When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
...and in all my time wrenching on brand X rot boxes up here in the rust belt never have I had the issues I've had with Ford. Is this normal? I snapped two bell housing bolts, multiple intake bolts, rounded three motor mount bolts and needed a four foot pry bar with heat to remove the distributor. Absolutely nuts. Everywhere a steel bolt came in contact with aluminum it was oxidized in place. It was only through the generosity of a complete stranger at the yard (Thanks Ralph!) who happened to have pry bars and hammers were we able to separate the E4OD from the engine block. After I got it home the cherry on top was the distributor being one with the block.
That's typical engine rust for 4x4 plow trucks here in the Rustbelt! - and even some of the more regularly winter driven trucks. You guys in non-snow areas don't know how bad we have it here...
It looks like at least one of the water pump bolts snapped off - those on the top center are a PITA since they thread into the aluminum timing cover and have through-holes... same goes for the end intake manifold bolts - I see at least the two on the front broke off in the heads...
Sometimes things in the scrap yard should just stay in the scrap yard. I just bought a1984 Arizona F250 and not a single stuck bolt. Broken valve spring, and almost no brakes, but virtually no rust.
Inside of the motor looked fairly clean with no significant sludge build ups. First thing we did was pop the valve covers, plugs and roll it over before attempting to pull it out. I got it to the machine shop last night and on the shelf they had a set of alloy heads they rebuilt for a good price, so I told the guy I'd buy them too. All that is getting used out of this is the short block now. That timing cover might get replaced. Need to find an intake still as well. Fun stuff.
My junk yard engine was pulled by the yard. For $50 more, it was well worth it. Because there was water in it, it was sold as a core. The engine did turn which was important to me. I got the 'core' for $200. I was expecting to pay $1000 for a roller engine, I think I made out fine. All of the parts are ready to make it a 408 as well as the machine work.
I paid $300 for it and that was only because I wasn't able to strip it down far enough. Even if it wouldn't have fought me there wasn't enough time - that yard runs on banker's hours. Honestly, I probably should have looked a bit longer, but these motors are getting hard to come by around here anymore.
Plan is for a mild build with a slightly hotter than stock cam that runs on 87. The machine shop has a set of Pro Comp alloy heads they rebuilt for $800, so those are going on with an Edelbrock Performer, Holley Sniper and SS shorty headers. Nothing crazy.
