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trying to remove my intake to replace a couple pushrods that were bent and all the lifters.
took out 8 bolts from the intake. that's all the bolts, right? there's a larger bolt at the back DS corner but I'm not sure if it's going into the block or just a mounting point for a bracket.
looks like the dizzy might be in the way but wanted to see if intake will come out and reinstall without having to remove it. It would be more convenient not to have to find TDC and re-advance the dizzy if I didn't have to.
The hold-down bracket is way down there, and not sure how to remove it. Do I need to remove the AC motor? seems like that is in the way of getting to the bolt, or can I reach it w/ a wobbler?
Also smacked the intake w/ a small sledge, tried prying off with a scraper/screwdriver and still won't budge. I'm assuming it's been RTV'd on or rusted in place.
I was thinking a lift plate on the carb bolts and an engine hoist would do the trick but wanted to see if others had ideas.
There are still 4 in the middle - two on either side of the carb mounting flange.
Oh, and just pull out the distributor. Mark the housing where the rotor points when it's out and put it back in starting there...it'll rotate to the correct position as long as you don't rotate the engine.
thanks. I'll get those other 4 smaller bolts.
any recs on how to get to the dizzy hold-down bolt? Not sure if it's accessible without removing the AC compressor motor.
X2 on it is WAY easier to pull the distributor. Make it and pull it, do not turn over motor. X3 get an actual "distributor wrench" or just make one out of a old box end wrench and a little heat up and bent trick. Not sure about the a/c bracket, you might be able to leave all the a/c lines ect...connected, just unbolt the bracket and move it and the compressor over a bit.
Another reason to remove the dizzy is come time to reinstall the intake you want to be able to set it straight down. Not have to slide it under the distributor. That will roll your S gaskets....that you should not use any way.
Clean both mating surfaces, get some of "The right stuff" RTV and made the S gaskets. The rubber S one will roll on you and leak like crazy. And you will be doing this job again.
That thing is heavy, so use a cherry picker or use a piece of pipe and some chain with the carb studs and 2 people can pull it WAY easier.
Thanks guys. Bought a distributor wrench on Amazon last night and will stab the dizzy back in with rotor pointing in the same direction at the end. I also bought a lift plate for the carb studs and plan on using a hoist. I’ll throw out the S gasket and build my own with “the right stuff”. Do I need to be putting any RTV on any other parts of the intake/gaskets or on the valley pan?
The bigger question is why are the pushrods bent ?
that is a good question. I need to do some more digging. this truck was a mud truck so not sure if the PO revved RPMs up at some point or if there's a sticky valve. Both #1 rods (intake/exhaust) are bent/broken. I was able to remove 1.5 rods through the head with a magnet and also one of the lifters, that was broken (missing the mounting "perch" where the pushrod sits in the center). I was hoping to get more answers once I get the intake off.
I plan on replacing all the lifters, replacing any bent rods, and looking for any sticky valves on #1.
any other thoughts?
Putting new lifters on an old camshaft is dicey at best. I would get an inspection camera and look in the sparkplug holes to see if the pistons are damaged before doing the lifters or pushrods personally. It really sounds like pulling this engine and going through it is a warranted action.
FYI for guys who do this in the future, a good offset box wrench can work very well as a poor man’s distributor wrench. You should have a set of them anyway. They can be a lifesaver. This is a cheap set on Amazon.
Putting new lifters on an old camshaft is dicey at best. I would get an inspection camera and look in the sparkplug holes to see if the pistons are damaged before doing the lifters or pushrods personally. It really sounds like pulling this engine and going through it is a warranted action.
Ugggh. this is what I was hoping NOT to do. I'll take a look. I have a borescope. what should be looking for? damage to the top of the piston from the valves hitting it? honestly, if I'm pulling the engine I might be more inclined to swap it out with a running one from craigslist or FB marketplace for a few hundred $$s.
This truck wasn't meant to be a daily driver or even a mud truck. I just wanted to something I could zip around town in and maybe make some hardware/lumber yard store runs in, as well as something to wrench on.
