
REVERSE____ 75-130_______ 110___________ 240-265______ 320
DRIVE_______ 55-70_________ 90___________ 156-174______ 200
M2__________ 55-70_________ 90___________ 156-174______ 200
M1__________ 79-99________ 110___________ 157-186______ 240
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,573
Likes: 2,038
From: North Texas
I always start on the smallest feed holes in the plate for firmness...suggest doing the same as you have bumped line pressure making firmer shifts, firmer accumulator springs, and a low stall converter. All of which are making the shifts harsh
Is the PCM tune stock? I would call TG's tech line and order a new plate then toss in as-is once acquired
Is the PCM tune stock? I would call TG's tech line and order a new plate then toss in as-is once acquired
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 169
Likes: 45
Thanks everyone. I did find a step that was missed in the install. The 2 holes drilled in the valve body were not done. I did that and now things are better.
I am working with a tuner and have been playing with pressures.
Now that the mistake is fixed I have put the holes in the shift plate back to where they were "stock" or the size they were when I received the transgo kit. And where the tuner has the pressures now, the shifting is way better. Especially the upshifts. The thing that I'm trying to sort out now is the 4-3 downshift when getting on it real hard. That downshift is fairly hard. But is that because the e40d is an on/off lockup? And the downshift and converter unlock happen at the same time? Does the low stall converter play into it?
I am working with a tuner and have been playing with pressures.
Now that the mistake is fixed I have put the holes in the shift plate back to where they were "stock" or the size they were when I received the transgo kit. And where the tuner has the pressures now, the shifting is way better. Especially the upshifts. The thing that I'm trying to sort out now is the 4-3 downshift when getting on it real hard. That downshift is fairly hard. But is that because the e40d is an on/off lockup? And the downshift and converter unlock happen at the same time? Does the low stall converter play into it?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,399
Likes: 870
From: Mi'kma'ki
I have a extra low stall converters in both of my IDI trucks and I don't have super firm up or downshifts. Go over everything carefully.
The Installation Of Transgo's 'Tugger' Reprogramming Kit (Shift Kit For HD Hauling & Towing)
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 169
Likes: 45
I have a extra low stall converters in both of my IDI trucks and I don't have super firm up or downshifts. Go over everything carefully.
The Installation Of Transgo's 'Tugger' Reprogramming Kit (Shift Kit For HD Hauling & Towing)
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,573
Likes: 2,038
From: North Texas
Loose gasser converters soften shifts too, lower stall tend to do the opposite in my experience. Aftermarket friction material engages different and some require more line pressure to apply fast enough to not burn.
This is all a balancing act now and start with base pressure tables for the trans for tuning, you should not need it increased via the PCM to sort this as it is mechanically increased. Too much can cause hard part failure
I would also find out when the TCC is locking now, I am guessing if in second gear then 2-3 and 3-4 will be firmer somewhat.
Welcome to the world of built transmissions with aftermarket parts trying to mix
This is all a balancing act now and start with base pressure tables for the trans for tuning, you should not need it increased via the PCM to sort this as it is mechanically increased. Too much can cause hard part failure
I would also find out when the TCC is locking now, I am guessing if in second gear then 2-3 and 3-4 will be firmer somewhat.
Welcome to the world of built transmissions with aftermarket parts trying to mix
Last edited by Hit Man X; Jun 3, 2026 at 08:04 AM.
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Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,739
Likes: 2,669
From: SE Florida
The thing that I'm trying to sort out now is the 4-3 downshift when getting on it real hard. That downshift is fairly hard. But is that because the e40d is an on/off lockup? And the downshift and converter unlock happen at the same time? Does the low stall converter play into it?
On a power on 4-3, there is no friction material engaging. All that happens on a power on 4-3 shift is the overdrive clutch releases.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 169
Likes: 45
I believe I have everything correct in the trans now.
I tried some tunes I had from before from another tuner and not sure if they use a different strategy or not but now the power on 4-3 downshift is perfect.
I have 2 sets of these tunes, one for transgo VB and one for stock VB. So I currently have the shift plate at stock hole sizes which is smaller than where TG recommends to start. But with the tune for the stock VB the shifts are pretty good. Sometimes the 3-4 at wot does funny things, kinda starts to shift, then thinks about it for a second, then completes the shift. But more often it shifts properly. Any ideas there?
Would I be better to enlarge the holes as TG suggests and run tuning accordingly? Or would there be any benefit over how I have it now as stated above?
I tried some tunes I had from before from another tuner and not sure if they use a different strategy or not but now the power on 4-3 downshift is perfect.
I have 2 sets of these tunes, one for transgo VB and one for stock VB. So I currently have the shift plate at stock hole sizes which is smaller than where TG recommends to start. But with the tune for the stock VB the shifts are pretty good. Sometimes the 3-4 at wot does funny things, kinda starts to shift, then thinks about it for a second, then completes the shift. But more often it shifts properly. Any ideas there?
Would I be better to enlarge the holes as TG suggests and run tuning accordingly? Or would there be any benefit over how I have it now as stated above?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,573
Likes: 2,038
From: North Texas
Appreciate the input, Mark! An Alto engineer told me be careful with static versus dynamic clutches...had to look that up and educate myself.
Why my 5R110W shifted like a brute wirh Red Eagles and triple disc, low stall from PI. They needed they extra *** to not slide into gear. Above my GS rating for sure .
I am no trans wiz/hyd engineer I can build my own and such but the design is totally incredible.
Do appreciate all your info.
Why my 5R110W shifted like a brute wirh Red Eagles and triple disc, low stall from PI. They needed they extra *** to not slide into gear. Above my GS rating for sure .
I am no trans wiz/hyd engineer I can build my own and such but the design is totally incredible.
Do appreciate all your info.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,399
Likes: 870
From: Mi'kma'ki
I believe I have everything correct in the trans now.
I tried some tunes I had from before from another tuner and not sure if they use a different strategy or not but now the power on 4-3 downshift is perfect.
I have 2 sets of these tunes, one for transgo VB and one for stock VB. So I currently have the shift plate at stock hole sizes which is smaller than where TG recommends to start. But with the tune for the stock VB the shifts are pretty good. Sometimes the 3-4 at wot does funny things, kinda starts to shift, then thinks about it for a second, then completes the shift. But more often it shifts properly. Any ideas there?
Would I be better to enlarge the holes as TG suggests and run tuning accordingly? Or would there be any benefit over how I have it now as stated above?
I tried some tunes I had from before from another tuner and not sure if they use a different strategy or not but now the power on 4-3 downshift is perfect.
I have 2 sets of these tunes, one for transgo VB and one for stock VB. So I currently have the shift plate at stock hole sizes which is smaller than where TG recommends to start. But with the tune for the stock VB the shifts are pretty good. Sometimes the 3-4 at wot does funny things, kinda starts to shift, then thinks about it for a second, then completes the shift. But more often it shifts properly. Any ideas there?
Would I be better to enlarge the holes as TG suggests and run tuning accordingly? Or would there be any benefit over how I have it now as stated above?
Well, in fact your results prove this, so.
The lazy 3-4 shift could be something as simple as a bad spot in your TPS (though it "should" set a code) if it's a worn bore in the accumulator body, you'll need to repair it with this:
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2107-3-...trol-valve-kit
Or of course just replace the accumulator body.
Last edited by FORDF250HDXLT; Jun 4, 2026 at 07:24 PM.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 169
Likes: 45
I think it wise to do as Transgo suggests, rather than let a tune of the ECM increase line pressure electronically. If you have a way to tune just the engine and leave the trans alone, make the adjustment with the shift kit, it's best.
Well, in fact your results prove this, so.
The lazy 3-4 shift could be something as simple as a bad spot in your TPS (though it "should" set a code) if it's a worn bore in the accumulator body, you'll need to repair it with this:
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2107-3-...trol-valve-kit
Or of course just replace the accumulator body.
Well, in fact your results prove this, so.
The lazy 3-4 shift could be something as simple as a bad spot in your TPS (though it "should" set a code) if it's a worn bore in the accumulator body, you'll need to repair it with this:
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2107-3-...trol-valve-kit
Or of course just replace the accumulator body.
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